Granite Top - Steel City Saw - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 26 Old 06-19-2008, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Granite Top - Steel City Saw

I'm about ready to buy my first table saw and just about settled on the Steel City which is available with a granite top. Other than the obvious no rust idea what may other advantages be to granite. I really don't have any rust issues in my shop or area (California). I actually can think of a disadvantage in case for some odd reason I wanted to tap a threaded hole into the table top. Any thoughts on other advantages to the granite top?
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post #2 of 26 Old 06-19-2008, 09:07 PM
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Easy, Granite is WAY easier to break..
Carbon steel miter gague rails will eventually wear miter slots out...

Are you serious? They offer a granite table saw top? That is taking using granite for new uses to an entirely new level.

Interested in my woodworking, workshop and whatnot? See http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com, want to see my other interests such as hunting, fishing, off roading, and camping? See http://wildersport-outdoors.blogspot.com
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post #3 of 26 Old 06-20-2008, 06:11 AM
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I looked at a Steel City granite and was unimpressed with the finish on the granite surface. I expected a glasslike finish like my kitchen countertops. It wasn't. And the miter slots looked rougher than the top surface. On the saw I looked at - good idea, not so good implementation.
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post #4 of 26 Old 06-24-2008, 05:45 PM
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I just wonder what happens when someone gets a broken top. I would not trust UPS or any truck carrier to get a new granite top to me without more damage.
As far as granite tops on bandsaws that seems like a bit much to me. Even the jointer fences, I think most manufacturers can get a jointer fence flat.
I dont think this will be a trend that Delta or anyone else will be going to any day soon.
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post #5 of 26 Old 06-25-2008, 04:31 AM
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Extra! Extra! .. Read all about it!

http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/...our+World.aspx

http://www.steelcitytoolworks.com/pr...12&tool=35905G

Last edited by Davet; 06-25-2008 at 04:37 AM.
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post #6 of 26 Old 06-25-2008, 04:43 AM
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Don't like Granite?
How about a Titanium top!

http://www.steelcitytoolworks.com/pr...=12&tool=35630
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post #7 of 26 Old 06-27-2008, 08:20 PM
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me too!!!

i just placed an order today for the 10", 3.0HP, 30" table, Cast Iron top Steel City
i too have been eyeing this saw for months waiting for it to become available. the reason i opted for the Cast top over the Granite is because Cast Iron is magnetic so magnetic featherboards and hold-downs will work with it.
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post #8 of 26 Old 07-02-2008, 08:39 PM
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Blankcek, what did you end up going with?
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post #9 of 26 Old 02-23-2010, 02:12 PM
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Steel City Table Saw w/ Granite Top

I just bought the 35920 and just love it! The added weight of the Granite just adds to the stability of the unit. And Quiet!!! I have been using a Craftsman Job site saw for the last 10 years and I now know what I've been missing.
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post #10 of 26 Old 02-23-2010, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vikingstar View Post
I just bought the 35920 and just love it! The added weight of the Granite just adds to the stability of the unit. And Quiet!!! I have been using a Craftsman Job site saw for the last 10 years and I now know what I've been missing.
I am just a DIYr who has always wanted a decent saw and got one last month. It is almost the same as yours; the Rigid R4511. You will love it.

Actually, your saw offers a few options not available on the Rigid model, I believe. A low profile riving knife, the standard motor you got may be a 1 3/4 HP and the Rigid is 1 1/2. I believe yours either comes with or you can get a one piece front rail from Steel City. Some Rigid owners have been fabricating their own out of 2x2 tubing.

I only talked myself into the Rigid because it was on a close out sale for $299 less a $25 discount I got for opening a charge account.

BTW, Sears also has a granite top. All three are supposedly made by a Steel City (Orion?) affiliate.

The thing about the R4511 and I imagine yours is blade selection is more important due to the smaller motors. I still can't decide on going with a thin kerf 40T WWII or a less expensive ripper and cross cut blade.
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post #11 of 26 Old 02-24-2010, 06:29 AM
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Anybody notice that this thread is over two years old?

G
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post #12 of 26 Old 02-24-2010, 07:05 AM
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That's alright, I've always been a little behind the curve.
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post #13 of 26 Old 02-24-2010, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klawman View Post
I...The thing about the R4511 and I imagine yours is blade selection is more important due to the smaller motors. I still can't decide on going with a thin kerf 40T WWII or a less expensive ripper and cross cut blade.
This blog article might help you decide.
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post #14 of 26 Old 02-24-2010, 04:12 PM
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I have the TK Forrest WWII on my R4511 and it works very well. A little pricey, but extremely smooth cuts on everything I've thrown at it. Great all-around blade.
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post #15 of 26 Old 02-25-2010, 04:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knotscott View Post
This blog article might help you decide.
Thanks, Knottscott. I have read your blog several times before and it is very helpful. It has helped me to at least decide to go with a TK. As for the high end GP vs good dedicated rip and crosscut blades. I still have to make up my mind. I may wait to let the first major project dictate the decision. (They will probably be furniture grade shelving, followed by a coffee table, then kitchen cabinets. This will be my first attempt at quality word working and I am thinking of something like cherry.) That or if I run across an incredible deal, like buying the R4511 for $299.
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post #16 of 26 Old 02-25-2010, 08:44 AM
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Love my Ridgid... quiet, solid, smooth and was cheap... although, I didn't get in on the $299 close out... Your saw will just be better...
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post #17 of 26 Old 03-24-2010, 03:48 PM
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My Home Depot had one of those Ridgid, granite top saws on sale for $299 a couple months ago. I was hating I missed it because someone beat me to the punch by a few hours. Then I saw where those saws were recalled due to the arbor failing and letting a dado blade come flying out of the table. Three people had apparently got cut up from this.

Here's the link where I read this.
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/9764

Last edited by The Engineer; 03-24-2010 at 03:51 PM. Reason: added link
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post #18 of 26 Old 03-25-2010, 01:29 AM
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No injuries reported

Where does anything say that anyone got cut up. I saw where the recall notice said that "One World Technologies has received three reports of shafts failing when used with a stacked dado set. No injuries have been reported."

http://www.ridgid.com/Download/R4511_PR.pdf
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post #19 of 26 Old 03-27-2010, 02:49 AM
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I have worked with surface plates for years, they are somewhat similar to a saw table top.

Steel:
Durable, won't crack, will bend if it is thin, will dent, rusts, needs constant upkeep if not painted. If the steel rusts or gets dented, you will need to stone the top.

Granite:
Durable, will crack if it is thin, will not bend, will chip if metal objects are dropped on it, will not rust, does not dent, easy to clean, less upkeep overall.

I would rather have granite, if I could afford it. Even if it chips, it will just make a little divot on the top, but it will still be usable. You never have to oil or wax a granite top either. Both are a pain to lap, steel tops can be taken to a machine shop. Granite could probably be taken to a place that manufactures surface plates, possibly Starrett(?), and they will be VERY costly. A calibration facility would only be able to take off a tenth at best. I doubt the home user would ever need a granite top lapped.

Last edited by cheese9988; 03-27-2010 at 02:52 AM.
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post #20 of 26 Old 03-27-2010, 06:15 AM
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Granite does not like sharp blows. Hit it hard and it will break.

In my garage space is limited. Frequently the top of my saw doubles as an assembly area. This past week it was being used as an assembly point for the pullouts I was making for my kitchen cabinets.

Many times dovetail joints need a sharp blow from a rubber hammer to go together. I was resting the pieces on the top of the saw when I was applying this blow. If the top of the saw had of been granite there is a good chance it would have broken.

It is very little bother to periodically spray down the top with WD-40 or other good spray and then clean it with steel wool. The top of my saw has stayed in good condition over 25 years with this treatment.

George
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