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got my new tablesaw.

5K views 26 replies 12 participants last post by  garryswf 
#1 ·
Awhile back I posted asking for advice on table saws and then decided on grizzlys G1023SLW.
Just wanted to let everyone know i got the money for it and now its here and together.


(sorry for the bad pictures. my camera died and all i have is the webcam on my laptop.)

I'm still playing around with lining the splitter up to the blade and it looks like i'm going to have to adjudge the arbor to do so.

Thanks to everyone who advised me to get this one. I think I'm going to enjoy using it.
 
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#2 ·
Hold on there Dude!

Let's make sure that the blade is parallel to the miter gauge slots.
If you have a steel graduated ruler say 12"or longer, place it between the blade and the right hand slot and try to get it either touching the teeth the same way or missing all the teeth and in the gullets, blade full up. Measure over to the miter slot from the right side of the straight edge front and rear without moving it, use magnets or tape it to the table if need be, securely up against the blade. You can use a calipers or another straight edge or a pair of dividers. What do you see? Two different measurements or is it the same front and rear? By using a 12" or longer, straight edge you get more of a pronounced indication of the parallism or lack there of between the two. If the measurements are different then you must bring the trunnions into alignment with the miter slot, by loosening 3 bolts and pivoting on the one that is indicated. This is tricky and may require several attempts. This proceedure may or may not be covered in the owner's manual. There are different ways but like I said the longer straight edge will show the difference more readily.
:thumbsup: bill
 
#4 ·
Thanks.

Bill it did line up.
According to the instructions the only thing left to try adjusting to make the splitter line up with the blade was the arbor. And to do that the table (and everything with it. ) needed to come back off.
I did it but just starter putting it back together. Still have to recheck everything again before putting the router table and rails back on.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Bizzare!

Thanks.

Bill it did line up.
According to the instructions the only thing left to try adjusting to make the splitter line up with the blade was the arbor. And to do that the table (and everything with it. ) needed to come back off.
I did it but just starter putting it back together. Still have to recheck everything again before putting the router table and rails back on.
Sixteen GA:
That is a basackwards way if I ever heard one. Why can't the splitter be shimmed right or left, or front or rear to center it on the blade? What good will shifting the arbor do, except throw off the parallelism to the slots? Am I missing something here, or just an oldphart?:blink: bill
 
#6 ·
I posted this method under tips in case you need it

Let's make sure that the blade is parallel to the miter gage slots.
If you have a steel graduated ruler say 12"or longer, place it between the blade and the right hand slot and try to get it either touching the teeth the same way or missing all the teeth and in the gullets, blade full up. Measure over to the miter slot from the right side of the straight edge front and rear without moving it, use magnets or tape it to the table if need be, securely up against the blade. You can use a calipers or another straight edge or a pair of dividers. What do you see? Two different measurements or is it the same front and rear? By using a 12" or longer, straight edge you get more of a pronounced indication of the parallelism or lack there of between the two. If the measurements are different then you must bring the trunnions into alignment with the miter slot, by loosening 3 bolts and pivoting on the one that is indicated. This is tricky and may require several attempts. This procedure may or may not be covered in the owner's manual. There are different ways but like I said the longer straight edge will show the difference more readily.
:thumbsup: bill
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#9 ·
Bill may be right, you may want to recheck the procedure for aligning the spliter. I think I used washers to shim mine one way or the other (for the short time I had it on there). The splitter is a good safety feature but I was constantly taking it off to cut shallow grooves. I finally got tired of reinstalling it. Other than the splitter, you'll love the saw.

And, please don't kick me off the forum because I don't use the splitter and guard.
 
#22 ·
Bill may be right, you may want to recheck the procedure for aligning the spliter. I think I used washers to shim mine one way or the other (for the short time I had it on there). The splitter is a good safety feature but I was constantly taking it off to cut shallow grooves. I finally got tired of reinstalling it. Other than the splitter, you'll love the saw.

And, please don't kick me off the forum because I don't use the splitter and guard.

On mu Unisaw, I made a bunch of zero clearance inserts for the blades, and on a couple of them, I included a splitter, that is attashed to the insert. It doesn't work with a tilted blade, but when I need it out of the way, I just lift the insert out and replace it with one that doesn't have the splitter.
Easy and fast.
 
#11 · (Edited)
thanks guys.

Sleeper the router table was a big plus. I Could have got the saw a bit cheaper without it but i just got a new router that won't fit my old table.


As for adjusting the arbor I couldn't move the splitter in the needed direction any farther. The splitter was right up against the bracket it attaches to inside the saw.

The arbor rides on a shaft with a nut to loosen it and let it slide back and forth. According to the instructions if this happens that's the only way to line them up.
Now I should be able to shim it normally if its off.
 
#12 ·
Glad you got it figured out...

I still trying to figure out "couldn't move the fence in the needed direction any farther" and what that has to do with aligning or centering the splitter on the blade...oh, well. :blink: bill
 
#15 · (Edited)
ATTENTION! Splitters must be used or else...

you will be "kicked back" to another forum! Read this post I made re KICKBACK:
Kickback, lessons learned
Most of you already know that a structured wood like plywood or MDF or other manufactured sheet goods "generally speaking" will not close up behind the blade, the cause of most kickbacks, because they are stable. Other "natural" woods, like pine and oaks MAY close up the kerf behind the blade and pinch and kick back.This is called "reaction wood" where the stress in the wood is releived and the wood closes up or opens up, neither of which is good when ripping. Therefore, use a splitter or riving knife which ever works or fits when ripping lumber off trees and when sawing sheet goods it's not "necessary". Don't get me wrong I've had plywood kick back from operator error, but not from the above condition. I was looking at my "welders leather apron" the other day and thought what a great shop apron for table saw duty, especially ripping. It would provide more protection than cotton or poly, IF a kickback should occur. Ballistic nylon would be best, but the best policy is never stand directly behind a horse or a table saw when either is running! :yes:
I have NO spiltter on by sheet goods saw, a Craftsman 12" motorized, but I DO have a splitter on my 12", 5 HP Powermatic used for ripping exclusively. My first cut on that saw when it was new OOTB, was ripping a scrap of pine from a crate. (no splitter, right, you know how to rip. right?) The wood EXPLODED :censored:after it pinched the back side of the blade and shot all the way across the shop! No blood no tears, just a whole lot more RESPECT! I also use a zero clearance throat plate at all times. :yes: It helps resist the temptation to go down into the throat plate after a thin sliver gets stuck, while the blade is still spinning. :no::thumbdown: I had a kickback a few days ago, and it actually loosened the blade off the arbor, so I jambed a scrap into in after I had turned the saw off.. WOW! :eek:That was scary. Kickback occured when ripping a narrow piece against the fence wasn't pushed completely thru and pushed down as it exited the blade...overarm dust collector in the way! No Blood, no tears, just a lesson learned. :thumbsup: Move the collector out of the way, and a pressure hold down roller behind the blade might have helped. That's why I'm am passing on this rather wordy response. Bad advice is plentiful, Good advice...priceless. Off for now, Bill:smile:
 
#16 ·
Most stock splitters and guard systems are a pain, and that's why many folks don't use them. You should however at least use a splitter. Microjig makes simple splitters for as little as $20 that don't get in the way much.



The BORK is a retrofittable riving knife that fits several saws...it's more like a $100 but is even more convenient than the MJ splitter.


 
#17 ·
Well its back together. Still have to adjust the fence.

To Geoguy or anyone else with this saw. I noticed that the splitter "leg" that attaches directly behind the saw bends out to the side a bit about a half inch to 5/8s from the bottom. Is this supposed to be like this? wondering if it may be cause my problems?
 
#18 ·
16ga,
Your saw is a beaut! That is definitely one of my favorites... I'd love to hear some feed-back after a little use. Please tell us the good and bad :notworthy:.

Woodnthings has some great tuning advice. Thanks.

(A little off topic from me, 16ga... sorry)
But, I think, splitters and guards should remain the user's choice.
 
#19 ·
I think i have everything set up but the splitter. (it still won't make a real clean cut but I think thats due to my cheep blade.)

I'm thinking I might just leave it off for now and look into getting those Micro jig inserts.


I'll let you guys know how it works. I just got to put my shop back together before I can do much work.
 
#20 · (Edited)
A decent blade is mandatory for a saw that nice....setup and blade choice actually dictate the final performance. While I love the top shelves blades like the Infinity Super General ($90 +s/h), Forrest WWII, Ridge Carbide TS2000 (~ $80 shipped w/"SMC10" code), and Tenyru Gold Medal (~ $80 shipped w/"SMC10" code), you don't have to mortgage the house to get a blade that's worthy.

Midrange blades ($50-$70) - Infinity Combomax 010-050 ($55 + s/h), Amana 610504 50T ($48 shipped), Tenryu RS25550 (~ $48 shipped with "SMC10" code), Amana Prestige PR1040C, Freud LU84R011, DeWalt DW7640. These are all very good to excellent blades that perform at, or just a tad below the level of the $100 premium blades. All capable of glue ready edges, acceptable crosscuts, and ripping to ~ 2". I've not yet tried the Prestige, but I don't think twice about grabbing the Combomax, DW7640, Tenryy RS25550, or Amana 601504 over my WWII or Super General.

Good bargain blades (< $40) - Delta 35-7657 ($27 shipped), Tenryu RS25540 (< $35 shipped with "SMC10"), Oshlun 40T (~$25 shipped w/SMC10), Oshlun 50T (~ $28 shipped w/SMC10). These are also surprisingly well made blades for the price, and are all capable of glue ready edges, acceptable crosscuts, and ripping to ~ 2", though may show slighly more saw marks.

Good luck! :thumbsup:
 
#21 ·
Thanks.

I think the blade i have now is a shopfox. Think I only paid something like $20 for it.

I was getting low on money and didn't know how much more i would have to spend so I just get a cheep one with the saw.
I'm planing to pick up a dedicated rip blade and crosscut blade once i get a chance. Then the cheep blades going to be used for cutting up reclaimed wood where i might have missed a nail.
 
#24 ·
Thanks.

I think the blade i have now is a shopfox. Think I only paid something like $20 for it.

I was getting low on money and didn't know how much more i would have to spend so I just get a cheep one with the saw.
I'm planing to pick up a dedicated rip blade and crosscut blade once i get a chance. Then the cheep blades going to be used for cutting up reclaimed wood where i might have missed a nail.
If you want to try a nice crosscut blade for $65 Go to HD and pick up a Ridgid Ultimate Polished Finish 90 tooth blade. I got a used one on a ras I bought and am blown away at how smooth it cuts.
said "try" as if you don't like how it cuts, return it. I think you will keep it. I have a few other crosscut blades, that I use for general projects that are not what I call fine work. I keep that blade for the fine work. I hade a burr puzzle that was in a mag, and used Cherry, and didn't even sand the crosscuts. It would have just roughed it up!
 
#23 ·
I use the tri square also to check the alignment to the slot, but prefer to measure to a marked tooth on the blade, then turn the blade so the same tooth is at the rear and check again. This elliminates any issues with blade runnout, which a lot of blades have. Maybe not much, but some.
 
#27 ·
16Ga,
That is a great looking saw, and probably one of the best for the price. I owned one back in the late 80's and i was very happy with it. When it arrived i started unpacking and putting it together. After that i started the process of adjusting everything. I spent almost two days until i was satisfied with the performance it gave me. I think the next putchase i made for the saw was a forrest blade, best investment i made (not counting the saw purchase). And you might well know that when i installed the new blade i was not happy with the results it gave me, so i started the adjustment process all over again. End result, i could plane and edge a piece of wood for a project, run it through the table saw to get the width i wanted and not have to reedge the board because the cut i had just made on the tablesaw was as smooth as a babys bottom, no kerf marks left by the blade. One other thing, the tech support and factory service i received from Grizzly was fantastic. Good Luck and happy saw dust making. Oh, later on i purchased a beismeier (bad spelling) fence for it also.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
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