Fingerprints on my table saw - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 05-23-2013, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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Fingerprints on my table saw

I finally cleared away a few weeks of stuff that had piled up on my table saw and I noticed finger print marks all over my table. Along with that was a spot that didn't look like rust but it was definitely making a mark on my table. My question is did I do the right thing? (see following)

I first wiped it down with a dry paper towel.
Next I sprayed a section with a liberal amount of wd40.
Then I took 320 grit sand paper and wet sanded the section.
I then wiped dry with paper towels until no residue was coming off on the towel.
After the whole top was done I applied Carnuba wax to the whole thing and buffed it out.

I can still see some discoloration where the fingerprints were but I wasn't sure if redoing the steps would help or not. Should I be worried about the discoloration? What should I do different next time?
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post #2 of 6 Old 05-23-2013, 02:13 PM
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I wouldn't worry about the finger prints. If your perspiration is anything like mine it is the acid that left the finger prints. (Mine actually eats through the chrome, gold plate and gold fill on Cross pen and pencil sets. I had to buy a sterling set.)

A product like Johnsons Paste Wax, Minwax Paste Wax or Butchers Bowling Alley wax is a great protectant. These products are also a safety device. When waxed, wood slides easier and you're not fighting the friction but rather just guiding the wood through the cut.

Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
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Remember that when we have the "BIG ONE" everything east of the Rockies falls into the ocean.
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post #3 of 6 Old 05-23-2013, 02:40 PM
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This happens with many folks, including myself. Our perspiration is the culprit. We do not see at the time, but as the humidity rises, these little marks will appear.

You process is good. I would have used a finer grit, 400 or 600. Good idea to use WD40 as the wet fluid. You could use any light oil.

Most people have Johnsons Paste wax. Carnuba also is good. Can even just apply another coat of WD40 if you do not have any silicon-free wax on hand like the above references.

If you want a one step removal process, try Autosol. Tiny amount will remove these rust spots. May also be available in Autoparts stores. It seems many auto collectors like to use this to clean the chrome on older cars.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...15,43439,67014
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post #4 of 6 Old 05-24-2013, 12:53 PM
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You have done the right thing in cleaning and waxing the top of your saw. Despite my best efforts my Uni Saw top has spots that probably can't be removed without sanding. I'm not as concerned with the spots now as I was when the saw was new. Hot water and mild soap are the best for cleaning cast iron without a steam cleaner. I'm sure to get mine dry with a towel and compressed air before I apply the wax. A friend has a pair of Uni Saws from the 40s and the tops are well worn, speckled with tiny pits and they are a dark gray but they are lovely old arn that work just fine.
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post #5 of 6 Old 05-25-2013, 09:32 AM
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I put a 2 HEAVY coats of wax on my first cast iron table saw, but it still got rust from the humidity in just a few days. I just got some GlideCote for my new saw. It's supposed to last 3 times longer than paste wax, as well as being more rust resistant the whole time. I do know it was much easier to apply, and there's no danger of build-up.
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post #6 of 6 Old 05-25-2013, 06:08 PM
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Finger prints wipe right off my granite top....lol

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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