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Do You Use Your Table Saw as a Work/Project Table?

5K views 29 replies 24 participants last post by  twedlake 
#1 ·
Do you use your table saw as a work table when you are not sawing with it? If so, how do you protect the surface? Do you cover your cast iron table saw top for table use? ... or do you apply a coat Johnson's Paste Wax and use it as a table without worry?

(I know that some people have special fabric/plastic covers to protect against rust from condensation, but that isn't an issue here.)

I am thinking about covering my cast iron table saw with a hardboard top to protect it so it can be used as a table surface to hold stuff (maybe even a can of soda?) or as a work table for projects, crafts, etc. The top would be easily removed for table saw use, of course.

Would a hardboard top cause problems to a cast iron table saw top? Could it leach or trap moisture and rust the cast iron? Is there a better solution?
 
#3 · (Edited)
Yes. In my small space the saw surface gets used for everything. I have cut sheets of cardboard I use for protection if I am painting or assembling on the surface. If I am not using the saw for any work it ends up a collect all in the shop.


If I had a larger shop I wouldn't consider using it that way. The saw would be clean, clear and ready for use but, my space is so small I just don't have the luxury.
 
#5 ·
For smaller shop, it's a necessity!

When I had a small shop, I use a 3/4" piece of plywood with "keeper" rails on front and back to keep it from sliding around. It was about 4 ft square, so kinda heavy and the fence had to come off to install it. This kept the paint and other contaminants off the cast iron which got a few coats of wax to protect it.



:vs_cool:
 
#6 · (Edited)
Do You Use Your Table Saw as a Work/Project Table?
absolutely !!
I usually keep a piece of plywood on the top of the saw table
as the work surface (most of the time).
people that worry about a scuff, a few drops of paint or glue,
a little rust now and then - - - have some really deep issues
that they need to seek professional help with. (and you know who you are).

and since this subject has come up again, I ran across this drawing
on the net about making the wood top for the saw. I modified it a bit
with gluing a penny on the underside to help the cast iron top to "breathe"
and the penny will not rust. (you can use any item of your choice).
a hole punch and a piece of 1/8" thick plastic PVC would work well.
[this is my project for today ~ after I chisel some epoxy and paint off the saw].
 

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#8 ·
Every day. But I don't pound on it. If I need to pound on something I use the floor or the bench on the other side of the CNC. One reason I like using the table saw extension is that I can get all around the sides whereas the bench against the wall is only accessible from the front. When I spray lacquer I cover the table saw top and extension with cardboard.

Wood Table Hardwood woodworking Plywood


Wood Carpenter Table Furniture woodworking


Wood Table Furniture Hardwood Wood stain


David
 
#10 ·
Being the largest flat surface centered in the middle of a small shop, my TS turns into the "main bench" on a daily basis (never hammer on it though).
Under one end, I've got a large roll of brown paper (1500' I think?) that I can pull over to protect it. Think of it like the roll of paper on the table of the chair/bed in a doctors office. I have thought about a 1/4" plywood or luan with 1x2 border to keep it from sliding around, but just haven't gotten around to it.
 
#17 ·
Never. All my stationary power tools are in one room of my Grouch Cave, & my assembly table, workbench, clamps, glue, & hand tools are in the other. I, fortunately, have enough room to be able to use the saw only for its intended purpose.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You in dry land cotton or irrigated? My wife grew up in Hamlin and we have friends in Muleshoe.


George
 
#13 · (Edited)
an after thought on the cleats to hold the plywood to the
saw top . . . . make the cleat the same thickness as the wings.
that would enable easy edge clamping should you need it.
[my small shop is not dedicated to just woodworking.
the table saw often sees yard power tools, plumbing projects,
potting plants, as well as boat motor repairs, glue-ups and painting].
your shop = your call.
 

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#20 ·
Always glad when you put your two cents in. Currently my table saw is supporting my power ventilated spray booth and my buffing station. Later it will be supporting some cherry and the high speed circular blade accessory that I found projects through the surface. Seems like it could be dead useful for cutting some wood.
 
#24 ·
Update:

I bought a "white coated panel" at Home Depot. It is 3x7, not 4x8. The 3x7 size is larger than I need. It is painted white on top and a smooth, hard, light brown on the bottom (tempered?). I hope that the white paint coating will keep moisture from going through. (I will run a few tests on cutoffs.)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/202088784

I wish it had that fibrous bottom of regular hardboard, which might keep it from slipping around. I may add thin miter strips to lock it to the miter slots.

Photos:

* View of the cover with an inverted cut-off piece to show the bottom.
* Closeup of the cover and bottom.
 

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#29 ·
Final Report:

I tested a cutoff piece, which I put on a silicone work mat. I put an ice cold can of soda and a large (quarter-size) drop of tap water on it. I could feel the condensation forming on the soda can as I put it down. I left the test overnight in the dry, warm air.

When I checked this morning, the test piece was dry and flat with no sign of swelling or bulges. The test piece seemed unaffected by the previous day's water that was left on its surface. There was no discoloration on the back side or anywhere else on the test piece. The soda can was at room temperature and dry. There was no ring on the surface of the test piece below it. The water droplet left an ordinary mineral ring when it evaporated, which our hard water does on any surface.

I will glue two thin strips underneath for the miter slots, to keep the cover from floating around as much. I may cut it in two someday, so I won't have to lower the blade and remove the riving knife/blade guard when the the cover is in place.
 
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