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Hello all,
I'm looking for someone who may be able to explain to me what is attached to this 1/3 hp electric motor that came with my (slightly used
)1950's craftsman bandsaw. The guy I got it from said he didn't know what it did either.
I'm trying to restore the bandsaw to its former glory and currently have the whole thing torn down cleaning everything/trying to wrap my head around what everything does. Any and all comments/suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance!
-Colbi
Ps. I'm talking about the gear looking thing, however if someone would like to confirm what that black thing is hanging off the back (capacitor??) that would be great!
I'm looking for someone who may be able to explain to me what is attached to this 1/3 hp electric motor that came with my (slightly used

I'm trying to restore the bandsaw to its former glory and currently have the whole thing torn down cleaning everything/trying to wrap my head around what everything does. Any and all comments/suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance!
-Colbi
Ps. I'm talking about the gear looking thing, however if someone would like to confirm what that black thing is hanging off the back (capacitor??) that would be great!
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Based on the first photo ..
I'd say it was a gear /belt reduction drive to slow the blade down for metal cutting. I used something similar way back when ... on a 12" Craftsman saw to cut metal.
from http://www.vintagemachinery.org/phot....aspx?id=15829

from http://www.vintagemachinery.org/phot....aspx?id=15829


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
Last edited by woodnthings; 09-17-2016 at 02:51 PM.
The Following User Says Thank You to woodnthings For This Useful Post: | cstowers (09-17-2016) |
That does, like woodnthings said, appear to be a reduction gear box for cutting metal. And yes, the 'thing' hanging off the back is a capacitor. Welcome to the forum, Colbi!
David
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The Following User Says Thank You to difalkner For This Useful Post: | cstowers (09-17-2016) |
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Junior Member
Thank you sir! Those pictures are spot on!
I think I'll go ahead and remove it and if I ever need to reduce the speed maybe I'll looking into upgrading to a digital motor controller.

I think I'll go ahead and remove it and if I ever need to reduce the speed maybe I'll looking into upgrading to a digital motor controller.
-Colbi
Junior Member
Thank you David!
-Colbi
Another vote for that being a gear reduction. Wonder what the reduction ratio is, depending on how slow it goes I might k ow a guy who want to take it off your hands...
wood vs metal cutting speeds
Wood cutting speeds are around 3000 FPM. Metal cutting speeds vary between 300 FPM to 100 FPM for the harder stuff like steel. So .... a 10 to 1 ratio is what you need and that's what I used back when. That one appears to be a "double reduction" system to keep the size as small as possible.
https://www.sawblade.com/band-saw-bl...feed-chart.cfm
Using pulleys, a 10" pulley on the machine and a 1" pulley on the motor would work. But there are other factors like wheel diameter. Typically a built in bandsaw speed reducer works on either 3000 FPM or 1000 FPM, which is too fast to cut steel. You can cut aluminum at wood cutting speed with no ill effects. BTDT.
https://www.sawblade.com/band-saw-bl...feed-chart.cfm
Using pulleys, a 10" pulley on the machine and a 1" pulley on the motor would work. But there are other factors like wheel diameter. Typically a built in bandsaw speed reducer works on either 3000 FPM or 1000 FPM, which is too fast to cut steel. You can cut aluminum at wood cutting speed with no ill effects. BTDT.
The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
Last edited by woodnthings; 09-17-2016 at 06:38 PM.
Senior Member
I wonder how you get a blade tight enough to do metal cutting on a woodworking bandsaw. I have a metal cutting bandsaw and the wheels don't have tires on it and the blade is tight as a piano wire.
The Following User Says Thank You to Steve Neul For This Useful Post: | WesTex (09-17-2016) |
I have 2 metal bandsaws
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul
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I wonder how you get a blade tight enough to do metal cutting on a woodworking bandsaw. I have a metal cutting bandsaw and the wheels don't have tires on it and the blade is tight as a piano wire.
The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul
View Post
I wonder how you get a blade tight enough to do metal cutting on a woodworking bandsaw. I have a metal cutting bandsaw and the wheels don't have tires on it and the blade is tight as a piano wire.
The bigger problem would be finding a metal cutting blade long enough to fit a woodworking bandsaw. I cant imagine the lengths would match up with the common woodworking sizes, given that metal cutting saws tend to jump from "portaband" to "giant horizontal", with very few steps in between
Senior Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by epicfail48
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Most metal cutting saws that ive seen rely just as much on the width of the blade as they do on tension. My little HF portaband puts the blade under tension, but its still possible to flex the blade if you try. During a cut though, the blade is wide enough to keep straight.
The bigger problem would be finding a metal cutting blade long enough to fit a woodworking bandsaw. I cant imagine the lengths would match up with the common woodworking sizes, given that metal cutting saws tend to jump from "portaband" to "giant horizontal", with very few steps in between
The bigger problem would be finding a metal cutting blade long enough to fit a woodworking bandsaw. I cant imagine the lengths would match up with the common woodworking sizes, given that metal cutting saws tend to jump from "portaband" to "giant horizontal", with very few steps in between
Seems like the metal dust would contaminate wood pieces being worked on.
not so
Quote:
Originally Posted by epicfail48
View Post
The bigger problem would be finding a metal cutting blade long enough to fit a woodworking bandsaw. I cant imagine the lengths would match up with the common woodworking sizes, given that metal cutting saws tend to jump from "portaband" to "giant horizontal", with very few steps in between
http://www.lenoxtools.com/pages/leno...aw-blades.aspx
http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2016/main/611?p=611
The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
Senior Member
yes, the black thing is a capacitor. please be aware that the connections could have as much as 340 volts on them, even after you turn off power. it is usually housed in a case mounted to the side of the motor. it needs to be covered up.
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electric motor, machinery, motor adapter, old tools, restore |
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