Dewalt router jumps off - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 02-19-2020, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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Dewalt router jumps off

I am doing a mortis on a piece of oak. When doing it with my router that has a parallel fence, it ends up jumping like itís going against grain possibly???

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post #2 of 11 Old 02-19-2020, 03:48 PM
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if that were my project, I would not be eating that much
wood at a time. I would go maybe 1/8" bites at a time.
what diameter is the bit ?
how much are you removing in one pass ?
it looked like that last plunge caught some wood and jerked to the left.

Dewalt router jumps off-061cfda6-5216-4e1f-9875-868eebf3020d_1582144944443.jpg

I am a painter: that's what I do, I like to paint things.

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post #3 of 11 Old 02-19-2020, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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I am using a 5/8 bit. Should I start smaller and not as deep? What about the speed on it?

Thank you so much for your response. Building a farmhouse table for my wife and new to woodworking. Learning a lot by mistakes.




QUOTE=John Smith_inFL;2097171]if that were my project, I would not be eating that much
wood at a time. I would go maybe 1/8" bites at a time.
what diameter is the bit ?
how much are you removing in one pass ?
it looked like that last plunge caught some wood and jerked to the left.

Attachment 384945[/QUOTE]
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post #4 of 11 Old 02-19-2020, 04:17 PM
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since that is your mortise - it will never be seen.
just back off on the amount of material being removed
and hold the router with a death grip and you will be fine.
as for the speed: I have never had a variable speed router
so I can't attest to that part.
just carry on !! looking forward to seeing your finished project.

I am a painter: that's what I do, I like to paint things.

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post #5 of 11 Old 02-19-2020, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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Great. Thank you! Will be post pics when done.
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post #6 of 11 Old 02-19-2020, 04:44 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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A fence is not the best way .....

You could use a self-centering base on the router which works better. The feed direction on a fence will make it bite into the wood and hold the fence tighter OR it will want to push the whole router, fence and all way from the work. So, feed direction is important.

A base like this can accept two pins inserted in matching opposing holes. Then when you rotate the router and base the pins ride against the edges of the workpiece and self-center it.

https://www.rockler.com/mortise-cent...hoCmUgQAvD_BwE

Like this if you want to make one:

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 02-19-2020 at 06:25 PM.
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post #7 of 11 Old 02-19-2020, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Del50man View Post
I am doing a mortis on a piece of oak. When doing it with my router that has a parallel fence, it ends up jumping like itís going against grain possibly???
Move the router from left to right and it won't do that.

START -----------------------> Router direction


Quote:
Originally Posted by Del50man View Post
I am using a 5/8 bit. Should I start smaller and not as deep? What about the speed on it?
Depth is something you just have to get a feel for. But yes - it usually takes at least a couple of passes, depending on the size of the bit and your total depth.

There are two speeds you have to think about: 1) The speed of the bit and 2) How fast you move the router with your arms. Again, just one of those things you have to get a feel for. The main thing is the hardness of the wood. Hardwood = slower bit speed and faster arm movement to avoid burning.

⚡ Anthony
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post #8 of 11 Old 02-20-2020, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
A base like this can accept two pins inserted in matching opposing holes. Then when you rotate the router and base the pins ride against the edges of the workpiece and self-center it.


Like this if you want to make one:
Make a Self Centering Mortise Jig for Floating Mortise and Tenon Joints - YouTube

I've never used a base/jig like that, but it seems it wouldn't be too handy for making mortises at the ends of workpieces without material to ride against.
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post #9 of 11 Old 02-20-2020, 01:10 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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You are right about that ...... ^

There are other, more complicated versions you can buy or make that would solve that issue. I made my own, a parallelogram type that self centers on the workpiece. It is more complicated to make, but a simple concept. It is shown here:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/memb...on-quilt-rack/
Once it's adjusted to fit the width of the workpiece you can slide it along at any and stop point for you mortise length. Start and stop blocks can be used or marked lines.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #10 of 11 Old 02-20-2020, 02:41 PM
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Even though you don't own the specific router, I recommend that you read one of my "Supplemental Manuals" for Festool routers. My manuals go into much deeper discussions about the operation of any power tool than a typical manual does. That's why they have always been in rather high demand.

The situation you are describing is actually covered in all of my router manuals, and is the result of the direction the router bit tends to drift depending on the feed direction. In one direction, the bit tends to pull into your fence, while in the other direction, it tends to push away from your fence.

Below is an excerpt from the Festool OF2200 router manual.

The manual itself is located here:
http://www.waterfront-woods.com/fest...200_Manual.pdf

And all of my manuals are located at this page:
http://www.waterfront-woods.com/festool/
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post #11 of 11 Old 02-21-2020, 08:44 AM
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what you are experiencing is that the router is pulling in one direction from the rotation of one side of the bit and pushing on the other side from the rotation direction of that side of the bit. difference in wood density will cause the wood to move all over when trying to make a full width bit cut, without a very secure hold against the fence. a smaller depth of cut will help, but could still get you into trouble if decides to catch.

i typically will use a smaller diameter bit (3/8" in your case) and make one pass, flip it over and make a second pass on the other side, more controllable.
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