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-   -   DeWalt RAS Broken model 11531 (https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/dewalt-ras-broken-model-11531-a-64848/)

stillhave10fingers 08-07-2014 05:59 PM

DeWalt RAS Broken model 11531
 
2 Attachment(s)
A friend has offered this to me for sale. It is not working but I haven't heard yet what it is or is not doing. One of the attached pics is what the seller sent me to tell me the model number (11531).

I have scrounged and scrounged, used google, bing, yahoo but am coming up with ZIP. None of the tool sites have offered anything. Just getting blanks. This utterly baffles me. The information plate is on the base - is that possibly the plate for only the base and I am needing to see the plate from somewhere else on the saw?

This absence of any information has me convinced that I'd never get this thing running or if I did, it would only be with much effort and hit-and-miss. Is there any typical failure mode? In the process of trying to fix another RAS (B&D #1712) I just got I am learning about brush vs. brushless motors, starting caps, etc. - I think my issue with the 1712 is the cap, but I don't really need to be buying any more problems unless there is a relatively clear path to get them running. These saws are supposed to be helping me solve problems.

This one looks awfully 'rode hard and put up wet' but maybe it's just dirt from a long period of disuse. He wants $75 for it. Any thoughts?

Does anybody have any idea what it costs to have the rotor rewound? Or the armature? Can a shop replace the brush contacts on a rotor? I'm guessing that it is a small fortune. If the model number of this saw is the number I am reading off the plate, it seems obvious I will not be buying replacement parts *anywhere* and will be modifying/rebuilding/repairing every part I need - even brushes.

I would love to get one of these old RASes 'from the good ole days' that you guys all mistey-eyed when you talk about them glowingly. The ones I see around here for sale like that are usually $600 on up. Sometimes they might be closer to $400 but look pretty used.

I am all ears - ad(thanks)vance.

BigJim 08-07-2014 06:32 PM

I had a 16 inch Dewalt made in 1957 similar to that one, it was and still is one fine machine. Does the blade spin freely, can you pull the carriage without force. My RAS quit a couple of times, turned out the contacts in the switch box were corroded. Later on the saw would buzz when turned on, if I would spin the blade by hand then turn the saw on it would work. I was told the armature needed rewinding, I never did get it rewound, I just started it by hand. They wanted $800 back around 1990 to rewind it. It may be cheaper now days.

epicfail48 08-07-2014 07:52 PM

Rewinding, from the prices I've seen, is only really cost effective if the motor is 500+ to replace. Thankfully, there are USUALLY other things that go out before the windings. Personally, if the blade turns and the carriage moves, I'd take it for $75, if I couldn't talk it down to $50. Then again, I enjoy a challenges

pweller 08-07-2014 08:40 PM

You might go to www.owwm.org (Old Woodworking Machines) website for more info on that saw.

To me, the cost of $75 is almost irrelevant with respect to how much work (and possibly money) you'd have to put into that saw to make it usable.

It looks like it would probably be a money pit, and a big time-waster. Personally, I'd much rather pay $250 for one that's nice than to get a beater like that one. If you like to restore tools, then it would be fine, but if you want to spend your time doing woodworking, then I'd consider something else.

I've found problems on every used tool I've purchased, and they all looked much better than that saw. So, when I see obvious signs of neglect, I'm thinking that's an indication of a major restoration project. I can see that $75 turning into a $400 project - so you have to ask yourself if it's worth that kind of money to you in the end.

stillhave10fingers 08-08-2014 04:23 PM

Thanks folks.

I have been through OWWM and snagged about everytning I could find for DeWalt RASes. I went through them all and did find a product catalog that announced they were changing their model IDs and had a table for cross-referencing between the letter system and the number system. If I recall correctly they were going from letters to numbers but, either way, there were no numbers that looked anything like this one at all.

I have usually found the maxim, "Everything is on the internet - ya just gotta find it!" to hold but the absence of anything on this saw and that *youse* guys here at the brain trust don't know about it even more surprising.

I do love this site.

stillhave10fingers 08-08-2014 05:45 PM

OK, I am senile, blind, or both.... that model number is NOT 11531, it is..... T1531

Duhhhh. Sorry about the misinformation.

Reset.

pweller 08-08-2014 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stillhave10fingers (Post 627586)
OK, I am senile, blind, or both.... that model number is NOT 11531, it is..... T1531

Duhhhh. Sorry about the misinformation.

Reset.

I thought maybe the first letter was an 'I' when I was looking around - I did find more part numbers in a '1500 type' series, but I didn't see a 1531 specifically (I didn't look that hard, though).

I'd suggest you look at some of the Black and Decker RASs though. The blade guard on their saws looks more like yours than many of the DeWalt branded saws.

epicfail48 08-08-2014 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pweller (Post 627595)
I thought maybe the first letter was an 'I' when I was looking around - I did find more part numbers in a '1500 type' series, but I didn't see a 1531 specifically (I didn't look that hard, though).

I'd suggest you look at some of the Black and Decker RASs though. The blade guard on their saws looks more like yours than many of the DeWalt branded saws.

Funny you said that, from 5 minutes of googling it looks like this saw was made when black and decker still sold RAS's under its label, still during the time when B&D owned DeWalt and sold tools under a joint label. Looks similar because it IS similar

jacbec 09-15-2016 09:36 PM

I have a Black & Decker DeWalt Model T 1531/SerNo 580315 I acquired in 1969. It is in great condition except I lost the switch key. Anyone know where I can get a replacement?

[email protected]

Steve Neul 09-15-2016 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jacbec (Post 1472266)
I have a Black & Decker DeWalt Model T 1531/SerNo 580315 I acquired in 1969. It is in great condition except I lost the switch key. Anyone know where I can get a replacement?

[email protected]

That old if you can't fabricate a key you might as well replace the switch.

Toolman50 09-16-2016 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jacbec (Post 1472266)
I have a Black & Decker DeWalt Model T 1531/SerNo 580315 I acquired in 1969. It is in great condition except I lost the switch key. Anyone know where I can get a replacement?

[email protected]

I think you can just make you a key out of very light gauge metal.
There's really hardly any lock to it and a home made key should be easy.
Just make it as close as you remember the old one and it will probably work.

Toolman50 09-16-2016 10:13 AM

The pros and cons of the old RAS:
Pros: It looks to be all there, complete.
These old saws can be refurbished to look nice
Cons: it doesn't work
You have no idea on the repair cost
The saw is over 50 years old.
Replacement parts will probably be unavailable.

If you have no experience with electrical motors, I would wait and find a running saw.
Your original $75 investment can grow quickly when you get into repairs.
If it hasn't been used in years, a non-working 50 year old saw should be given away to haul it off.

woodnthings 09-16-2016 10:22 AM

who you talkin' to?
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by jacbec (Post 1472266)
I have a Black & Decker DeWalt Model T 1531/SerNo 580315 I acquired in 1969. It is in great condition except I lost the switch key. Anyone know where I can get a replacement?

[email protected]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toolman50 (Post 1472458)
The pros and cons of the old RAS:
Pros: It looks to be all there, complete.
These old saws can be refurbished to look nice
Cons: it doesn't work
You have no idea on the repair cost
The saw is over 50 years old.
Replacement parts will probably be unavailable.

If you have no experience with electrical motors, I would wait and find a running saw.
Your original $75 investment can grow quickly when you get into repairs.
If it hasn't been used in years, a non-working 50 year old saw should be given away to haul it off.

There is no mention of a $75.00 investment in this latest post about a lost key....? It is certainly worth trying to duplicate a key from some 1/16" aluminum. Search for power tool safety keys...
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...y+key&_sacat=0

http://thumbs.ebaystatic.com/images/...giF/s-l225.jpg

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Sears-Craf...QAAOSw9N1V2giF

Steve Neul 09-16-2016 10:51 AM

I think I would take the switch off the saw and see if you can get into the lock mechanism to see what is needed. The key should be very simple, not for security but to keep your kids from turning the saw on.

The $75.00 came from a 2014 post, not the current topic.

Toolman50 09-16-2016 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve Neul (Post 1472474)
I think I would take the switch off the saw and see if you can get into the lock mechanism to see what is needed. The key should be very simple, not for security but to keep your kids from turning the saw on.

The $75.00 came from a 2014 post, not the current topic.

Steve you are exactly right, I didn't realize the original post was from 2014.
My mistake for wasting a post.

Steve Neul 09-16-2016 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toolman50 (Post 1472690)
Steve you are exactly right, I didn't realize the original post was from 2014.
My mistake for wasting a post.

These old threads should come with a flashing light.


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