Ah well, I got kicked off awhile because I hurt a childs feelings over the SawStop gizmo.
I will say this about that, and perhaps give another perspective.
I have been a pro machinist since 1968, it not an easy or kind job at times.
The way it is, if you hurt yourself in the machine shop, you are on the way out. You are considered a hazzard not only to youself, but everyone else also.
One will never see anyone admit to getting hurt on the practical machinist site for example, or blame the machine.
Alright, that said, if one is prone to sticking body parts into the business end of machines, do not even consider this saw.
I came to the point of needing a more stable platform to saw with, then a contractors saw.
My wants were, heavy as possible, and still be able to get it through a 31" door, and down a flight of stairs.
A better fence then the POS Jet Lock, and a flat unmolested table.
I looked at 12" saws, including PM 68 and 72, new Grizzly, ect.
The Delta stood out with this feature- changable arbors.
From what I have heard, the Grizzly 12" has this feature, but the Grizzly is just a 10" extreem series modified for 12" blades and only a puny 600 or so pounds. And more then $2500.
With the Biesemeyer fence, blade gaurd/splitter, and rather heavy constructed right table, this 12-14 scaled at just over 950lbs.
This saw was owned by the area Steinway technition,very well taken care of, but has sat for several years after he passed away.
The saw came with many blades of sizes of 12 and 14" including a 12" dado set.
It also came with an Excalibur sliding table attachment, and Excalibur boom type vaccum/blade gaurd, delta tenon jig and much much more.
One thing Delta never made was a 5/8" arbor extension.
I asume from the blades I got with the saw, the owner had arbors from 1" to 1 /8" and 1 1/4", they were lost in the shuffle, though I did get nuts and outer flanges.
All for $800.
I have a considerable collection of 5/8" hole 10" blades, first thing, I made a 5/8" arbor with its 5/8" 12 tpi acme and 5/8" 18 V, left hand threads.
Powering the saw.
the saw has a large frame 5hp 3 phase motor. It came with an Autogen static phase converter that works quite well.
The photo I will post of the saw is the craigslist photo, in the photo, to the right on the floor, is a 7hp 3phase motor that has its shaft sawed off.
It looks like the owner would use that at times as an idler, to get closer to full hp out of the saws motor.
I am doing it basically the same.
I have a wall mounted cutoff switch, I can either use just the static converter for lighter work, or with plugs, place the idler motor in line after the converter.
With idler in line, its started when the wall switch is engaged, then the saws switch is used.
Using just the Autogen, this converter uses both start and run caps. I gives a two stage start that is soft, sort of a "bing and softer bang" then when using the idler in line.
The switch on the saw, I thought that was a pretty odd location, and its operated by foot.
It can be seen in the CL photo, a Bridgeport mill, he had a complete machine shop also.
Being he was a machinist, he was also used to operating machines from the right side of the cutting action, as well as myself.
The switch works perfectly for me, it stays where it is.
Zero clearance table inserts.
The saws normal blade location is along the right side of table opening.
There is enough table adjustment movement, the table can be shifted to the right, giving 1/4" room at that point, making true zero clearance inserts possible.
In short, this saw delivers what I need, and expect from a machine tool.
There simply is no comparing this to a contractor saw, a joke of a machine.
I soon realized the standard switch location would be hard to reach because of the Biesemeyer fence.