Woodworking Talk banner

Delta 36-725 tripped my circuit breaker. Now the saw won't start. Any help?

18K views 11 replies 9 participants last post by  JayArr 
#1 ·
As the title says I was using my saw today and the breaker (15 amp) tripped. I reset the breaker but now the saw won't start. When I turn it on it sounds like the motor wants to start but the blade isn't turning (I can turn the blade freely with the saw off). The saw is less than a month old and I've only used it a couple days. I've been using it the pass several days with no problem making rip cuts. I changed the blade today to make cross cuts and after about 15 cuts this happened. I had been turning the saw off in between cuts. I did what the manual said; let it cool for a few minutes, pressed the reset switch and started it and that didn't do anything. Any advice?

Here's a video showing the noise the motor makes and the slight "twitching" movement of the blade: http://youtu.be/jwgVWwz_364
 
#6 ·
http://imgur.com/InIiUxR http://imgur.com/7YGVFk0 There are a couple of pictures of the capacitor. It doesn't look burnt up, should it though? I have a digital multimeter (although it doesnt have a capacitance scale), is there any checks I can do?
The capacitor can be burned internally and show nothing externally. The purpose of a capacitor is it stores power to be released at the time you start the motor, sort of kick starting it. It takes a special tool to really check one to see if it's storing power.
 
#8 ·
First of all, as GeorgeC suggested, use your warranty!

From the symptoms, it appears to be a problem with the starting system, which consists of a start winding, a start capacitor, and a centrifugal switch. Within these components, the start capacitor would seem to be the likely culprit. The start capacitor alters the phase of the start winding, while it's energized via the centrifugal switch, to provide a rotating field to start the motor moving in the desired direction.

However, since you described an apparent overload situation just prior to the no-start problem, I'd also wonder about the run capacitor, which your motor seems to include in addition to the start capacitor.

If it were mine, and it was out of warranty, I'd change both capacitors, clean the centrifugal switch contacts, and expect it to work OK.

In your case, I'd still go with the recommendation of a warranty claim.
 
#9 ·
I tried to use warranty but they tell you capacitors are a maintenance issue. You have to replace your self or have someone else do it.
I'm having the same problem.
I've replaced both capacitors and still have same issue.

Did you find the solution ?
 
#11 ·
I recently had a failure-to-start fault with the Leeson 1ph 1.5hp motor on my Delta Model 10 tablesaw, that just about drove me crazy. In the end, it turned out to be two problems, the first being a short in the T6 lead from the centrifugal switch contact plate to the capacitor housing. Apparently, my inexpert tugging on the start capacitor leads last year re-arranged this wire and put it in the path of the rotating centrifugal switch, which proceeded to slash the insulation and short the wire to the aluminum fan housing.

I found it worth my sanity to replace my old Radio Shack analog multimeter with one that would read capacitance and for anybody with several capacitor-start motors (like most of us, eventually), I think you would find it worthwhile. Just be sure to short the terminals of the capacitor with an insulated tool before proceeding so you don't give yourself a Friz hairdo.

You can use the resistance function of a multimeter to test for a completely shot capacitor but I'm not sure that will disclose a still functional but out-of-range capacitor. Electrical faults can be so difficult and frustrating to diagnose - fading in and out like a ghost - that the relatively modest cost of a digital multimeter with capacitance function is, to me, confidence building at a time you really need some.

To conclude, the second fault was generated in the process of diagnosing the first one. By the time I had hauled the saw around to unship the motor from its mount to disassemble it, remount it SEVERAL TIMES - I'll spare you the sad details - I must have put paid to the old "oven outlet" on the garage wall, which began to deliver one leg or another of 240 VAC - sometimes both and sometimes not -- when it wanted to. I had originally started the diagnostics by checking current at the wall and for continuity all the way down to the motor control housing -- but I didn't test the reliability of the outlet by applying pressures. I was about ready to take up flower arranging instead of working wood.
 

Attachments

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top