Craftsman RAS - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 07-27-2012, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Craftsman RAS

I picked up my Uncle's Craftsman RAS two weeks ago, he said he is way to old (90+) and his eyes are bad. It did not have a table so I did the whole recall thing from Emerson(waiting on that) and ordered a new Onsrud 10x60 ATB -5 hook blade. The RAS has seen very little use,the yoke is very tight and motor windings are still bright copper. The model # is 113.197150. There are a few plastic parts that for some reason are missing. the plastic rip indicator (2) part
#815788 and the bevel indicator part #815806. being the saw is not THAT old I went to Craftsman's web site and these parts NO LONGER AVAILABLE! I know probably never need them but I would like to put the saw back into original condition.
Does anybody have an idea where I could find these parts,some place I may be missing? Thanks in advance for any help offered.
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post #2 of 11 Old 07-27-2012, 04:58 PM
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I don't use them either. You could keep an eye on eBay or Craigs List for those items, or pick up a basket case for cheap, and you'll have extra parts.









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post #3 of 11 Old 07-27-2012, 05:32 PM
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A lot of guys have turned in the motors from earlier models to Emerson for the bounty, and they try to sell the leftovers on e-bay...I'd bet some of those might work, but you would be taking a chance. Otherwise you might find the basket case that Cabinetman mentioned. Good choice on the blade, the negative hook makes life so much nicer with an RAS. BTW, if you don't have the manual for that saw, it's probably over at OWWM as a pdf file.

"I long for the days when coke was a cola and a joint was a bad place to be" (Merle Haggard)
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post #4 of 11 Old 07-27-2012, 07:13 PM
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I didn't like the accuracy of the rip indicator on my RAS. For some reason I was always bending it out of alignment. I went to HD and got a scrap piece of plastic glazing (i.e. Plastic window class). When clamped between two pieces of hardwood and heat from a heat gun I was able to bend the glazing to a bit more than a right angle. Next a simple scratch in the Glazing filled with ball point ink and a few holes, I had a new rip indicator.

Use the right tool for the job.

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post #5 of 11 Old 07-29-2012, 12:56 PM
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Hey All i'm glad I found a recent RAS thread going I need a bit of help.I have 2 craftsman radials at the moment and I am wondering where or who might sell the accessories for these things I tried the sears site and the parts plus site I am looking for things like the drum sander and miter square and pin router...They are in the manuals with parts #s but where do you get them if still available ???
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post #6 of 11 Old 07-29-2012, 01:29 PM
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I am not sure what the mitre square looks like.

Is it like this jig ?
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/47426

I think the RAS motor speed is too fast for drum sanding. You would be better off with an attachment for a drill press.

I used to have an RAS and the pin router, essentially a holder for 1/4in router bits on the accessory spindle. The RAS motor speed proved far too slow for routing.
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post #7 of 11 Old 07-29-2012, 03:41 PM
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Hey Dave Thanx for the feedback I just bought this second one yeasterday and its the electronic on the six drawer cabinet and I saw about a dozen optional accessories listed in the manual.It came with about 20 assorted blades a molder head a planer head and 2 10' double sided sanding discs not sure yet if the electronic part works need a batt.any info on this thing will be a help
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post #8 of 11 Old 07-29-2012, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveaphotodude View Post
Hey Dave Thanx for the feedback I just bought this second one yeasterday and its the electronic on the six drawer cabinet and I saw about a dozen optional accessories listed in the manual.It came with about 20 assorted blades a molder head a planer head and 2 10' double sided sanding discs not sure yet if the electronic part works need a batt.any info on this thing will be a help
I purchased the molder head. used it perhaps once. Very scary in my opinion. I think because the entire blade is above the work piece.

In the table saw, most would be under the table, and may even be under the piece, depending on shape.

Good luck with this.

Do not assume it is calibrated. These tools can be easily out of alignment. My old RAS would never go back to EXACTLY 90 deg if I moved the carriage, so I ended up calibrating and never moving.

If you move yours, I would check that it returns to exactly 90 deg.
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post #9 of 11 Old 07-29-2012, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Paine

I purchased the molder head. used it perhaps once. Very scary in my opinion. I think because the entire blade is above the work piece.

In the table saw, most would be under the table, and may even be under the piece, depending on shape.

Good luck with this.

Do not assume it is calibrated. These tools can be easily out of alignment. My old RAS would never go back to EXACTLY 90 deg if I moved the carriage, so I ended up calibrating and never moving.

If you move yours, I would check that it returns to exactly 90 deg.
I had a 12 RAS and built a new table but still could not get it to come back to 90 every time either. Too much adjusting so I sold it.
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post #10 of 11 Old 07-29-2012, 06:41 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Scary!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Paine View Post
I purchased the molder head. used it perhaps once. Very scary in my opinion. I think because the entire blade is above the work piece.

In the table saw, most would be under the table, and may even be under the piece, depending on shape.

If you move yours, I would check that it returns to exactly 90 deg.
The RAS manual shows the molding head parallel with the table surface and behind an fence...kinda duplicating the same situation as you would have when using it in a table saw.

Personally I would NOT recommend it in a RAS.

Some folks have good luck with the 1 cutter type head, myself I prefer a 3 cutter head for 3X as many cuts per minute and a smoother result.
The darn thing are just Scary!

This may also be helpful:


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 07-29-2012 at 06:46 PM.
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post #11 of 11 Old 07-29-2012, 11:11 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Here's the one I was looking for


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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