craftsman radial arm saw adj - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 17 Old 04-24-2010, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: iowa
Posts: 18
View timberrat's Photo Album My Photos
Question craftsman radial arm saw adj

For my first post i have a question that hopefully someone can answer. i have a craftsman radial arm saw 10" model ks48dd-174 i have tried to get a manual or download one freom craftsman with no luck. the saw has a detent stop for a 90 degree cut but when locked into the detent it is 3-5 degrees off. which is not a big deal because there is a fine tune adj knob and i can make it a perfect 90 but would like to have the detent correct any ideas or help would be great. i guess i should add that its for the bevel cut. as a newbie just want to say hi. looks like a great site

sorry i just found the model num i was looking on the motor the model num is 113.23100

Last edited by timberrat; 04-24-2010 at 10:34 PM. Reason: wrong model number
timberrat is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 17 Old 04-24-2010, 07:08 PM
SS user
 
Gene Howe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Snowflake, AZ
Posts: 2,690
View Gene Howe's Photo Album My Photos
Welcome to the craziness
I used to have an older one. I adjusted to 90 by shifting the table till it cut on a line drawn on the table with a square.
Don't see why it should make a difference if it's at a bevel, though.
I would cut a 2X piece at a 45 bevel and at a true 90 by using your fine adjustment knob. Then clamp that piece to the table. Push the blade back, put it at the 90 detent, remove the back fence, pull the blade fwd, lock it and adjust the table so the blade rests evenly on the beveled 2X. Tighten the table and reinstall the fence.
Good luck.
Gene

Last edited by Gene Howe; 04-24-2010 at 07:18 PM.
Gene Howe is offline  
post #3 of 17 Old 04-24-2010, 10:20 PM
Senior Member
 
dodgeboy77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 1,768
View dodgeboy77's Photo Album My Photos
Timberrat,

One thing that I noticed right away is that the model number you gave doesn't look like a Craftsman model number. For example, my 10" Craftsman RAS's model is 113.197151 .

The model number is probably on a decal on the back of the saw's base (where it is hard to look at, of course). If you can find the number, look it up here - http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...20080114x00001 - to get exploded views, parts lists and probably download the manual.

Bill
dodgeboy77 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 17 Old 04-24-2010, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: iowa
Posts: 18
View timberrat's Photo Album My Photos
craftsman ras model number

As i reedited my previous threa i found the real model number and its 113.23100. I dont know much about craftsman ras but am wondering if its a good model or a bad one? hopefully the seasoned woodworkers on here can help me. I got the saw given to me and it seems tight other than the bevel detent is off. I was on craigslist and a person from my town has a dewalt 10" for 125.00 maybe that would be a better saw. I am wanting to use the saw primarily for dados and possiblibly some cabinet makeing if it is precise enough.
timberrat is offline  
post #5 of 17 Old 04-24-2010, 11:12 PM
Old Methane Gas Cloud
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Huntington Beach, California
Posts: 3,500
View rrich's Photo Album My Photos
The saw is similar to the one that I used to have.

The proper alignment procedure is to align the back of the table to be perpendicular to the travel of the blade. Get a 24" framing square. Put the short edge against the back edge of the table. Pull the yoke and blade toward you. One tooth on the blade should just barely rub against the edge of the framing square. You can loosen the six screws that hold the table in place and bump the table to align the arm to the table. When this is done, the yoke can be turned and the blade will be parallel to the fence or perpendicular to the fence.

BTW - The knob on the left side of the yoke should be used to hold the yoke in position when the blade is parallel to the fence.

BTW2 - Be careful when snugging the rollers that control the yoke on the arm rails. The screws are set into aluminum. If these screws are over tightened, the threads may partially strip and the yoke positioning is no longer positive at its stops. This is almost always a disaster kick back just waiting.

Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
Huntington Beach, California
Remember that when we have the "BIG ONE" everything east of the Rockies falls into the ocean.
rrich is offline  
post #6 of 17 Old 04-25-2010, 11:11 AM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 26,202
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
do you mean bevel or miter stop?

The bevel stop is located on the yoke near the motor, and the miter stop, at 45 degrees left and right on the support column. If the bevel stop/detent doesn't seat securely, then it's worn or broken and will need repair, since none of you cuts will be accurate. It seems likely that if it holds securely at 90 degress, it should be OK at the 45 positions as well. Hard to diagnose over the internet.... bill
BTW any radial arm saw manual will given generic directions how to set up the saw for accuracy, including the table as gene and rich say, most of the alignment issues concern the table rather than the stops on the saw.

Last edited by woodnthings; 04-25-2010 at 11:26 AM.
woodnthings is online now  
post #7 of 17 Old 04-25-2010, 01:19 PM
Senior Member
 
JohnK007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Downers Grove, Illinois
Posts: 1,524
View JohnK007's Photo Album My Photos
Hey Timberrat, first Welcome to the site! Second, You are aware of the recall for certain older Craftsman radial arm saws, right? If not, here's the Consumer Product Safety Commission page explaining it, and the Emerson Electric page dealing with getting the replacement parts. CPSC: http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml01/01031.html Emerson Elec.: http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/
The kit is FREE and consists of a new blade guard and table plus hardware. I would order your kit and install it before making your fine adjustments. BTW, I think you are missing a digit in your model number. I believe there should be six digits after the period. Might want to check again.
JohnK007 is offline  
post #8 of 17 Old 04-26-2010, 09:29 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 868
View Colt W. Knight's Photo Album My Photos
My Craftsman RAS is a major PITA to align properly, and when I use to use it to cut bevels and rip it never stayed square, ever!
Colt W. Knight is offline  
post #9 of 17 Old 04-26-2010, 10:38 PM
Senior Member
 
TMA Woodworks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Lincoln NE
Posts: 157
View TMA Woodworks's Photo Album My Photos
Hi Timberrat,

If you can't come up with a manual PM me with your address and I'll make a copy and mail it to you. It will not be the exact same model but mine is of the same vintage and should be pretty similar.

Bob
TMA Woodworks is offline  
post #10 of 17 Old 04-29-2010, 02:11 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: iowa
Posts: 18
View timberrat's Photo Album My Photos
craftsman ras

thanks for all the advice guys this site is awesome. love it already, as for the craftsman ras did a little project with it last weekend and found that it is very touchy and does not like to stay adj. get the 90 degree set and than go to cut a 45 or a bevel cut and you have to re adj the 90 again. and should it want to lunge and stall well lets just say back to the drawing board!!! i thought i would really like having a ras but am wondering now. i dont want to spend more time keeping the saw in tune than working on my project. anybody got anything to say about a dewalt ras?
timberrat is offline  
post #11 of 17 Old 04-29-2010, 12:26 PM
Senior Member
 
dodgeboy77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 1,768
View dodgeboy77's Photo Album My Photos
Timberrat,

As far as the 'lunging' is concerned: RAS's should use a blade with a negative hook angle to minimize this. Normal table saw blades with their aggressive tooth angles cause the saw to want to dig in and come at you.

Freud makes an excellent RAS/Sliding Miter Saw blade that you can see here: http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU91R010-10-Inch-PermaShield-Coating/dp/B0000223IA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1272553918&sr=1-1
Other manufacturers make negative hook angle blades as well. I have the RU91 and it works very well and leaves an extremely smooth cut.

If the saw is lunging and stalling the mechanism is under a lot of stress and I can understand that this would throw the adjustments off. Not to mention the safety factor.

Bill
dodgeboy77 is offline  
post #12 of 17 Old 04-29-2010, 01:42 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 868
View Colt W. Knight's Photo Album My Photos
I need to get one of those blades, but if I do that means I havde to go through the trouble of setting up and getting my RAS back into working condition. Does it ever end?
Colt W. Knight is offline  
post #13 of 17 Old 04-29-2010, 07:49 PM
Old Methane Gas Cloud
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Huntington Beach, California
Posts: 3,500
View rrich's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by timberrat View Post
it is very touchy and does not like to stay adj. get the 90 degree set and than go to cut a 45 or a bevel cut and you have to re adj the 90 again. and should it want to lunge and stall well lets just say back to the drawing board!!!
You are describing the classic failure of the threads in the block of aluminum that holds the yoke wheels! (Where you pull up on the spring loaded pin to position the yoke.)

DO NOT USE THIS SAW TO MAKE A RIP CUT ! !

Making a rip cut will almost certainly create a kick back with a saw with this kind of a failure.

I doubt that you will be able to purchase a replacement part as Emerson wants the tools back. (They are trying to buy the liability issues.) They will probably give you a check for $100 for the saw.

The lunge that you describe is, as mentioned, probably caused by using a table saw blade. Please do not make any more cuts in your RAS with that blade.

When you buy a new blade, make sure that the hook angle of the teeth is negative or just barely positive. (No more than 5 positive) If you look at the blade and draw an imaginary line from the center of the blade to one of the teeth. On a table saw blade you'll see that teeth lean into this line while on a RAS (or SCMS) the teeth are almost parallel to (or leaning away from) the line.

Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
Huntington Beach, California
Remember that when we have the "BIG ONE" everything east of the Rockies falls into the ocean.
rrich is offline  
post #14 of 17 Old 04-29-2010, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: iowa
Posts: 18
View timberrat's Photo Album My Photos
craftsman ras

thanks for the input fellas when i get home im going to check out that dewalt ras model 7730. i purchansed a frued negative rake blade for the saw if i decide to buy the dewalt i will use it on that instead as for the craftsman ras i think it will go back to the guys storage shed who gave it to me.
timberrat is offline  
post #15 of 17 Old 04-30-2010, 01:54 AM
Senior Member
 
dodgeboy77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 1,768
View dodgeboy77's Photo Album My Photos
I realize I have brought up the Freud blade as good for RAS applications. I thought I would do some research to find out what other companies make a crosscut blade with either zero or negative hook angle that might be suitable for a RAS. I came up with this:

Amana Tool A.G.E. Series MD10-606TB 60T -5 hook $56

Amana Tool A.G.E. Series MD10-806 80T -5 hook $61

Bosch CB1080 80T 0 hook $36

Delta Machinery 35-619 60T -6 hook $70

Forrest CM10905105 Chopmaster Signature Line 90T neg. hook $170

Forrest CM10806105 Chopmaster 80T neg. hook $126

Freud LU91R010 60T -5 hook $65

Freud LU91M010 60T -5 hook $55

Timberline 250-600 60T 0 hook $35

Timberline 250-800 80T 0 hook $42

This list is by no means comprehensive and I have no idea as to the quality of the blades. I didn't list the exact hook angle of the Forrest blades as they are a bit unclear on that. The difference between the two Freud blades seems to be the type of coating. Prices are from Amazon, which I used for most of my research as they sell a large assortment of blades.

The Timberline and the Bosch seem to be the bargains but I have no idea as to their quality.

Bill
dodgeboy77 is offline  
post #16 of 17 Old 06-15-2010, 11:36 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 292
View Toolman2's Photo Album My Photos
Power Tool Manuals

I've had no problem locating manuals at the following websites:

managemyhome

hammerwall

owwm

Toolman2 is offline  
post #17 of 17 Old 06-15-2010, 02:51 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 18
View Zion21's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgeboy77 View Post
Timberrat,

As far as the 'lunging' is concerned: RAS's should use a blade with a negative hook angle to minimize this. Normal table saw blades with their aggressive tooth angles cause the saw to want to dig in and come at you.

Freud makes an excellent RAS/Sliding Miter Saw blade that you can see here: Amazon.com: Freud LU91R010 10-Inch 60 Tooth ATB Thin Kerf Miter Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating: Home Improvement

Other manufacturers make negative hook angle blades as well. I have the RU91 and it works very well and leaves an extremely smooth cut.


If the saw is lunging and stalling the mechanism is under a lot of stress and I can understand that this would throw the adjustments off. Not to mention the safety factor.

Bill
Freud does make a great blade. I get them from amazon as well to avoid tax and get the free shipping and have no complaints.
Zion21 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
craftsman radial arm saw problem Mossanimal Power Tools & Machinery 16 09-03-2019 11:41 AM
craftsman radial arm saw? nylarlathotep2003 Design & Plans 12 09-10-2010 05:03 PM
craftsman radial arm saw--manual royp Power Tools & Machinery 2 06-05-2009 09:54 PM
craftsman radial saw info newbywoody Power Tools & Machinery 7 02-24-2009 06:57 PM
craftsman radial arm saw questions LGC KX5 TC Power Tools & Machinery 32 02-08-2009 01:13 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome