Craftsman Jointer Problem - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 10-24-2015, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Craftsman Jointer Problem

I got my Dad's old Craftsman 6" Jointer and have a problem I hope you can help with. The knives are good and sharp and whatever I joint, works great until I get to the last inch or so of the piece. The jointer then takes an extra 1/16" of wood from what I am plaining. I have made sure I am applying pressure to the forward half of the piece so that the end of the wood does not dip into the knives and it still takes extra wood from the last inch.

I have never used a jointer before so can you tell me what I am doing before I ruin anymore pieces of good lumber?
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post #2 of 10 Old 10-24-2015, 09:50 AM
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table would
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zilbub View Post
I got my Dad's old Craftsman 6" Jointer and have a problem I hope you can help with. The knives are good and sharp and whatever I joint, works great until I get to the last inch or so of the piece. The jointer then takes an extra 1/16" of wood from what I am plaining. I have made sure I am applying pressure to the forward half of the piece so that the end of the wood does not dip into the knives and it still takes extra wood from the last inch.

I have never used a jointer before so can you tell me what I am doing before I ruin anymore pieces of good lumber?
I would say your outfeed table is LOWER than your infeed table
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post #3 of 10 Old 10-24-2015, 10:37 AM
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Have you used a known straight edge to check that the infeed and outfeed tables are parallel to each other? Have you checked to ensure that the knives are set so that they are even with (or one paper thickness above) the outfeed table. My Craftsman manual specifies the one paper thickness while others call for even.

While this would not effect your problem, you also want to check that the fence is square to (90 degrees) the tables.

If the tables are parallel the only thing that can cause this snipe is not even pressure on the outfeed table.

If all else fails then cut your boards a couple of inches too long so that the snipe may be removed after jointing. In general I run the boards through the jointer before cutting to length.

George
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post #4 of 10 Old 10-24-2015, 03:59 PM
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Jointer set up

Your out feed table must be set perfectly to the knives on the cutter head.
Not the infeed table. The infeed table has nothing to do with this adjustment.
The poor boy way to set this is with a good metal straight edge like a steel framing square.
Unplug the machine.
Set the square on the out feed table.
With your hand, rotate the cutter head
Adjust the out feed table where it is exactly at the same height as the knife edge at top dead center (highest point of rotation). Rotate the blade by hand to make sure you set the out feed at the high point of rotation.
Any space at all, up or down will be noticeable on the cut of wood. So set it on the money.
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post #5 of 10 Old 10-24-2015, 05:36 PM
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older Craftsman jonters

My 30 yr old Craftsman jointer had NO outfeed adjustment. The knives were set to the height of the outfeed table... and that's all you can do. Maybe your is the same....?

Snipe is caused by the knives being set too high OR the infeed table is tilted in relation to the fixed outfeed table. Run the infeed up so it's flush with the outfeed at the cutterhead and see if there is any daylight showing under a straight 48" aluminum level. If so it's a bit complicated to fix, and some shimming may be required.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #6 of 10 Old 10-24-2015, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
My 30 yr old Craftsman jointer had NO outfeed adjustment. The knives were set to the height of the outfeed table... and that's all you can do. Maybe your is the same....?

Snipe is caused by the knives being set too high OR the infeed table is tilted in relation to the fixed outfeed table. Run the infeed up so it's flush with the outfeed at the cutterhead and see if there is any daylight showing under a straight 48" aluminum level. If so it's a bit complicated to fix, and some shimming may be required.
If there is no adjustment to the out feed table and the cutter head has three knives, each knife would have to be set individually to the out feed.
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post #7 of 10 Old 10-24-2015, 09:04 PM
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like I said ....

Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
My 30 yr old Craftsman jointer had NO outfeed adjustment. The knives were set to the height of the outfeed table... and that's all you can do. Maybe your is the same....?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toolman50 View Post
If there is no adjustment to the out feed table and the cutter head has three knives, each knife would have to be set individually to the (height or flush with) the outfeed.

Remarks in parenthesis are mine. Apparently my response was not clear?

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #8 of 10 Old 10-24-2015, 11:43 PM
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I also have a old Craftsman 6" jointer with no adjustment of the rear table. The blades just have to be installed exactly level with the rear table. It's a pain but that is the only solution. On mine though the blades tend to raise up a little when you torque them down so I have to by trial and error set the blades just low enough they will rise up to the right height when torqued down.
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post #9 of 10 Old 10-26-2015, 12:31 PM
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I place an aluminum level (straight) on the outfeed table overlapping the knives. as I rotate the cutterhead, I judge how high the blades are by how much the level moves. I shoot for 1/8 or less movement of the level, that's barely moving. aluminum is easier on the knives.
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post #10 of 10 Old 10-26-2015, 04:55 PM
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my approach is similar

Quote:
Originally Posted by TimPa View Post
I place an aluminum level (straight) on the outfeed table overlapping the knives. as I rotate the cutterhead, I judge how high the blades are by how much the level moves. I shoot for 1/8 or less movement of the level, that's barely moving. aluminum is easier on the knives.
Quoting from an older thread:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/ho...des-how-10066/

When installing newly sharpened blades, I use the "propulsion" method of setting the height. There are jigs and fixtures to do the same with magnets and all, but I have pretty good success with this method. Place a flat scrap of wood or an aluminum bar on the out feed table and mark the edge of the outfeed, then let the bar hang over on to the blades an inch or so. UNPLUG THE MACHINE of course! AS you slowly turn the cutter head in the direction of rotation the blades will just kiss the bar and move it towards the infeed table. When each blade moves the bar the same amount (a very small amount) all the blades are set to the same height. Check both sides of the blade rather than just the middle.
If you've done everything right you should be good to go. You may as well learn this process sooner rather than later, since you'll need to do it eventually!
I recommend getting a second set of blades, if you're going to send them out for sharpening. Then, there is no down time waiting for the blades to come back!

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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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