Craftsman 6" jointer and 12" delta planer - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 17 Old 01-29-2012, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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Craftsman 6" jointer and 12" delta planer

Just found 2 on CL and I haven't seen them but I offered the guy 200 for both. He countered with 225. Is this a good price for them assuming they are in good shape?
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post #2 of 17 Old 01-29-2012, 10:50 AM
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Is it a floor model jointer or the little tabletop one?
Quick search of craigslist for my area found quite a few of the planers, 12" delta looks to average 125-150, although one guy is selling one that he says needs a new belt for $50, claims new belts are $30 bucks.

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Last edited by joesbucketorust; 01-29-2012 at 10:53 AM.
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post #3 of 17 Old 01-29-2012, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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post #4 of 17 Old 01-29-2012, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Also it's about 90 miles from me.
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post #5 of 17 Old 01-29-2012, 11:12 AM
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$225 for the both should be fair.

The value of your time and cost of gas only you can determine.

George
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post #6 of 17 Old 01-29-2012, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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That's what I was thinking. It's hard to find good deals close to me. Everyone wants close to new price for things. Thanks for the quick replies.
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post #7 of 17 Old 01-29-2012, 11:38 AM
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i run that jointer in my home shop - keep it tuned perfectly, and i wouldn't take 225 just for it. i also run an early model 12" delta bench top. little less happy with it - snipe king, but it does thickness plane, and cleanly if i keep the blades honed. package worth 225? yup imho.
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post #8 of 17 Old 01-29-2012, 12:14 PM
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Yea I guess 225 for that jointer and a small planer would be fair. Wouldn't prevent me from trying to talk the guy down a bit though. Oh poor me, 90 miles of driving and it was bumper-bumper the whole way, musta burned three tanks of gas, and I gotta hurry back because the wife is in labor with the triplets, plus hey I see there's a small scratch in the paint there - sure you won't take $180....

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post #9 of 17 Old 01-29-2012, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not going to make the deal. That is to far of a drive for me and I've read that it is a nice jointer and all but honestly It is a little too old for me. I've researched it and it was made in 1966 and you can no longer get parts for it except knives.
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post #10 of 17 Old 01-29-2012, 01:05 PM
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Fyi

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Originally Posted by ToddKY View Post
I'm not going to make the deal. That is to far of a drive for me and I've read that it is a nice jointer and all but honestly It is a little too old for me. I've researched it and it was made in 1966 and you can no longer get parts for it except knives.

I've got one like that and really the only things that can go wrong are the bearing, the belt and the knives of course. The bearing are a common part as is the belt. Mine has served me very well, but I also have newer ones. I often use that one because I know it's tuned up and sharp. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #11 of 17 Old 01-30-2012, 03:44 AM
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Those old C-man jointers seem to kind of a whippin boy for some equip snobs?

We used one for 30 or so years to VG $$$ effect.We're almost wholey edge jointing,feeling theres better/safer ways to face "joint".But in anycase,our 6" did very well.

Custom enclosed base,a mix of cabmet grade 3/4 plywood as cvrs(fr,back),big honkin pcs of 12/4 Maple fore and aft as verts......all sittin on a steel deck,with steel angle on bases perimieter.Base was filled with concrete....runnin dbl machined pulleys.

Only recently snaggin an 8" longbed jointer.And there isn't a nickle's worth of difference in finish/straightness/squareness of cut.

Just sayin,when folks start spouting off about this or that pc of equip....."talent",overides equip in just about every instance in woodshop.BW

Those who say it cannot be done shouldn't interrupt the people doing it.
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post #12 of 17 Old 02-07-2012, 08:46 AM
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The price is good but I have both a craftsman jointer and a delta planer and hate them both. The jointer has a rear table that is not adjustable so it takes hours to install the blades after sharpening to get them just right. The table is too short so I had to build a catch table behind it for long material. The fence will not stay at 90 degrees so everytime I use it I have to check for square.

The planer has a rubber infeed and outfeed roller that worked ok for the first couple of months is now chewed up and doesn't feed correctly now. Then for every hour I use it I spend probably 20 minutes reassemblying it. It falls apart from the vibration even using threadlock on the screws.
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post #13 of 17 Old 02-07-2012, 08:59 AM
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The price is good but I have both a craftsman jointer and a delta planer and hate them both. The jointer has a rear table that is not adjustable so it takes hours to install the blades after sharpening to get them just right. The table is too short so I had to build a catch table behind it for long material. The fence will not stay at 90 degrees so everytime I use it I have to check for square.
Steve I have the same jointer and it could not be easier to set the blade height. I use an aluminum bar as a reference with a mark to show how far it moves from the edge of the table when I rotate the cutter head in the proper direction.

I call it the "cave man " method and it's on You tube also.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/ho...des-how-10066/

I've been using the heck out of that jointer for the past 4 days making quater sawn red oak boards ready for the tablesaw and planer. It works like a charm. I don't understand why you are having such a hard time setting the blades....? bill

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Last edited by woodnthings; 02-09-2012 at 11:34 PM.
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post #14 of 17 Old 02-09-2012, 11:27 PM
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Steve I have the same jointer and it could not be easier to set the blade height. I use an aluminum bar as a reference with a mark to show how far it moves from the edge of the table when I rotate the cutter head in the proper direction.

I call it the "cave man " method and it's on You tube also.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/ho...des-how-10066/

I've been using the heck out of that jointer for the past 4 days making quatersawn red oak boarks ready for the tablesaw and planer. It works like a charm. I don't understand why you are having such a hard time setting the blades....? bill
The problem is when you get old you can't see as good as you used to. Problem two is when you torque the blades down they tend to ride up a little. Its hard to tell how much to leave them low before you torque them. If the jointer had a adjustable rear table it wouldn't be so critical how the blades were set.
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post #15 of 17 Old 02-09-2012, 11:33 PM
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The problem is when you get old you can't see as good as you used to. Problem two is when you torque the blades down they tend to ride up a little. Its hard to tell how much to leave them low before you torque them. If the jointer had a adjustable rear table it wouldn't be so critical how the blades were set.
Well, you can always get some glasses to solve issue one.
As far as the blades changing height when tightening them, they should rest on the jack screws at the correct height. Then snug the gib screws just slightly one at a time, evenly. Check with the bar after tightening them. Usually they won't change. I used mine again today and it's slick as goose poop in a rain filled barnyard. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #16 of 17 Old 02-11-2012, 12:48 AM
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Well, you can always get some glasses to solve issue one.
As far as the blades changing height when tightening them, they should rest on the jack screws at the correct height. Then snug the gib screws just slightly one at a time, evenly. Check with the bar after tightening them. Usually they won't change. I used mine again today and it's slick as goose poop in a rain filled barnyard. bill
I have glasses but they only help so much. Maybe I got a lemon but the knives have lifted off the jack screws every time I've changed the blades for the last 40 years. My only hope is if it were to decide to retire. I'm too cheap to replace a machine that still works. I'm beginning to think I will probably retire before it does.
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post #17 of 17 Old 02-11-2012, 04:32 AM
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Maybe..

On my old jointer, the gib screws are perpendicular to the cutter head, so when you tighten them they pull everything downward. On the newer ones they are horizontal and yes, they may want to lift the blades up. I've got a Craftsman jointer like that also.
I sure would like to see you have better results, but other than keeping some pressure on the knives as you tighten the screws I can't offer much from here. Sorry. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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