Clausing 3110 Table saw - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 05-27-2012, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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Clausing 3110 Table saw

I just found and bought an old Clausing model 3110 cabinet saw in great condition with a 52" Unifence and Uniguard. It was a school shop saw. Maybe not "bought" as much as STOLE for $150. Some times I get lucky............

I have a few questions for all of you out there with experience enough to answer. First, this beast has a 3/4" arbor. The blade on it appears to be a Jet 60T, kinda ragged. I like my Ridgid blade and want to use it - has anyone ever drilled out a 5/8' arbor blade to 3/4" with success?

Second, the 52" unifence is great, but is way too long to work in my shop the way it's set up. My thought is to cut the extension table and rail enough to move around comfortably, but still have 36 to 40" rip capacity. I've never had need for more than about 30" anyway. Has any one ever done this kind of surgery on a unifence?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated! BTW, the Uniguard will not be used, so if anyone is interested, it's going cheap!

BW
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post #2 of 18 Old 05-27-2012, 04:31 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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I have cut the Unifence to suit

Then I wished I hadn't... The black portion on the left is the same as the aluminum portion on the right just a different color.
I had thought like you at some point I would only need 30" for ripping 4' X 8' panels and that was true. Then when I siamesed these saws together I wished it was back to the longer length. I made my own threaded nuts for inside the track by grinding Unistrut spring nuts to suit.... of course. What else would I use on a Unifence?



I would not drill out an saw arbor hole. I would have it reamed out by a machine shop. 3/4" bores are not very common, but if you accumulate some blades and brought them in all at once the set up charges would be minimized. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 05-27-2012 at 08:43 PM.
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post #3 of 18 Old 05-27-2012, 05:07 PM
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A lot of saw sharpening operations are set up to open up the arbor hole, I'd check with a few of them. Drilling it out yourself successfully would be tough to do unless you have some machining equipment.

"I long for the days when coke was a cola and a joint was a bad place to be" (Merle Haggard)
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post #4 of 18 Old 05-27-2012, 05:19 PM
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Agreed have a saw sharpener bore the hole for you BUT only if the blade can be brought back to good shape. There are places to order blades with pretty much any arbor size, which is obviuosly the way to go in the future.
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post #5 of 18 Old 05-27-2012, 05:31 PM
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A drill bit in thin metal, exsiting hole= big mess.
A vertical mill with an offset boring head will do it.

I am thinking of getting a more sturdy saw some time in the future.
I have come across heavy saws with large arbors. The bigger they are the less they cost in my observations, in my area anyway.
The one concern I have with these large saws is the cost of big blades and, some seem to need a big blade to get the same height of a regular 10" size saw.
One monster saw, had a direct drive 10hp 3phase motor, it appeared that a 10" blade would not protrude much above the table top.

Anyway, I found a photo of the Clausing, it appears to be a more managable size.

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoind...l.aspx?id=3290

Clausing made and imported some very good equipment.
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post #6 of 18 Old 05-27-2012, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benny Blanco View Post
The one concern I have with these large saws is the cost of big blades and, some seem to need a big blade to get the same height of a regular 10" size saw.
One monster saw, had a direct drive 10hp 3phase motor, it appeared that a 10" blade would not protrude much above the table top.

.
The direct drive TS are the worst in terms of blades, many need 16-18" blades to get resonable cutting height.

A 16" blade is going to run about 40% more than the same 10".

Bigger saws can be cheaper, even on the smaller end. When people are looking for a Uni or PM66 I often suggest a Delta 12-14 or a PM 72 they usually sell for less money and are bigger heavier built saws.
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post #7 of 18 Old 05-27-2012, 08:47 PM
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Blackwater,

I cut my used Unifence's fence shorter (against everyone's advice). It had a worn area at the lower front edge from having a lot of sheet goods run past it. I took the worn part off (6"-8") and now use it as a stop block for when I'm doing cut-offs with my miter gauge. I take the regular fence off, put the short piece in its place. and then I can use the fence's gauge to set the length of my cut pieces. Works great!

I marked the fence carefully, cut it with a hack saw with a coarse tooth blade and then took the burrs and saw marks off with a file when done. All is good!

If you don't think you'll ever have any reason to cut a 4x8' sheet of plywood in half, then go ahead and cut the rail. A better idea might be to place an ad in the classifieds here or on OWWM and see if someone would swap you for a shorter rail.

Bill
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post #8 of 18 Old 05-27-2012, 08:49 PM
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Forrest will make their blades with different borings for a small fee. They will also reborn others blades as part of a sharpening, if you ask them too.

So far as cutting your fence: I would look on eBay for a set of short rails and save the long ones just in case.

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post #9 of 18 Old 06-09-2012, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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Clausing table saw - up and running!

A week or so ago I posted questions concerning the Clausing 3110 I just bought - $150 was too good to pass up, and it came with a Unifence and a Uniguard (which I can't use - so if anyone is interested....). It was an old high school shop machine, and one of my clients sold it to me for what he paid for it!

A few issues came about, the first being getting that 600# monster into my shop! Lucky I have a big strong neighbor kid to help! The second was the Unifence - no way was that going to work with my shop setup, and it scared me to no ends to do surgery on the rail and the extension table. I did it with (so far) no problems.

I spent the day getting everything set up, adjusting, tweaking...... knowing I had to wait on my phase converter. This machine has a 2HP 3 phase motor. I found a PC on Ebay for $70 and got it in 3 days. Another 1/2 day and...........it works!

I have yet to put it through its paces, but so far it's what I had hoped for! Not bad for a 70 year old machine!
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post #10 of 18 Old 06-10-2012, 01:51 AM
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Looks nice!
Clausing equipment has a good reputation, their small drill presses, milling machines, and metal lathes are highly sought after.
I just didnt know they made, or had made a table saw, appears to be a somewhat rare item.
I would like to hear how this works out for you.

If you have a static phase converter, you will get about 2/3 of the motor hp.
If it bogs down on you, you can use most any 2hp 3phase motor as an idler, then have closer to full hp.

Last edited by Benny Blanco; 06-10-2012 at 01:57 AM.
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post #11 of 18 Old 08-18-2012, 03:05 PM
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Congrats on making a GREAT buy! I have one as well and love it. I got my blade from Forrest, they opened up the hole to 3/4th before they sharpened it. You got that saw for sooooo little what matters what the blade cost, around $130 encluding shipping, awesome blade. Clausing was a brand name owned by Atlas Press and was manufatured by them. Atlas Press is now Clausing Industrial, but does not supply parts for the saw. I'd also suggest gettin John White's book on how to set up and adjust shop tools, he offers easy and inexpensive ways to make jigs for setting up most wood shop power tools, you can get a copy from Fine Woodworking mag. You will come to love this saw above all else, 'cept maybe your wife:).
Bob
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post #12 of 18 Old 01-07-2013, 11:03 PM
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New (to me) Saw

Yesterday I purchased a Clausing 10", 1.5 hp table saw from craigslist. Unfortunately it did not come with a fence or miter guage. If anyone knows the whereabouts of an original fence or miter guage, I would be interested in purchasing it.
Marty
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post #13 of 18 Old 01-08-2013, 11:48 AM
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Clausing miter guage

I have a Clausing miter gauge, not sure how to make this private.
Bob
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post #14 of 18 Old 01-09-2013, 10:21 AM
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Miter Guage

I am interested in purchasing it. Please let me know price. Shipping to 63038. My email address is [email protected]
Marty
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post #15 of 18 Old 09-02-2014, 01:58 PM
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Not sure if you are still looking for the orginal fence for your saw, but I bought the same saw off craigslist as well couple years ago and it came with the original fence and a new shop fox T fence. I would be happy to sell the original fence to you for cheap if you are still interested.
Stefan
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post #16 of 18 Old 03-04-2015, 03:02 AM
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3110, 1.5 hp w fence for $300

Hi folks,
I just got the chance to snag one of these for $300. Does that seen like a reasonable price? It seems good to me, but I haven't dealt in vintage power tools much before. Would appreciate any input, or notes on what to watch out for when I go see it.

Has the original fence, switch, and one table extension. Does not have the miter.

Thanks
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post #17 of 18 Old 03-04-2015, 06:46 AM
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Interesting thread, I've always related Clausing with metalworking, especially lathes. I never knew they made woodworking equipment.
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post #18 of 18 Old 04-28-2019, 08:13 PM
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I have the Clausing 3110 also. I'd like to put a blade guard and dust collector on the top side. Do you have any knowledge about a blade guard for the Clausing? My table has a bolt on the back side of the blade where it looks like something would have been attached.

I'd prefer to buy something rather than fabricate it.

John
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