Buying my first decent saw - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 36 Old 02-16-2016, 08:59 PM
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I have an incra 1000 miter gauge which is great, although pretty expensive. Almost all factory table saw miter gauges suck, so I wouldn't let that influence you.
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post #22 of 36 Old 02-16-2016, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Buying my first decent saw

More than likely I'll just end up building a crosscut sled cut my miters on my miter saw for now. I had planned on just leaving the 50t Diablo on there since I already have it. I've had very good luck with it so far. But I do need a dedicated ripping blade also, probably just going to stick with the Diablo line unless someone has a better suggestion.

I have a dial indicator didn't have time today to get it perfect.

I was looking at the Kreg miter gauges earlier are they any good? I can buy one of those locally and get a discount on it.

And for the ZCI I was going to order one of the phenolic ones from Rockler along with a Micro Jig Splitter kit.


Matt

Last edited by hig789; 02-16-2016 at 09:23 PM.
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post #23 of 36 Old 02-16-2016, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hig789
More than likely I'll just end up building a crosscut sled cut my miters on my miter saw for now. I had planned on just leaving the 50t Diablo on there since I already have it. I've had very good luck with it so far. But I do need a dedicated ripping blade also, probably just going to stick with the Diablo line unless someone has a better suggestion. I have a dial indicator didn't have time today to get it perfect. I was looking at the Kreg miter gauges earlier are they any good? I can buy one of those locally and get a discount on it. And for the ZCI I was going to order one of the phenolic ones from Rockler along with a Micro Jig Splitter kit. Matt
Woodcraft has a wide selection of table saw inserts made by Leecraft. You might find a better fit, maybe not, just may want to look. Most are in the $25-$35 range.

Out of curiosity I look for Stopsaw, not on the list. Stopsaw probably threatens lawsuit so they can continue to sell those $120 inserts.
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post #24 of 36 Old 02-16-2016, 10:41 PM
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Why would you buy a ZCI? You could make one on 10 minutes, and wouldn't have to pay $30 for the privilege

I need cheaper hobby
etsy.com/shop/projectepicfail
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post #25 of 36 Old 02-17-2016, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epicfail48 View Post
Why would you buy a ZCI? You could make one on 10 minutes, and wouldn't have to pay $30 for the privilege

Well I just figured it would be more durable than a hardwood one and mine needs a 3/16 thick one. I don't have a planer or anything to size it. I do have some 1/4 plywood though that's about the same size that I'll probably give a try today. Would acrylic or G10 work too? I have 1/4" in both that I could put in and sand to flat with my palm sander. G10 would be ideal for the durability but I worried about the blade being dulled some when cutting through it. It's pretty much strong fiberglass. I'd also have to find a way to hold it down during normal use also since my original uses a clip under that little tab.


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post #26 of 36 Old 02-17-2016, 09:15 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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Use 3/16" hardboard

This sheet is larger than you'll need but it's available at Home Depot.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hardboard...2780/202404545

Use the hardboard for the insert in the saw table, but back it up with another layer which fits the larger opening for strength OR use a different material which is thicker for greater strength. The 2 layers of 3/16" would provide all the support you need in my opinion. By using two different layers it will be easy to fit each one separately, then glue them together.

I believe Lexan comes in 3/16" thickness and that would be super strong!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/lexan-polyca...MAAOxyjNlR0XsM

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 02-17-2016 at 09:53 AM.
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post #27 of 36 Old 02-17-2016, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
This sheet is larger than you'll need but it's available at Home Depot.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hardboard...2780/202404545

Use the hardboard for the insert in the saw table, but back it up with another layer which fits the larger opening for strength OR use a different material which is thicker for greater strength. The 2 layers of 3/16" would provide all the support you need in my opinion. By using two different layer it will be easy to fit either one separately then glue them together.

I believe Lexan comes in 3/16" thickness and that would be super strong!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/lexan-polyca...MAAOxyjNlR0XsM

So they just lay in there during normal use? No screws or anything to hold them down?


Matt
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post #28 of 36 Old 02-17-2016, 09:56 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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Nope!

Quote:
Originally Posted by hig789 View Post
So they just lay in there during normal use? No screws or anything to hold them down?


Matt
On my Craftsman saws there is a hook spring at the rear and a countersunk hole for a screw on the front. You hook the spring in first then settle the plate down in and screw it down. A "floating" plate would be a hazard, in my opinion.

I found a 3/16" strip of hardboard and may attempt to make one of my own today .... we'll see.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #29 of 36 Old 02-17-2016, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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On my Craftsman saws there is a hook spring at the rear and a countersunk hole for a screw on the front. You hook the spring in first then settle the plate down in and screw it down. A "floating" plate would be a hazard, in my opinion.

I found a 3/16" strip of hardboard and may attempt to make one of my own today .... we'll see.

Yeah I don't think there is a hole in my top. It has a spring like your in the back it in the front it has a latch built into it. I'll figure something out to hold it down.


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post #30 of 36 Old 02-17-2016, 10:13 AM
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Consider going on line to find some of the "after market" TS distributors and ebay sellers that may have parts to improve your "new" saw. Having the model number of your TS can help narrow the search. Enjoy making your saw dust, and be safe.
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post #31 of 36 Old 02-17-2016, 05:22 PM
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I usually cut my insert profile out of just about anything and then take a router to step the 3/16" dimension. I've made several out of 1/2" plywood that I have laminated with Formica. Slick little devils they are!

Were it me and my "new" saw, I'd be ordering an aftermarket fence before worrying about a miter gauge (which is what I did do):

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...FYJDaQodRYQGWQ

They may possibly be had for less, but that's the ticket.

Another $000,000,000.02 worth of advice,
Mark
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post #32 of 36 Old 02-17-2016, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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Buying my first decent saw

I believe I was looking at one of those on Craigslist earlier. I've never had a nice fence before, what advantages does that one have over mine?


The fence on my saw locks down rock solid every time and is nice and square. I took it apart and cleaned and oiled it. It's very smooth now. It just slides across the top of the table though, do the nicer ones float above the table?


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post #33 of 36 Old 02-17-2016, 08:47 PM
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Yes, the "nice" fences glide effortlessly and do not touch the table. If you are comfortable with what you have and it will STAY parallel, cool beans! But since I mostly only rip on my table saw, the fence is much more important to me than any other device or jig. I have an Incra miter gauge, but I can hardly remember the last time I used it.

Another $000,000,000.02 worth of advice,
Mark
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post #34 of 36 Old 02-17-2016, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shop_Rat View Post
Yes, the "nice" fences glide effortlessly and do not touch the table. If you are comfortable with what you have and it will STAY parallel, cool beans! But since I mostly only rip on my table saw, the fence is much more important to me than any other device or jig. I have an Incra miter gauge, but I can hardly remember the last time I used it.

Thanks. Yeah maybe I'll get me one sometime soon, but I'm going to use this one for a little while and see how it does. At least I can move a new one to another saw in the future.

I need to clean up the miter gauge a little more but I plan on mainly using the saw for cross cutting and ripping.


Matt
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post #35 of 36 Old 02-18-2016, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Well after watching a few videos on YouTube about squaring up the blade By loosening all the table bolts I decided I'd do it. After loosing all the table bolts and about 30 min the blade was in the same spot if not worse than it was. I've been a tool and die maker for 15 years so I've squared up plenty of parts and vises and it had me confused as all get out.

Did a little looking on the 113 series I found that you just loosen the trunnions haha. So needless to say after I tightened all the bolts back up except the end the trunnion that was off I was done in about 5 min.

Oh well. Learn something new everyday I guess.


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post #36 of 36 Old 02-18-2016, 12:25 PM
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Lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by hig789 View Post
Did a little looking on the 113 series I found that you just loosen the trunnions haha. So needless to say after I tightened all the bolts back up except the end the trunnion that was off I was done in about 5 min.

Oh well. Learn something new everyday I guess.


Matt

You applied the correct procedure to the wrong patient, not the first to do that nor the last. Hospitals do this routinely ... oops ... wrong leg amputated, wrong kidney removed etc. LOL.

Never loosen all the bolts regardless. Just loosen all but the pivot bolt which could be either at the front or at the rear depending on which way the carriage needs to rotate. :smile3:

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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