Blades for Ripping 8/4 Maple with Skil Model 77 Wormdrive - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 06-26-2020, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
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Blades for Ripping 8/4 Maple with Skil Model 77 Wormdrive

I have acquired some slabs of rough sawn maple, 2" thick that I want to cut down, primarily ripping so I can work with it further. I think my best option is to rip it in successively deeper cuts with my Skil Model 77 wormdrive circular saw. To do this, I intend to get a couple new blades. The blade on it is the original and at the very least is in need of sharpening. My table saw is a jobsite model and while not really up to this task, managing these slabs that way is not feasible - 24"x120". The only power hand tools, other than the Skil, I have that are even close are a DeWalt 60V chainsaw and a Dewalt sawsall.

What are the best blades for this work? I use Forrest WWII on my talbe saw and love them, but it seems they do not sell this size/type of blade, at least I couldn't find them on their website. I've read some recommendations for using thin kerf blades with references to Freud/Diablo and some others.

I would use a good straight edge to guide the Skil saw and would try taking 1" deep cuts to see if it can be done in two passes.

Thanks,

Rick

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post #2 of 10 Old 06-26-2020, 06:14 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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That's a great saw!

I had the same issue, ripping a 2 1/4" Maple bench top. I made the cut in two passes using my 8 1/4" Skil sidewinder from the '60's. The problem with making two passes is the sawdust is trapped in the kerf until the blade rotates 90 degrees to spit it out. This may cause the blade to overheat and warp, so go slow. A full through cut, made in one pass would eliminate this problem, BUT that a lot of wood to remove all at once, so you need to go even slower. You'll know by the sound and the amount of feed pressure what is required.


I'd use this blade on your saw:
https://www.amazon.com/Freud-D0724W-.../dp/B0026SIKUQ

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #3 of 10 Old 06-26-2020, 11:45 AM
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I agree Freud makes good blades... But I would want to use a rip blade not a combination cut blade.

Gary

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post #4 of 10 Old 06-26-2020, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmercer_48083 View Post
I agree Freud makes good blades... But I would want to use a rip blade not a combination cut blade.
I agree, but are rip blades made in this size? I've not found any with fewer than 24 teeth and these are described as either "framing" or "combo" blades.

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post #5 of 10 Old 06-26-2020, 12:44 PM
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After looking for a ripping 7-1/4" blade... the only ones I would trust for your saw would be the one suggested by Woodnthings. And I aggree with him to use full depth while ripping. I would expect that when cutting your slab, the wood may release tension... so you may want to have wedges handy, to keep the saw kerf open as you do it.

Gary

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Last edited by gmercer_48083; 06-26-2020 at 12:48 PM.
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post #6 of 10 Old 06-26-2020, 04:14 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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A 24 tooth blade is fine for ripping .......

Quote:
Originally Posted by gmercer_48083 View Post
I agree Freud makes good blades... But I would want to use a rip blade not a combination cut blade.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmercer_48083 View Post
After looking for a ripping 7-1/4" blade... the only ones I would trust for your saw would be the one suggested by Woodnthings. And I aggree with him to use full depth while ripping. I would expect that when cutting your slab, the wood may release tension... so you may want to have wedges handy, to keep the saw kerf open as you do it.

There will not be a blade with fewer teeth that 24 unless it's quite old or a specialty application. Here's the info on the blade I posted above:

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #7 of 10 Old 06-26-2020, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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That is the blade that I got. Two.

Thanks,

Rick

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post #8 of 10 Old 06-27-2020, 01:27 AM
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The 24 Tooth Diablo will do the job. Set the saw base so a full tooth or more is below the slab. Make the cut in one pass, a wormdrive Skilsaw can do this easily.
mike
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post #9 of 10 Old 06-27-2020, 10:39 AM
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Tell us how it worked out.

Gary

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post #10 of 10 Old 06-30-2020, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmercer_48083 View Post
Tell us how it worked out.

I will when I get to it. My plans have changed dramatically. I have aborted efforts to use those maple slabs for cutting down into pieces to glue up to make a workbench top. I came to an acceptance of how much work it was going to be and the fact that I have way more to do already than time to do much of it. Instead, I will finish the workbench top that I am just about done with that is a solid core door, that I have varnished and will use it as a utility workbench. And then get another birch veneered solid core door to make into a woodworking workbench. I had thoughts of doing this all along as I worked on both the support frame and top.

I had transported three of the four maple slabs to Portland, OR, to my pattern maker friend's shop. He had expressed interest in using them for making tables and selling them. He wasn't as interested once he saw them. The are just under 2" thick and the two large ones are warped slightly and flattening them will make them too thin for good tables. He will offer them to his woodworking students and/or make some tables of them himself. I just hope I get out of them what I paid, which will just about cover the cost of another solid core door. But I don't really care whether I get anything. It was a mildly costly learning experience.

I did keep the smallest slab and will try cutting it down and seeing if I can get some book-matched pieces to make some small boxes from. It is about 12"x8ft, but is more flat sawn, from the side of a trunk so there will be more wasted "live edge" on the side hidden from the camera.

Plus, it has been raining ever since I returned home, four days, so there has been no way for me to work on it, as I plan to do the ripping with the circular saw in my driveway.

Rick
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