Bevel cutting with 45 degree chamfer bit - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 11-29-2009, 02:11 AM Thread Starter
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Bevel cutting with 45 degree chamfer bit

Hello! I have a question regarding chamfer bits. I have stock that is 3/4" thick and I need to make a 45 degree bevel crosscut on each side of the stock. I have a chamfer bit that is only 1 1/4" diameter and can only cut total thickness (with angle) of 1/2". The problem is I need my angle to start at the very bottom edge of the wood and cut clear to the top of the stock. I am having problems finding a bit that can bevel the entire edge of the piece of stock. I prefer to not use a table saw.

Regarding where the bearing will run, I was intending on using two pieces of the 3/4" stock and having the bottom piece be the guide for the bearing and making the top my work piece, this would allow me to cut the entire top piece edge. Does anyone know the proper size chamfer bit that will allow me to do this? Thanks!

Last edited by MONOLITH; 11-29-2009 at 02:14 AM.
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post #2 of 7 Old 11-29-2009, 03:42 AM
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This one should work

http://www.grizzly.com/products/45-C...1-8-Dia-/C1135
The problem is going to be that you've routed away the surface for a bearing to ride on unless you use 2 pieces as you mentioned. A router table would be required, so you can use the fence rather than a bearing type bit, or a guide for the base plate of the router if handheld. JMO. bill
Curious how wide is the stock and would'nt it be way easier to use a table saw?

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 11-29-2009 at 03:47 AM.
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post #3 of 7 Old 11-29-2009, 04:06 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you! Thats exactly what I was looking for. The stock is 8" wide and 25" long, both sides need the bevel, baltic birch ply. The reason I don't want to use a table saw is, my table saw is not as accurate as a machined router bit would be in my case. I have a nice router setup but trying to save up some bucks for a very nice table saw setup. My saw can get close but for now I need to go the router route. Thank you so much for your help. I am looking forward to referencing and contributing to this forum, lots of good stuff here!

Last edited by MONOLITH; 11-29-2009 at 04:09 AM.
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post #4 of 7 Old 11-29-2009, 07:53 AM
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Using a router bit for a complete edge chamfer entails a few details. If the stock is full, where as the cutting length of the bit isn't longer than the edge would be at a 45 deg angle, you'll have a little bead left. Referencing the bearing requires setting the depth of cut to allow for the distance from the bearing to the cutting flute (using a reference board).

If you want to do this on a router table, safe operating says not to trap the workpiece between the bit and the fence. IOW, the bit should be positioned within the fence line. In doing this and achieving a complete angle cut along the edge, some has to come off the pointy edge that's riding on the fence. This will change the width of the piece somewhat.

It might be faster and more accurate to do the cut on the TS. Spend a few minutes to get the angle right, use an appropriate blade, and do the cut in one slow pass.






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post #5 of 7 Old 11-29-2009, 09:15 AM
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Yup, what cabinetman said...BTDT. Bought the whole set of chamfering bits from I think Lee Valley a few years ago. They all work great for 1/2" thick stock but not for 3/4".
TS and patince for the setup...lots of scrap stock to play with.

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post #6 of 7 Old 11-29-2009, 11:55 AM
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Monolith: take the time to make a sled for the TS, this way you always have an easy means to do this cut. If your saw is right tilt than make ur sled to the LEFT of the blade, of course the opposite if LEFT tilt.
Once made all you have to do is cut the first edge, flip it, mark your overall length and cut to the line. Do NOT use your fence as a stop!!!! keep the blade and offcut free from any interference.
If you have many pcs of same size then make the sled long enuf so you can put a stop block on it. IF that is the case cut ALL on one end FIRST then put on stop and cut to size.
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post #7 of 7 Old 11-29-2009, 12:14 PM
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One other thing you might do is trim off some of the edge with the TS before using the router so there will be less wood for the bit to remove and less chance of tearout. As far as the difference in size as to removing the bearing guide and if using a router table, use the same setup as you would for jointing on the table with a spacer under the trailng fence face.
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