best router table for the money? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 08-17-2014, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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best router table for the money?

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Rout...h-Stand/T10432

is that the king? I dont have a grand to spend on a super duper router table, and to be honest, I would build my own, but since my last and only table was a worthless bench top craftsman from the 80's, I wouldnt even know what I should want.

price seems good, will I quickly find it unable to perform some common function?
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post #2 of 16 Old 08-18-2014, 01:03 AM
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I have a plan coming out for a shop built router lift and table. In this day and age why would anyone buy a table. They are just to easy to build and better in many ways.

Al


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post #3 of 16 Old 08-18-2014, 01:14 AM
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Looks to me like a lot to spend for not very much. Id suggest trying to build your own. Youd save some money and be able to add of features you need as needed. As far as design goes, id check our some old back issues of ShopNotes Magazine. Issue #85 has plans for a pretty good table that has all the same features as the grizzly one you linked to seems to have, along with a full set of storage drawers and cabinets in the base that you can make from a single sheet of 1/2 ply
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post #4 of 16 Old 08-18-2014, 01:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bauerbach
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Rout...h-Stand/T10432

is that the king? I dont have a grand to spend on a super duper router table, and to be honest, I would build my own, but since my last and only table was a worthless bench top craftsman from the 80's, I wouldnt even know what I should want.

price seems good, will I quickly find it unable to perform some common function?
To answer you your last question. The Griz will work just fine. But the fit and finish may not be up to your standards. The fact that the router is hanging from the top will probably make the top sag and make it useless over time. You can build that table in a heart beat for far less money. There are better fences out there. I have never seen one that worked well in this price range.

Al


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post #5 of 16 Old 08-18-2014, 08:38 AM
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Same here...............make your own. Cheaper, you can make it as large or small as you want. Make the fence the way you want. Mae the cabinet the way you want. Also, hones up skills you might not have (making a template and routing template for insert for example)

But, to answer your question: that table will work.
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post #6 of 16 Old 08-18-2014, 09:36 AM
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I have that table it works for me no complaints
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post #7 of 16 Old 08-18-2014, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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problem is, I dont know how I want the table to be.

this was my prior router table


except thats not mine... mine had no fence... and the surface was warped.

I figure I could buy a sheet of plywood, a sheet of laminate. a few T tracks, some assorted knobs, and a router plate, Id probably spend the same and be lucky if it came out as good. I know I could get alot more custom with it, but I feel like I could spend a year or 2 with a "simple" table, learn all the things it cant do that I dont know about yet, and then build my own...

I have read the mount may sag, but some cleats should resolve that issue.
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post #8 of 16 Old 08-18-2014, 11:11 AM
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I agree

Quote:
Originally Posted by bauerbach View Post
p.

I figure I could buy a sheet of plywood, a sheet of laminate. a few T tracks, some assorted knobs, and a router plate, Id probably spend the same and be lucky if it came out as good. I know I could get alot more custom with it, but I feel like I could spend a year or 2 with a "simple" table, learn all the things it cant do that I dont know about yet, and then build my own...
.

The Grizzly is a lot of table for the money. You get 2 inserts, a fence and stand. The inserts are the issue with any shop built table, not only the plate to support the router, but the circular ones that fit into the support plate. You can't just make those, because they have locking ears. You can make different size holes in several plates, but then you need to transfer your router each time you want to change bit diameters....PITA. I'd go with the Grizzly for now and it will do everything you need. If later on you want to upgrade you will have got your money's worth.
This: http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2014/Main/382

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #9 of 16 Old 08-18-2014, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
The Grizzly is a lot of table for the money. You get 2 inserts, a fence and stand. The inserts are the issue with any shop built table, not only the plate to support the router, but the circular ones that fit into the support plate. You can't just make those, because they have locking ears. You can make different size holes in several plates, but then you need to transfer your router each time you want to change bit diameters....PITA. I'd go with the Grizzly for now and it will do everything you need. If later on you want to upgrade you will have got your money's worth.
Easily solved. Inserts can be held with a couple small flat head screws. Made two inserts for my shop made table. Nice thing about a shop made table - if you don't like some aspect of what you built, no qualms modifying it.
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post #10 of 16 Old 08-18-2014, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al B Thayer View Post
To answer you your last question. The Griz will work just fine. But the fit and finish may not be up to your standards. The fact that the router is hanging from the top will probably make the top sag and make it useless over time. You can build that table in a heart beat for far less money. There are better fences out there. I have never seen one that worked well in this price range.

Al
"The fact that the router is hanging from the top will probably make the top sag and make it useless over time."

What knowledge do you have for you to make this statement. I see nothing in the specifications that would lead me to this conclusion. I do not know of any router tables where the router does not hand from the top.

George
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post #11 of 16 Old 08-18-2014, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeC

"The fact that the router is hanging from the top will probably make the top sag and make it useless over time."

What knowledge do you have for you to make this statement. I see nothing in the specifications that would lead me to this conclusion. I do not know of any router tables where the router does not hand from the top.

George
I currently have two designs that mount in a lift which mounts to the side of the router table. Not the top. It's far easier to use and you can make the top out of thinner material with more choices to make it out of.

There are a few that have been showcased here and on the net. One is from American Woodworker Magazine. That's where I got my inspiration to design and build my table from. Now I have a lift that holds the router vertical or horizontal. Which I believe is a first. Very handy. I'll be offering the duel lift plans soon.


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This is the single position unit I built a few years ago. Look how easy it is to change the bits. Very accurate and micro adjusts from the top even while running if you choose. No table top sag here.

Al


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post #12 of 16 Old 08-18-2014, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings

The Grizzly is a lot of table for the money. You get 2 inserts, a fence and stand. The inserts are the issue with any shop built table, not only the plate to support the router, but the circular ones that fit into the support plate. You can't just make those, because they have locking ears. You can make different size holes in several plates, but then you need to transfer your router each time you want to change bit diameters....PITA. I'd go with the Grizzly for now and it will do everything you need. If later on you want to upgrade you will have got your money's worth.
This: http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2014/Main/382
My router table takes care of all the PITA and then some. Cost pennies.

Al


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post #13 of 16 Old 08-18-2014, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bauerbach
problem is, I dont know how I want the table to be.

this was my prior router table

except thats not mine... mine had no fence... and the surface was warped.

I figure I could buy a sheet of plywood, a sheet of laminate. a few T tracks, some assorted knobs, and a router plate, Id probably spend the same and be lucky if it came out as good. I know I could get alot more custom with it, but I feel like I could spend a year or 2 with a "simple" table, learn all the things it cant do that I dont know about yet, and then build my own...

I have read the mount may sag, but some cleats should resolve that issue.
The first router table I made was out of a sink cutout. I used it till it fell apart. It was very handy. I just clamped it to my bench and dropped the router in it with an oversized base. That was 30 years ago. There are hundreds of styles to build but I've never seen a table for sale under $200 that was worth spending the money on. Some don't even come flat out of the box.

Al


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post #14 of 16 Old 08-18-2014, 07:35 PM
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that center hole is quite small..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Al B Thayer View Post
My router table takes care of all the PITA and then some. Cost pennies.

Al


The hole in your table top appears to be 7/8" or so.
How do you run a 2 1/4" profile bit like this panel raiser without a removable insert with different hole diameters? I do like the tip up table for ease of bit changing.


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #15 of 16 Old 08-18-2014, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings



The hole in your table top appears to be 7/8" or so.
How do you run a 2 1/4" profile bit like this panel raiser without a removable insert with different hole diameters? I do like the tip up table for ease of bit changing.
It's 2". I use my bigass shaper. Haven't had the need to. My table doesn't do the big work. But the new table will have more than one insert and I will spend only the price of the rabbiting bit on it.

BTW I never said a person shouldn't buy a plate with inserts. It's a good idea when you don't have the hot setup like mine.

Al


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post #16 of 16 Old 08-18-2014, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bauerbach View Post
problem is, I dont know how I want the table to be.

this was my prior router table


except thats not mine... mine had no fence... and the surface was warped.

I figure I could buy a sheet of plywood, a sheet of laminate. a few T tracks, some assorted knobs, and a router plate, Id probably spend the same and be lucky if it came out as good. I know I could get alot more custom with it, but I feel like I could spend a year or 2 with a "simple" table, learn all the things it cant do that I dont know about yet, and then build my own...

I have read the mount may sag, but some cleats should resolve that issue.
I think you are on the right track. I went through 3 tables before I settled on what I wanted it to do and what I wanted to do with it. What I ended up with was a purchased table with a bunch of mods.
What a shop built table ends up costing depends a lot on where you live and the availability of materials. Where I live, virtually everything has shipping associated with it and plastic laminate for a top is only available in full sheets. No "custom" cabinet shops for offcuts in a reasonable days travel. The Grizzly table does have some shortcomings but overall is a pretty good buy for a starter table and you would be able to get started with it right away.

John

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