I have a SawStop cabinet saw and an old Delta bandsaw that I like very much. I will not vote in your poll. The choice is too personal, and there is not enough information. Here are a few considerations that may help:
I would not consider a bandsaw to be safer than a table saw. The dangers are different, but an injury from either tool can be very serious. When I bought my bandsaw, the club's "bandsaw mentor" came over to help me check it out, set it up, and give me tips. He reminded me that bandsaws got their start in the meat industry, and he commented, "Bandsaws want
to get back to their roots, so they try
to go after your flesh." It may be a facetious aphorism, but I think about it every time I turn on that bandsaw.
(By the way, the most recent injury in our woodworking club happened last week, when a very experienced member cut an inch off his thumb on a bandsaw. The bandsaw blade pulled his thumb in, making it worse.)
Storage Footprint and Maneuverability:
You seem concerned about "shop space and maneuverability." For me, a major factor in choosing the SawStop cabinet saw over the SawStop contractor saw is that the cabinet saw storage footprint is less. That's because the contractor saw has a big motor sticking out the back. Here is a useful link comparing features of the two saws:
A bandsaw has a very small footprint compared with a table saw. That's good when you consider storage space. Between the table saw and the bandsaw, the bandsaw is much scarier to move around. That's because it is both heavy and
top heavy over that small footprint. I am very cautious to maintain strong "tip control" over the bandsaw when I move it, because it can become unstable when rolling over the smallest crack. In contrast, the table saw is low and stable when moved.
Changing blades on a table saw is quick and easy. If you use a general purpose or combination blade as many people do, you may not switch blades often. Even if you use dedicated rip blades and crosscut blades, changing them does not take long.
Changing blades on a bandsaw takes much longer. There is an alignment process that must be done for each blade - blade position on the tire, tension, thrust bearings, guide blocks or bearings, etc. You may need to change bandsaw blades more often, too. See "Blade Types", below.
You can buy a general purpose or combination blade for your table saw and use it for everything. Sure, it is a compromise compared with dedicated rip and combination blades, but that compromise still yields a very high quality cut.
(I have three different general purpose blades. One is used most of the time. One is reserved for special projects where I want the cleanest, best cuts. One is a thin kerf, and it also has a raker tooth for leaving flat non-through cuts. Another reason for multiple blades is that I assume that one may be out for resharpening.)
There is no real "general purpose" blade for a bandsaw. You will want or need a variety of blades, depending on the wood thickness and the kind of cut you will make. If you are cutting thin wood, you want more teeth per inch (TPI). If you are cutting thick wood, you will want fewer TPI. If you are cutting tight curves, you will want a narrow blade. If you are cutting wide curves or making straight cuts, you may prefer a wider blade. If you are resawing a board, you will want the widest blade that your bandsaw supports. I didn't go out and count, but I bet I have a dozen bandsaw blades.
Cut Quality and Blade Durability:
Table saws have long lasting blades with carbide tips that make very clean, straight cuts. Saw marks from table saw blades vary from invisible to very fine, and they are easy to clean up. The better quality table saw blades have thick carbide tips that are worth resharpening multiple times. A good blade sharpener returns your blade in like new condition.
Most bandsaw blades do not have carbide tips. Generally speaking, bandsaw blades are relatively inexpensive and are not resharpened. They are not durable compared with table saw blades and occasionally break during use. (Remember, the steel band flexes all the time as it passes over the wheels.)
Bandsaw blades have a "set" in the teeth that leaves more prominent saw marks - a lot of vertical lines in the wood. When I use the bandsaw, I expect another processing step to remove the saw marks. Sometimes it can be a real hassle, especially if you are trying to remove bandsaw marks from narrow curve cuts in thick wood.
You can buy bandsaw blades with carbide teeth or carbide tips. I do not own one. They are expensive, but they can be resharpened. I have been told that they leave a much cleaner cut compared with standard bandsaw blades. They are commonly sold as resaw blades, but some are useful for straight cuts. They might be worth the cost if you lack a table saw or do a lot of resawing. They are especially good for very thin resaws - veneers.
Not Mentioned in your Pros and Cons Lists:
* Table saws can be used with dado stacks to make dados, rabbets, and box joints.
* Table saws can be used for resawing, but are limited to the height of the blade. Even if you use a thin kerf blade, you will lose much more wood than a bandsaw. When you resaw with a table saw, you must take precautions to handle the wood safely.
* Bandsaws may have a small footprint, but they still require space and material support for larger cuts, like rip cutting a board.