Bandsaw blade for resawing?... - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 11-23-2008, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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Bandsaw blade for resawing?...

Hi Folks.

Looking for some advise on picking a blade for resawing. I've been using Timber Wolf and not too happy with them. I have a Craftsman Pro 22401. It takes blades up 3/4 wide, but I've always used 1/2 because they say 14" saw can't properly tension a 3/4 blade. Don't know if that's true or not.

I've heard good things about Highland Woodslicers and Lenox bi-metal. What do you guys like?

While I'm at it, should I be resawing at the lower blade speed (1450 ft/min) or higher speed (3000 ft/min) in hardwoods?

Thanks, Bob.
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post #2 of 16 Old 11-23-2008, 09:30 PM
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Knuckle,
I've had pretty good luck with the timberwolf blades on a 14" jet. For resawing I use a 1/2" also with 3tpi and it seems to work well and track well. If you have a good guide system on your saw, I don't see where a 3/4" blade on a 14" saw is going to help you anymore. Might put more of a drag on the motor. I like the timberwolf also because you don't have to tension them up that much. I am not sure on the speed, mine only runs at one speed and I don't know what that is off the top of my head. I am sure you could check the specs on any of the popular 14" bandsaws and see what kind of blade speed they are running and that should tell you. I would guess its the higher speed of the two. Good luck,
Mike Hawkins
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post #3 of 16 Old 11-23-2008, 09:48 PM
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What don't you like about the Timberwolf blades? I have never heard anything bad about them...

Interested in my woodworking, workshop and whatnot? See http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com, want to see my other interests such as hunting, fishing, off roading, and camping? See http://wildersport-outdoors.blogspot.com
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post #4 of 16 Old 11-23-2008, 09:56 PM
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Are you saying that a 1/2" 3tpi blade works better than a 3/4" 3tpi blade??I am currently using a 3/4" 4tpi on my 14" bandsaw and I'm looking for another blade.This one works fine but if it breaks I will be down for a while. I was looking at Grizzly blades. That's where I have been buying mine in the past.Should I look at 1/2" ones?

Donny
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post #5 of 16 Old 11-23-2008, 10:06 PM
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Hey Donny,
When I bought my bandsaw, the jet rep was there. He is the one that actually told me to use the timberwolf blades, and for resawing on my particular saw, he recommended the 1/2" 3tpi. I use the carter bearings on my saw, but even before I bought them, the saw tracked straight when resawing. So in my case, I don't see any advantage to going to a wider blade, as long as the 1/2" is doing the job. Plus I can still cut smaller circles and radii without changing blades.
Mike Hawkins
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post #6 of 16 Old 11-23-2008, 11:18 PM
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I have a JET 14" bandsaw also, and I'll give you one word of caution, even though it doesn't mention it in the manual. I had a 3/4" blade in mine and left the tension on it all winter. When I went to use the saw in the spring, I turned it on and the saw was makeing a heck of a clanging noise. After investigating the problem I find out the upper wheel axle pivot was bent out and the spokes on the wheel were hiting it. So I ordered a new part and compared it to the old part when it arrived. JET had beefed the new part up considerably were the old part had failed. So anyway I went round and round with JET customer service about detensioning the blade when done with the saw each day, ( like I said before, there was no mention of it in the manual, I'm thinking there is now though ) and also how they must of known it was a weak spot. Ever since that happened, I now allways detension the blade when I'm done for the day, especially the wider blades. Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to just single out JET as the problem, I'm sure many other 14" saws were built like this also.

Last edited by user4178; 11-23-2008 at 11:31 PM.
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post #7 of 16 Old 11-24-2008, 01:05 AM
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Back when I had a 14" saw, a 1/2" 3tpi Timberwolf worked best for me.

Now I use a 3/4" Timberwolf on a 19" saw.
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post #8 of 16 Old 11-24-2008, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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It just seems to me that the Timber Wolf blades dull right away. I have sharpened them with a Dremmel and small chain saw stone, and it cut better than when it was new, but still didn't last very long. Also, I could see the blade jump a hair when the weld went through the guides. By the way, these are all the steel blades, not the "better" ones. Maybe that's my problem.

As far as 1/2" vs 3/4", I've read many times from different sources that most 14" saws can't properly tension a 3/4" blade enought to cut well. That a 1/2" blade will work better. Like I said, I don't know if that's true or not. When I got the saw I tried the 1/4" blade that it came with, and that worked pretty good but dulled real fast.

I always de-tension the blade when I'm done for the day. They say if you don't the tires could be deformed and go out-of-round. One thing I can say about the Craftsman saws..the wheels and spindles/bearings are massive compared to other brands I looked at.
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post #9 of 16 Old 11-24-2008, 01:40 PM
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As far as the blades go, you are the only person I have...

#1. Seen complain about Timberwolf blades.

#2. Mention anything about the steel blades. Most folks use the Silicone Steel blades.

I would consider talking to the guys at Suffolk Machinery if your blades aren't right...

I have heard good things about the Olson blades as well. But good as compared to the OE Grizzly, Craftsman, etc... blades. I have heard Great things about the Timberwolf Silicone Steel blades...

Interested in my woodworking, workshop and whatnot? See http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com, want to see my other interests such as hunting, fishing, off roading, and camping? See http://wildersport-outdoors.blogspot.com
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post #10 of 16 Old 11-24-2008, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Most folks here seem to like Timber Wolf. On a different forum I visit most folks say that woodslicers or lenox cut better and last longer. I've wondered if my technique is wrong, now I'm thinking it probably is.

Another wrinkle is that woodslicers have hardened teeth, and lenox are bi-metal. Been getting Timber Wolf steel blades (silicon steel) from Sufolk Machinery. They also list bi-metal Timber Wolfs but never tried one 'cause they cost more...but not THAT much more. I think they might even have a blade speed chart.

Don't want to beat this thread to death, but I've enjoyed the conversation. Thanks guys.
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post #11 of 16 Old 11-24-2008, 09:50 PM
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Hey KB,
I have never tried a lennox bandsaw blade, but I have used a slew of their sawzall blades. I haven't found anything better for the sawzall. So maybe it would be worth a try.
Mike Hawkins
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post #12 of 16 Old 02-18-2020, 07:16 AM
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I was in Grizzly yesterday. I purchased 2 1" wide with 2 teeth per inch carbon steel resaw blades for my Grizzly 17". I have been resawing lumber out of Spalted Oak Logs that were cut about 1.5 years ago.

I have a stack of 4' long oak boards ranging from 1" to 2" thick. I had to resharpen the 3 tpi flex back 42.00 blade 3 times this weekend. The grit in the bark was dulling the blades very fast. I had better luck with the 23.00 carbon steel blades. 2 tpi. This oak is very hard. Cutting through 11" of it is a feat for the 17" Grizzly yet it does it. I have 3 more 12" round 4' long oak logs with bark on them. Will see how the carbon steel holds up. It has to be better than the flex back. I will say the flex back produced smoother cuts but I don't care about that as I plane these when they are dry. So much variance on blades, saws, wood it's hard to say what is the best blade.
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post #13 of 16 Old 02-18-2020, 08:35 AM
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I resaw up to 9" thick seasoned hardwoods on a 20" Davis & Wells saw with a Highland 3/4" woodslicer. The woodslicer blade is thinner than my other blades, and it puts less stress on the saw frame in thick cuts. It has very little set and is temperamental about cutting straight. The alignment of the fence is critical to keep it from drifting. I resaw veneer at about 0.090", and the thinner blade gives me one or even 2 extra slices in a 1" board. It cuts very smooth and I lose less material surfacing the cuts. It does not tolerate wood with internal tension that binds the cut. I tried a 1/2" blade, but it wobbled more.
I run the saw at 3000fpm with a 3 hp motor. You need to put an efficient chip load on the blade for it to cut shavings rather than dust. Feeding too slow will cause the blade to rub rather than cut and dull it prematurely. If the frame and motor can't handle an efficient feed rate, slow the saw blade down. With 3 tpi, try sawing some 2" stock to get a feel for a good feed rate.
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post #14 of 16 Old 02-18-2020, 09:09 AM
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Grizzly has more than one brand .....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Jones Ozark View Post
I was in Grizzly yesterday. I purchased 2 1" wide with 2 teeth per inch carbon steel resaw blades for my Grizzly 17". I have been resawing lumber out of Spalted Oak Logs that were cut about 1.5 years ago.

I have a stack of 4' long oak boards ranging from 1" to 2" thick. I had to resharpen the 3 tpi flex back 42.00 blade 3 times this weekend. The grit in the bark was dulling the blades very fast. I had better luck with the 23.00 carbon steel blades. 2 tpi. This oak is very hard. Cutting through 11" of it is a feat for the 17" Grizzly yet it does it. I have 3 more 12" round 4' long oak logs with bark on them. Will see how the carbon steel holds up. It has to be better than the flex back. I will say the flex back produced smoother cuts but I don't care about that as I plane these when they are dry. So much variance on blades, saws, wood it's hard to say what is the best blade.

It's like dating, you might have to go through a few women before you find the best one.


Grizzly sells their own brand and Timberwolf brand which I started using for resawing about 15 years ago. I use one like this in 3/4" wide
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Tim...aw-Blade/H8599


They also sell Lenox, and they make a carbide tooth blade as well as
the Woodmaster blades:
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Len...aw-Blade/H4874

https://www.grizzly.com/products/Len...aw-Blade/H4875

https://www.grizzly.com/search?q=((c...D+(brand:Lenox)


So, it would be easy to get confused with all the choices. I would like to get a carbide tipped blade eventually. I have about 5 Timberwolf blades in 3/4" that I'll have to wear out before that, though. Laguna has a good reputation for their carbide tipped blade, BUT no matter whose, they are all expen$ive!

I may be one of the few here that weld their own blades from Lenox or Starrett roll stock in 1/2" and 3/8" widths. I have two Craftsman 14" bandsaws For those home welded blades. I have two metal cutting bandsaws that I also weld my own blades for. I have one dual purpose 6 speed Wilton 14" bandsaw that I will need to weld some blades for also. The welder, a German made induction unit, has paid for itself over the years in cost and convenience.


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 02-18-2020 at 09:13 AM.
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post #15 of 16 Old 02-18-2020, 09:33 AM
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I have always used Timber Wolf blades and I am happy with them. If I have a question about a blade I call TW and they advise me on what blade to use. I called them and ask what blade to use for resawing on my 14" Grizzly and they said 1/2" 3TPI. I ordered the wrong blade and called them and told them about my mistake. They sent me the right blade at no cost. I do order all my blades from TW, not someone else.

Don in Murfreesboro, TN.
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post #16 of 16 Old 02-18-2020, 10:16 AM
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I've had pretty good luck with the Woodslicer blade. IMO ultimately a carbide blade is the best way to go.

Lower speed because it will generate less heat.

What specific problems are you having? I ask because often times its the saw set up & technique, not the blade.

Robert
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