OK here's my biased opinion based on spending literally hours trying to remove drift from my bandaws: He has a very slick presentation, but it doesn't work for all bandsaws. So you can frustrate yourself, or buy a PM saw just like the one he uses. The reason I say this, is that not all bandsaws have coplanar wheels, or crowned tires therefore adjusting the tracking to ride on the gullet on the crown is not applicable. Bottom line: not all bandsaws can be set up to remove drift ala Snodgrass.
If you go through a standard setup for your saw (I suggest you follow the manual) you should be ok. Back off all the guides and set the tracking first, then the thrust bearing, then the guide blocks. Careful to keep centered. Tension will affect tracking so once that's set don't change it. I suggest you ignore the scale and over tension the blade at least by 2X IOW for a 1/2" blade tension to 3/4-1".
FWIW, I have the 12" version of your saw with identical guides. I've found it is not the easiest saw to keep aligned. Bearing guides are far superior to blocks, and I believe Carter probably has an upgrade for this saw. If not, check the blocks for wear and consider replacing with some better quality guide blocks.
You also need to check the alignment of the guide post. Be sure it is following the blade as it is moved up and down.
IMO adjusting the table to the drift is far superior than attempting the Snodgrass method. Set the fence parallel to the slot, then making several test cuts, loosening the table bolts and moving the table as needed. Michael Fortune has a good video on this.
I've never had an issue with urethane tires.
Last edited by DrRobert; 11-09-2019 at 10:56 AM.