Band Saw setup/tuning guide - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 11-06-2019, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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Band Saw setup/tuning guide

***Heads up, I'm not a band saw expert so I apologize ahead of time if I don't know the right terminology for the various parts and components***

Hi, I have an old Jet 14" band saw that I haven't used since I bought it last year. I've been kind of afraid to because while it looks like it's in perfect operational condition the tires (rubber things that go around the top and bottom wheels that the blade rides on) are old and dried out. Also the blade adjustments seem off because the blade tends to want to work itself off of the wheels.

It's silver colored which I didn't know was ever a Jet color.

I've been trying to find any info or tutorials on setting up and tuning a band saw but can't seem to find anything. Does anyone know of any resources they could share?

Thanks in advance!

-Carl

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Last edited by carlrez; 11-06-2019 at 06:28 PM.
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post #2 of 18 Old 11-06-2019, 04:50 PM
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Do you have a model number?


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post #3 of 18 Old 11-06-2019, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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I'll post pics and the model number when I get home later today.

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post #4 of 18 Old 11-06-2019, 05:19 PM
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As my son likes to say, you can learn how to do anything on YouTube.

Watch this video and then let us know what other questions you have.

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post #5 of 18 Old 11-06-2019, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you! This video looks very helpful!

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post #6 of 18 Old 11-06-2019, 06:32 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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get new rubber tires first ....

The Snodgrass video posted above recommends rubber tires which are OEM equipment. Get them here:
https://www.ebay.com/i/152602062042?...MaAlckEALw_wcB


OR here:
https://www.yorksaw.com/luxite-produ...and-saw-tires/


Then remove the table and set back all the guides. Follow the Snodgrass instructions on how to adjust them, quite simple really. Track the new blade with the gullets on the center of the top tire. Disregard the bottom tire for tracking. Never saw a name brand silver bandsaw so far......

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #7 of 18 Old 11-06-2019, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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That video was exactly what I was looking for. I guess the word "clinic" is good to use when searching for tutorials and how-to's for tool setup. Hehe...

Now to set it up properly using what I learned.


It looks like there are a few homemade attempts at blade protection on it. I need to give those a good look to see if they would help or hurt the saw's performance.

Any tips on knowing when a saw blade is too dull and should be replaced?

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Last edited by carlrez; 11-06-2019 at 06:58 PM.
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post #8 of 18 Old 11-06-2019, 07:16 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Blade protection?

I don't know what that means. The upper blade guard is the only protection you need other than the housing covers. Storing blades with a fine spray of oil won't hurt to prevent rust in humid conditions.



A dull blade won't cut straight and it requires extra feed pressure. Best to get a new blade and start out right. I use Timberwolf blades from Grizzly in the lengths for my saw. For cutting or resawing thicker wood get a 3 tooth per inch blade in 1/2" or 3/4" widths. For general cutting a 6 tooth per inch in 1/4" up to 3/8" wide is fine, The greater the width, the less you can turn it to make small radius cuts. Wider blades want to cut straight.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #9 of 18 Old 11-06-2019, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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In this pic I circled the"home made" blade protection I talked about...

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post #10 of 18 Old 11-06-2019, 11:15 PM
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Lots of good advice above.

Here are a few checks not mentioned yet. Do them with the bandsaw unplugged:
* Check that the thrust bearings behind the blade turn freely. If not, replace them. There is one above and one below the table.
* Make sure the wheels turn freely with no play.
* Check the pulleys and belt.

@woodnthings is very knowledgeable. I would like to know why he recommends rubber tires.
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post #11 of 18 Old 11-07-2019, 02:02 AM
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rubber tires VS urethane .....

None of my bandsaws has urethane tires on it .... and if they need replacing I will stay with rubber. Alex Snodgrass says that urethane lasts longer, BUT they do not increase performance which I tend to believe. https://youtu.be/wGbZqWac0jU?t=183


The only experience I did have with urethane was on a used and refurbished 14" Delta I owned briefly, but sold. I didn't use it, only made a few test cuts, but it seemed OK. The tires seemed a bit softer than the rubber tires, but that's all I know.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #12 of 18 Old 11-08-2019, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
The Snodgrass video posted above recommends rubber tires which are OEM equipment. Get them here:
https://www.ebay.com/i/152602062042?...MaAlckEALw_wcB


OR here:
https://www.yorksaw.com/luxite-produ...and-saw-tires/


Then remove the table and set back all the guides. Follow the Snodgrass instructions on how to adjust them, quite simple really. Track the new blade with the gullets on the center of the top tire. Disregard the bottom tire for tracking. Never saw a name brand silver bandsaw so far......
I have watched the video several times and have never got the impression he recommends rubber tires, he does state there is no advantage replacing them expecting better results.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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post #13 of 18 Old 11-09-2019, 10:49 AM
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OK here's my biased opinion based on spending literally hours trying to remove drift from my bandaws: He has a very slick presentation, but it doesn't work for all bandsaws. So you can frustrate yourself, or buy a PM saw just like the one he uses. The reason I say this, is that not all bandsaws have coplanar wheels, or crowned tires therefore adjusting the tracking to ride on the gullet on the crown is not applicable. Bottom line: not all bandsaws can be set up to remove drift ala Snodgrass.

If you go through a standard setup for your saw (I suggest you follow the manual) you should be ok. Back off all the guides and set the tracking first, then the thrust bearing, then the guide blocks. Careful to keep centered. Tension will affect tracking so once that's set don't change it. I suggest you ignore the scale and over tension the blade at least by 2X IOW for a 1/2" blade tension to 3/4-1".

FWIW, I have the 12" version of your saw with identical guides. I've found it is not the easiest saw to keep aligned. Bearing guides are far superior to blocks, and I believe Carter probably has an upgrade for this saw. If not, check the blocks for wear and consider replacing with some better quality guide blocks.

You also need to check the alignment of the guide post. Be sure it is following the blade as it is moved up and down.

IMO adjusting the table to the drift is far superior than attempting the Snodgrass method. Set the fence parallel to the slot, then making several test cuts, loosening the table bolts and moving the table as needed. Michael Fortune has a good video on this.


I've never had an issue with urethane tires.

Last edited by DrRobert; 11-09-2019 at 10:56 AM.
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post #14 of 18 Old 11-09-2019, 09:06 PM
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Watch again starting here ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankC View Post
I have watched the video several times and have never got the impression he recommends rubber tires, he does state there is no advantage replacing them expecting better results.

https://youtu.be/wGbZqWac0jU?t=179

At 3:10 in he says .....

"Do not replace the rubber tires expecting any increase in performance "........
So, no not a recommendation, but pretty close.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 11-09-2019 at 09:29 PM.
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post #15 of 18 Old 11-09-2019, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
https://youtu.be/wGbZqWac0jU?t=179

At 3:10 in he says .....

"Do not replace the rubber tires expecting any increase in performance ........
Exactly, but he does not say one is better than the other, so your opinion about rubber is just that, your opinion backed by no practical experience as you have admitted in a previous post #11.

I have used both, eventually it got to the point where gluing on a rubber tire was a nuisance so I stopped using them.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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post #16 of 18 Old 11-09-2019, 09:35 PM
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OK, you win....

Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankC View Post
Exactly, but he does not say one is better than the other, so your opinion about rubber is just that, your opinion backed by no practical experience as you have admitted in a previous post #11.

I have used both, eventually it got to the point where gluing on a rubber tire was a nuisance so I stopped using them.

Ok, when I come to visit your shop I expect to find all your bandsaws with urethane tires ......

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #17 of 18 Old 11-10-2019, 01:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Ok, when I come to visit your shop I expect to find all your bandsaws with urethane tires ......
Mine too. I like urethane tires because:

* Urethane tires are more durable than rubber. They last longer than rubber tires before they start to crack or get brittle.
* Urethane tires are readily available from many sources.
* Urethane tires do not require glue. Frankly, that's reason enough for me, provided that all other factors are equal.

Notes:

* Just to be clear, urethane tires perform the same than rubber tires.
* Just be clear, replacing good bandsaw tires with new ones does not generally affect performance.

* Some people believe that the "dull" blue "Blue Max" urethane tires are the best, and they are made in USA. According to those posts that I read, those people prefer the Blue Max tires over the orange and shiny blue urethane tires, which are made in China and not as good.
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post #18 of 18 Old 11-11-2019, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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@FrankC
@woodnthings
@Tool Agnostic

Thanks guys for your input. What I got from the Snodgrass video was that he wasn't saying one was better than the other, he was just saying that if your rubber tires are still in good shape there's no need to "upgrade" them to urethane tires since there will be no performance improvement. I didn't get the feeling he was endorsing one over the other, just that he was educating people to prevent them from making any unnecessary change to urethane tires expecting a difference in performance.

Personally it looks like my tires are ready to be replaced and I will be switching to urethane tires in order to avoid having to deal with gluing anything.

@DrRobert
Thank you for your feedback and sharing your experience with the bandsaw. I'll keep those things in mind when using it so I don't let myself become too frustrated trying to do something that's just not practical with my bandsaw.
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