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post #1 of 15 Old 11-16-2009, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Band Saw

I know almost NOTHING about band saws. I have a 10" Craftsman band saw that I bought about 3 or 4 months ago and I can not seem to get it to cut straight. When I feed material (always less than 3/4" thick) to it the blade seems top twist and deflect such that it always makes "wavey" cuts. I have looked as much as I know how to look and I have not been able to solve this problem. What am I doing wrong? I believe that I have the tracking and the blade tension set sorta, kinda right but it still won't cut straight. I am at the end of my rope. I am a knifemaker so I only bother you guys when I have a wood working problem. You solved my last conundrum in a skinnet (1 skinnet = 59.5 seconds less than a minute). I hope you all don't think that I am using you. I would be glad to help with metal or sharpening questions by way of payback. Any ideas? Thank you all for your consideration. Nicholas Jasper
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post #2 of 15 Old 11-16-2009, 09:04 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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I also have a 10" Craftsman

It's a new model 1/3 HP, I believe. You must start with a new blade. Probably 1/4" or 3/8" with 6 Teeth per inch for general purpose cutting. You should back away all the guides, side and rear, and then center the blade on the wheel. The tension must be correct, a clear tone when plunking the blade, not a dull thunk. When the blade is centered on the wheels bring the rear guides into the back of the blade so they just barely touch and then the same with the side guides. ALL THIS IS DONE WITH THE MACHINE UNPLUGGED. This should cure any wandering in the cut. Mine cuts amazing well for a cheap little machine and I use it for lots of utility cuts, dowels, small shapes, plexiglas, some aluminum etc. Nice little workhorse. Good Luck, bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #3 of 15 Old 11-16-2009, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you, Bill. I was told that the blade should deflect about 1/4" when pushed with the little finger. That won't give you a musical note. However, when I get the blade to a tightness that seems right to me and with the tracking right, the blade sticks out in front of the lower roller guides so that only about 1/16" of the blade is between the roller guides. This is driving me crazy. I understand machinery pretty good and I can not figure this out. I KNOW that there is an adjustment that needs to be done but I can not figure it out.

SHOULD a person be able to cut a straight cut with this little saw? It has never cut straight and the owner's manual is from hunger!

The blade engages the material and it IMMEDIATELY twists or warps along its long axis and just wanders in a wiggly line along the full length of the cut. This happens with 1/8" plastic material and on 1/2" plywood. I put a new blade on it tonight. No joy. Does it sound like the blade is too slack? Does YOUR blade track between the top roller guides or does it stick out in front of them? Thanks again. Nicholas
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post #4 of 15 Old 11-17-2009, 03:31 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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Sumpin' ain't right here

A 1/4" blade should have it's width between the guides up to the gullets on the teeth. If there is no adjustment to move the guide assembly forward as a unit (there should be) then the blade tracking is too far forward. Your tension sounds about right. A good blade under proper tension should cut straight without the side guides touching. How far off the work surface are the upper guides when you are cutting the stock? About 1/2" above is correct. It sounds like the rear guides are too far forward and won't let the side guides do their job? I'll post some photos later. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #5 of 15 Old 11-17-2009, 11:35 AM
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As they say, a picture is worth 1000 words, this video will show you the proper way to setup your bandsaw. The saws are a little larger than yours but the principle is the same. Good luck.


Dave

Life is like a roll of toilet paper.
The closer it gets to the end, the faster it goes.
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post #6 of 15 Old 11-17-2009, 04:53 PM
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Here's the photos of Craftsman 10"

1. The saw.
2. The blade is center on the wheel.
3. The blade extends into the side guides to the gullets.
4. The rear bearing is just touching the blade when spun by hand.
I don't know if the video explains it that way, but it works well for me. I'll watch it and maybe I'll learn something new.
There is a timber framing band saw video at http://www.falbergsawz.com/ where they saw a 15" thick Doug Fir and the blade doesn't even touch the guides! It's got a wide set blade.
Click on the link at the very bottom in blue. bill
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 11-17-2009 at 04:57 PM.
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post #7 of 15 Old 11-28-2009, 07:27 PM
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In my experience a good setup and a GOOD blade make or break a bandsaw whether it be from Harbor freight or Jet.
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post #8 of 15 Old 09-20-2014, 03:12 PM
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I'm trying to remember the scorching hot blade speed I was running then; so think with me here a minute. My motor went around 1750 RPM. My blade transport drive wheel was exactly 10" Diameter; (the v-belt pulley ratio was 1:1 (4" & 4") times 3.14 something gives us a circumference of 31+" (your C will vary with diameter)1750 times 31" is how fast the blade is going in inches/minute or 54,250"/minute. divide that by 12" is 4,520'/min. ; divided by 5280, that gives us a blade speed of .8560 miles/ minute or 51 miles per hour. My wheel bearings could handle that. My guide bearings could not; they'd burn out in minutes from over-heating. So: get your blade speed up (to remove chips fast); get your blade guides out of there (they'll burn up)"and trust the FORCE, Luke" The blade will stay on top of the (proper) crown and support blade thrust through a cut, that same tenacity works in reverse, too, for backing out of a cut.

Try it. You'll amaze yourself and see why I laugh at Carter's reps. Don't try forcing that blade into a tight radius however. Do it right and you'll see the blade running free and easy an inch or two in front of the blade guides when you're backing up. Watch Amadeus closely in the RockinR "rafter tail" video (on the Titan page of my website)when he backs out a bunch of times while the blade is following along behind (gripping the back edges of the top and bottom tires for dear life) Blade guides can hide a tracking problem; they don't cure it. Get a meat hook on a long stick and experiment with pulling the blade around while it's running. Keep your fingers clear. Laugh along with me next time the experts explain how to adjust blade guides. I call them blade followers now.
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post #9 of 15 Old 09-20-2014, 05:53 PM
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I dunno, I just used Alex Snodgrass's (the Carter rep guy) tune up video and got my el cheapo HF 14" resawing to get 1/8" boards perfectly (3 TPI skip tooth 1/2" blade). Even with a too low fence. Maybe there is a better way but I am happy with the results. I'm happy to consider a different way but AS's video makes it pretty easy.

Last edited by PhilBa; 09-20-2014 at 05:59 PM. Reason: added the video link
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post #10 of 15 Old 09-20-2014, 06:38 PM
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Oh, cr*p, I'm sorry guys, this was another resurrected thread.
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post #11 of 15 Old 09-20-2014, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilBa View Post
Oh, cr*p, I'm sorry guys, this was another resurrected thread.
Don't apologize mate, I'm pretty sure mr "buy my saw" up there is searching for any thread with bandsaw in it to drum up some interest in his. Pretty stupid method if you ask me, reviving a 5 year old thread is only going to piss people off

I need cheaper hobby
etsy.com/shop/projectepicfail
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post #12 of 15 Old 09-21-2014, 10:34 AM
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Bad marketing 101...................
A. Dredge up old threads that died years ago
B. Insult the participants by telling them they are stupid for not understanding your immense wisdom and for not wanting to learn something "new"
C. Insult and ridicule your competition, it's a sure sign your product is really crap and can't stand on it's own merits

So, if you're unfortunate enough to look past all this and buy one of his contraptions anyway, does he charge extra for courteous customer service or will you get the same "you're stupid" attitude when you need help?

The tools don't make the craftsman......a true statement often overused by individuals who haven't a clue about quality tools or true craftsmanship.
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post #13 of 15 Old 09-21-2014, 11:08 AM
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Nobody asked you; but I'd suggest knitting or quilting. Is there going to be an election at the end of this campaign? If not, why bother? What's in it for you? Why are you following me from thread to thread? I'm only trying to shed some light on a subject that hasn't been questioned or researched for two hundred years. My videos are proof that everything you know is wrong. Does that insult you? I only meant to insult the corporations that peddle these shoddy goods. Are you shilling for any of them?
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post #14 of 15 Old 09-21-2014, 11:19 AM
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Thanks for making my points......

The tools don't make the craftsman......a true statement often overused by individuals who haven't a clue about quality tools or true craftsmanship.
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post #15 of 15 Old 09-21-2014, 01:37 PM
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I don't sweat it so much but don't like providing grist for the insult mill.

And by the way, on a forum like this, you don't need to be asked....
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