Atlas 6001 blade & spacer question - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 06-19-2017, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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Atlas 6001 blade & spacer question

Hey y'all. We recently bought an Atlas Press Company 6001 jointer. My fiance took the blades off today, so we could get some new ones. When he took them off, he found these spacers in there. One is longer than the other. The spacers at the top 3 in the picture. Can y'all tell me if they are supposed to be there or not? This is our first adventure with something like this and we want to make sure we do it right! He thinks that someone bought the wrong blades and put the spacers in there to make them work?
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post #2 of 8 Old 06-19-2017, 01:34 PM
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Sometime or another somebody had put parts in there from a different machine and didn't match. Everything should be the same. Since one of the spacers or Gibs as they are normally called is bigger it will be heavier than the other two and throw the head out of balance. While it might work it's doing a lot of damage to the bearings. If it's otherwise the same size you might be able to just grind metal off the end to even it up. If you have a postal scale it would be good to weigh them and get them all the same weight.
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post #3 of 8 Old 06-19-2017, 01:51 PM
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Just like getting your tires balanced to minimize vibration, the gibs and blades should be closely balanced for best performance.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #4 of 8 Old 06-19-2017, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
Sometime or another somebody had put parts in there from a different machine and didn't match. Everything should be the same. Since one of the spacers or Gibs as they are normally called is bigger it will be heavier than the other two and throw the head out of balance. While it might work it's doing a lot of damage to the bearings. If it's otherwise the same size you might be able to just grind metal off the end to even it up. If you have a postal scale it would be good to weigh them and get them all the same weight.


So that could explain why the blades are messed up, since it's out of balance, huh? Are the Gibs necessary? We are supposed to have the Gibs? We do have a scale so we can weigh them, but if I am replacing blades anyway I am wondering if I should go ahead and replace the Gibs.
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post #5 of 8 Old 06-19-2017, 02:48 PM
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You may not need to replace the blades. You may be able to just sharpen them. Yes, you need the gibs.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #6 of 8 Old 06-19-2017, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amanda Holshouser View Post
So that could explain why the blades are messed up, since it's out of balance, huh? Are the Gibs necessary? We are supposed to have the Gibs? We do have a scale so we can weigh them, but if I am replacing blades anyway I am wondering if I should go ahead and replace the Gibs.
The Gibs are what holds the blades in so they would be necessary. If you have a source for new ones it would probably be a good idea to get a new set. Either way if you can make them all the same weight then you should be good.
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post #7 of 8 Old 06-19-2017, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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The Gibs are what holds the blades in so they would be necessary. If you have a source for new ones it would probably be a good idea to get a new set. Either way if you can make them all the same weight then you should be good.
I will see what I can do about new ones. They're a little more difficult to find than blades were. We'll look for someone that could grind the one down, in the meantime. Thanks for your help!
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post #8 of 8 Old 06-19-2017, 03:39 PM
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It ain't quite that simple ...

There are slots milled into the cutter head, If you put spacers and or blades into the head, and tighten them down, there is nothing to keep them from spinning out under power!
This is where the gibs come into play. They do not have parallel side, but are wedged shaped. One you drop them into the slot and slide your blade in there beside it, you have the blade wedged into the slot. It will not fly out under power when you tighten the screws.

http://www.woodmagazine.com/tool-rev...inter-knives-2



Some newer jointers have blade height adjustment screws or "jack screws" as well as retaining screws. This make adjusting the3 blade to equal heights out of the cutter head much easier. I bought and old Jet 6" jointer that did not have the height adjusting screws and immediately took it to the machine shop to have them milled in. It cost $40.00 and that was well worth it.

Here a thread I posted on replacing your jointer knives after you have sharpened them. You can just barely see the gibs which are wider than the blades:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/r...-knives-34881/

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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