My primary use of the jointer is to make two flat edges/faces square to each other.
I'll look into getting a parallelogram type if I ever am able to upgrade tp a new 8" jointer.
The helical type head with carbide inserts looks mighty fine too!
I have survived for years with an old Jet 6" with dovetailed ways. After its initial setup,
it's never drooped nor required any advanced nor more complicated tuning than 3 little things,
1, changing blades requires setting and leveling them to the outfeed table
2, I have re-indexed the height of the outfeed table
- after moving it
- after someone changed its height trying to "help" me
- once after sharpening knives it needed resetting
3, squaring the fence to the table for various reasons including because of
- just checking before a project
- the result wasn't square
- a helper tried to reset it *sigh*
I wish I had an 8" jointer because it is easily capable of facing a 6 to 8" board.
Those long tables are the bomb for long stock. The additional power and weight I think would
add to the smoothness of surfaces, but with sharp knives all set correctly, my 6" does a respectable job.
Years ago when I bought my jointer there was not a carbide knife option, much less a helical head
with insert knives (with 4 edges, just rotate each insert?! that's nice!)
Usually when it comes to 6" and wider facing of a board I have relied on a 12" planer. It's obviously
not.the.same, but when well tuned it does a fine job on cooperative wood.
it jus doesn't produce
straight surfaces except to match.. I've seen discussions on even bigger tools, but I don't have
the space for a 12" jointer! (or 16" or....) fitting an 8" jointer may take some extra consideration too.
As does moving one. If you can't put it on a handtruck or dolly and roll it into place, or if you're
caught trying to move the business end onto its stand without a crane, pullies or sufficient helpers,