Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Near Boston, Massachusetts
If you've got all the power tools, I assume you have a table saw, band saw, and drill press, along with a thickness planer and jointer. Based on that, here's what I'd look for.
1) A set of backsaws. You want a small fine tooth dovetail saw for dovetails and small parts, a medium sized carcass saw for making precise cuts across the grain, and a large tenon saw for cutting tenons on large furniture. You can make two saws do the job, though... I mostly use a Veritas Carcase saw, 12tpi with rip teeth, for most work. It's great for dovetails, it does pretty well for crosscutting small parts, and it does really well for ripping small boards. I also have a larger tenon saw I picked up at a flea market for doing larger work. It's probably around 10tpi, filed rip.
2) A smoothing plane. Something like a Stanley #3 or #4. I have both, and I mostly prefer the #3. You don't really need a jointer plane, because you have a powered jointer. You don't really need a fore/jack/scrub plane, because you have a thickness planer. Pick up a couple of card scrapers, too... those are the other half of the smoothing toolset.
3) Some specialty planes. I'd recommend a rabbet plane, a plow plane, and, if you can find them, a set of match planes. The rabbet plane and plow plane are fairly self-explanatory, and a set of match planes will let you do tongue and groove joints without having to think or set anything up. I also love my beading plane, and I'd like to start making a couple sets of hollow and rounds.
4) A really nice set of chisels. I'd probably buy from Narex if I were doing it from the beginning, but the Wood River sets are surprisingly good for the price. If you're happy with the ones you have, stick with those. I've tried cutting mortises with both standard chisels and mortise chisels, and I don't really see a big improvement for small (1/4" - 3/8") mortises. I might change my mind if I were looking at a 1" mortise.
5) Sharpening supplies. I've tried oilstones and diamond plate, and the diamonds won hands-down for me. I've got a set of three DMT plates, in 325, 600, and 1200 grit equivalents, plus a strop. I gave up on honing guides... I could never get them to work, and I just seemed to be making my tools duller when I worked. I watched a demo by Paul Sellers of his freehand method, gave it a try, and loved it. If you're happier with a guide, awesome. If you try freehand and like it, awesome. Go with what works. I like sandpaper for really badly damaged tools because it cuts fast and I don't care if I damage it. If I weren't afraid of my grinder, I'd use that instead.
I think those are the big ones that I'd use for supplementing power tools. Once you start wanting to replace the power tools... well, that's where it starts costing a lot of time and/or money.