A tip for making a uniform rabbet ..... - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 05-29-2020, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
where's my table saw?
 
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A tip for making a uniform rabbet .....

I'm not a "handtool woodworker" but I do use them when it's appropriate like cleaning up this rabbet I made using my bandsaw to waste away the great portion of it. It did not come out perfect however, it was a bit tapered. I needed a way to make it a uniform thickness all the way across it's width. So, after a few minutes thought I came up with the idea of using a spacer of the correct thickness, actually a piece of 1/8" thick Masonite, to rest my bull nose plane and my razor sharp mortising chisel on. Sure enough it worked like a charm:
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BigJim, Tool Agnostic and homestd like this.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 05-29-2020 at 08:59 PM.
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post #2 of 8 Old 06-03-2020, 06:07 PM
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The rabbit came out tapered because the work is cupped. Next time you need to rabbit or dado a rip or crosscut try this.
Make a wood insert for the saw top. The insert needs a slight hump from the center of the blade to each end of the insert.
What this does is make sure the dado passes over the blades at the same height regardless of any cup in the board.
Usually 1/16" / 3/32" high at the center that tapers to zero will be plenty high.
I would start by making the insert 3/32" or so high. Plane , sand etc til the insert looks about right. Does not have to be perfect, mostly an eyeball job. As long as the insert is a high in the center this will work. Every rabbit or dado will be the same depth.
mike
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post #3 of 8 Old 06-03-2020, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
where's my table saw?
 
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Nope. it was my operator error ....

Quote:
Originally Posted by kwoodhands View Post
The rabbit came out tapered because the work is cupped. Next time you need to rabbit or dado a rip or crosscut try this.
Make a wood insert for the saw top. The insert needs a slight hump from the center of the blade to each end of the insert.
What this does is make sure the dado passes over the blades at the same height regardless of any cup in the board.
Usually 1/16" / 3/32" high at the center that tapers to zero will be plenty high.
I would start by making the insert 3/32" or so high. Plane , sand etc til the insert looks about right. Does not have to be perfect, mostly an eyeball job. As long as the insert is a high in the center this will work. Every rabbit or dado will be the same depth.
mike

Unless you know how I made the initial rabbet, you can't jump to any conclusions. The wood was not warped. I made the rabbets, all 4 of them, on the bandsaw with the fully assembled and stapled shelf held out over the table extended about 30", so it was hard to control even with the fence and a depth stop. Because the shelf was assembled, and I needed the rabbet on the inside of the verticals, I couldn't use the table saw, my normal method for making rabbets.
I've made rabbets and tenons using the bandsaw many times, but those pieces were not a part of an assembly.

This one was way off, but the 3 others were very close, so I needed a way to make them all identical and this was a "quick and dirty" solution, but very effective and that's why I posted it.
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #4 of 8 Old 06-04-2020, 12:28 AM
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It helps to start with a uniform mama rabbit and a uniform daddy rabbit....

"The kind of man who wants the government to adopt and enforce his ideas is always the kind of man whose ideas are idiotic." -H.L. Mencken
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post #5 of 8 Old 06-04-2020, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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This technique will work on larger rabbets as well

Let's say you need a 1/2" deep rabbet on a piece of 3/4" thick stock. You can saw away most of the waste leaving just enough to pare away and resting your chisel or rabbet plane on a 1/2" thick spacer. They will all be the same thickness this way.


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #6 of 8 Old 06-04-2020, 10:53 AM
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A router plane is also good tool for this.

Robert
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post #7 of 8 Old 06-04-2020, 05:07 PM
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I did not realize you used a bandsaw to saw the rabbits. Hard for me to picture, I have used a tablesaw, router, jointer , milling machine and rabbit planes to saw the rabbits. Lots of ways to do things, your way is new to me.
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post #8 of 8 Old 06-04-2020, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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I had to use the bandsaw or a .....

Quote:
Originally Posted by kwoodhands View Post
I did not realize you used a bandsaw to saw the rabbits. Hard for me to picture, I have used a tablesaw, router, jointer , milling machine and rabbit planes to saw the rabbits. Lots of ways to do things, your way is new to me.
mike

Because the small shelve unit was stapled together an would not come apart, I either had to use a handsaw or a bandsaw. I couldn't fit my table saw in between the shelves


So, as I stated above I use the bandsaw for making tenons. Here's some photos showing the fence, but usually I use a stop block clamped on for the depth:






So, two fence settings are all you need for the shoulders, but the piece must be held vertically for the face cuts, or you'll get a tapered tongue. I use a miter gauge. It's way better than a dado set on the table saw, just as accurate and no need to change out your saw blades, a tedious task which I avoid when possible.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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