I have no appetite to learn to be a bladesmith. For wood carvings such as spoons, bowls and kuksa, crooked knives are the only way to go. Mora (Sweden) makes #162, #163 & #164, ideal for this sort of work.
Instead, I rebevelled 2 pairs of Mora #171 Equus farrier's hook knives from 30 degrees to 12 degrees, including the little scorp-like hook at the tip. These are carving sharp.
I carve a lot of western red cedar pieces which I split out from log chunks (plentiful and usually free). Custom froe pounded out for my by a blacksmith. I need a straight tang. I made the bash-worthy mallet from an alder log.
To keep the undulations in the WRC, all I want to do is get the surface smooth enough to lay out a drawing. Started with a Mora #188, double bevel farrier's hook knife. Cut off the hook and down again to 12 degrees. Set this into an 18" willow handle. It was getting grubby-looking so the whip finish (dacron cord & glue) is really cosmetic. Because of the progressive sweep in the blade, you can't use a plane to smooth a surface like this does.
Lee Valley sells Haida-style crooked knife blades from Crescent Knife Works in Vancouver. They are very crudely sharpened. By the time you're ready to mess with these, you know how to make crooked blades "carving sharp" and you know exactly how to shape the handles for the way you like to carve. These are rosewood & mahogany glue-ups, the blades are canted 10 degrees. All double bevels carving sharp as 12 degrees. The whip finishes cover the mounting hardware.