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post #101 of 117 Old 01-01-2013, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin K View Post
I'm looking for a Jack Plane as we speak. Can anyone give me feedback on the Woodriver Planers? I do know of a local fellow that collects a bit of everything and saw several different planers lying around his storage building. There are many older models, any ideas on what I should be looking out for as far as damage that can't be repaired or replaced?
Some folks like the Woodriver planes. I have not picked one up myself. I have seen them on the shelves at the local Woodcraft store.

This NJ Craigslist is for a No 8, providing for the phone number. He is a collector/seller and has many planes, including many #5 Jack planes.

http://cnj.craigslist.org/tls/3483815165.html

If you are looking at Stanley-Bailey design, most things are available as parts. Bob Kaune is a good source if you cannot find locally.
http://antique-used-tools.com/stanpl.htm

Some threads on the site about welding broken castings with nice results. I do not weld, so for me I would pass on a broken casting. Not unusual, too easy to have been dropped over time.

Blades/cap irons/ totes/ knobs are available from many sources.

You need to decide on how much rust is worth your time. A plane can look like a bucket of rust, but be salvageable if you are willing to spend the time.

I purchased a really rusty plane just to show a friend how to do a restore. Take a look. I sent the no-name plane onto another forum member who is using it.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/l...t-plane-43433/
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post #102 of 117 Old 01-01-2013, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by mengtian View Post
Looks like many of guys have way too much. If you ever feel the need to geet rid of some just let me know.....:)
heh ... plane redistribution. i'm in!
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post #103 of 117 Old 01-01-2013, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Curl View Post
heh ... plane redistribution. i'm in!
Well if you are serious, I have a Sargent 3416 Transitional plane just gathering dust.

If you are serious about using this, send me a PM.

You should read this link first. It is not my favourite plane.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/s...6-plane-41888/
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post #104 of 117 Old 01-02-2013, 08:40 AM
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Darren, I just took a look at your web site. Very impressive.

Its best to point you all to my web site for pictures of my plane, but here is a sample.



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post #105 of 117 Old 01-02-2013, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Paine View Post
Well if you are serious, I have a Sargent 3416 Transitional plane just gathering dust.

If you are serious about using this, send me a PM.

You should read this link first. It is not my favourite plane.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/s...6-plane-41888/
Dave, thanks! I am definately interested. One question though ... I have been trying to figure out the length to determine if it would be good as a try or jointer plane. That is the main thing I *THINK* I need at this time. If it would be good for that, then I can stop looking for a Stanley #7 or #8.

One post closer to that magic 25 post threshold ... :)
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post #106 of 117 Old 01-02-2013, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Curl View Post
Dave, thanks! I am definately interested. One question though ... I have been trying to figure out the length to determine if it would be good as a try or jointer plane. That is the main thing I *THINK* I need at this time. If it would be good for that, then I can stop looking for a Stanley #7 or #8.

One post closer to that magic 25 post threshold ... :)
Chris,

You posted a link to an excellent site dedicated to Sargent planes in another thread.

http://www.sargent-planes.com/116/pr...argent-planes/

I visited the site when I first got the plane. Scroll down to 3416. States a wood bottom jack plane, but no other information.

The sole is 15in long x 2 5/8in wide. It uses a 2in wide blade, same as a No 5. My Stanley No 5 is 14in long and a lot heavier, since it is all metal.

Mengtian has also expressed interest, so I will have to decide which one of you gets this.

I will provide the same information.

Please read my thread on the plane.

Sargent 3416 plane

What are you wanting to use the plane for?

I picked up this plane for its looks. After working on it, I am not a fan of the transitional planes.

I cleaned up and flattened the sole, that was easy.

I was having a lot of trouble with the cap iron. I tried the trick of Firemedic to bend the curved part. This was not easy. I do not have a good way to clamp and apply pressure. I was able to get some extra contact force, so the shavings no longer get stuck under the cap iron.

Now the shavings get stuck in the mouth. A pain to clear out after every pass. FireMedic recommended to file the throat open. I did not want to try this since "no undue".

I would not recommend this plane for a person new to hand planes, and who wants this to be usable. It can be used, but it is not easy.

My testing was only on a piece of pine. I started with the easy wood.

You can get replacement blades, but the depth of a transitional body means the cap iron is longer than the all metal Stanley Bailey, so the hole of replacement cap irons does not match.

Just wanting to provide the facts. I would not want you to be as frustrated with the plane as I feel.

I purchased this as part of a group of items from a local antique and collectables store, so I do not know what I paid for it. Likely less than $20. It was in the best shape of the group of hand planes. I later purchased the no-name "Latest bucket of rust" plane from the same place.

I will be looking to cover shipping costs. This would likely need a large size flat rate box from USPS.
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post #107 of 117 Old 01-02-2013, 01:56 PM
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Thank you

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Paine View Post
Some folks like the Woodriver planes. I have not picked one up myself. I have seen them on the shelves at the local Woodcraft store.

This NJ Craigslist is for a No 8, providing for the phone number. He is a collector/seller and has many planes, including many #5 Jack planes.

http://cnj.craigslist.org/tls/3483815165.html

If you are looking at Stanley-Bailey design, most things are available as parts. Bob Kaune is a good source if you cannot find locally.
http://antique-used-tools.com/stanpl.htm

Some threads on the site about welding broken castings with nice results. I do not weld, so for me I would pass on a broken casting. Not unusual, too easy to have been dropped over time.

Blades/cap irons/ totes/ knobs are available from many sources.

You need to decide on how much rust is worth your time. A plane can look like a bucket of rust, but be salvageable if you are willing to spend the time.

I purchased a really rusty plane just to show a friend how to do a restore. Take a look. I sent the no-name plane onto another forum member who is using it.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/l...t-plane-43433/
Dave, great bit of information! Thank you for taking the time to point me in the right direction. I plan on taking a look at the planes my neighbor has for sale. When I was looking at them over the summer I didn't really know who any of the manufacturers are or even what I was looking at. He's an old timer and has at least a dozen or so he's selling for $20 a piece. I'll let you know what he has if you're interested.

Thanks again,

Kevin
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post #108 of 117 Old 01-02-2013, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Curl View Post
Dave, thanks! I am definately interested. One question though ... I have been trying to figure out the length to determine if it would be good as a try or jointer plane. That is the main thing I *THINK* I need at this time. If it would be good for that, then I can stop looking for a Stanley #7 or #8.

One post closer to that magic 25 post threshold ... :)
Chris,

You posted a link to an excellent site dedicated to Sargent planes in another thread.

http://www.sargent-planes.com/116/pr...argent-planes/

I visited the site when I first got the plane. Scroll down to 3416. States a wood bottom jack plane, but no other information.

The sole is 15in long x 2 5/8in wide. It uses a 2in wide blade, same as a No 5. My Stanley No 5 is 14in long and a lot heavier, since it is all metal.

Mengtian has also expressed interest, so I will have to decide which one of you gets this.

I will provide the same information.

Please read my thread on the plane if you did not read earlier.

Sargent 3416 plane

What are you wanting to use the plane for?

I picked up this plane for its looks. After working on it, I am not a fan of the transitional planes.

I cleaned up and flattened the sole, that was easy.

I was having a lot of trouble with the cap iron. I tried the trick of Firemedic to bend the curved part. This was not easy. I do not have a good way to clamp and apply pressure. I was able to get some extra contact force, so the shavings no longer get stuck under the cap iron.

Now the shavings get stuck in the mouth. A pain to clear out after every pass. FireMedic recommended to file the throat open. I did not want to try this since "no undue".

I would not recommend this plane for a person new to hand planes, and who wants this to be usable. It can be used, but it is not easy.

My testing was only on a piece of pine. I started with the easy wood.

You can get replacement blades, but the depth of a transitional body means the cap iron is longer than the all metal Stanley Bailey, so the hole of replacement cap irons does not match.

Just wanting to provide the facts. I would not want you to be as frustrated with the plane as I feel.

I purchased this as part of a group of items from a local antique and collectables store, so I do not know what I paid for it. Likely less than $20. It was in the best shape of the group of hand planes. I later purchased the no-name "Latest bucket of rust" plane from the same place.

I will be looking to at least cover shipping costs.
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post #109 of 117 Old 01-02-2013, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin K View Post
Dave, great bit of information! Thank you for taking the time to point me in the right direction. I plan on taking a look at the planes my neighbor has for sale. When I was looking at them over the summer I didn't really know who any of the manufacturers are or even what I was looking at. He's an old timer and has at least a dozen or so he's selling for $20 a piece. I'll let you know what he has if you're interested.

Thanks again,

Kevin
Please do post what your neighbour has for sale. Lots of people are always interested in what may be available.
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post #110 of 117 Old 01-02-2013, 03:04 PM
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THE plane

I only have one plane, and here it is... It appears to be a type 11.

I will TRY to restore it. Wish me luck.
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post #111 of 117 Old 01-02-2013, 03:10 PM
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Chris, as David said it should be approx 15" long. This is certainly a candidate for a Try plane. It is only a bit longer than a jack and should be a bit wider iron as well meaning it wouldn't be worth much in the way of jointers.

I understand David's concern with not being able to undue the removal of wood from the plane but if used as a Try plane the mouth would need to be opened up... not just the throat.

The other thing I failed to suggest to David, my apologies David, was to wax the chip breaker and mouth and to work in quick strokes. Once the curl is up above the throat it should continue to feed evenly and not clog. Velocity is your friend in this case just as with all wooden planes.

Again though, as a Trying plane the mouth would have to be opened up and the the iron heavily cambered. I do believe it would make for an excellent Try plane once done.

For those unsure about what a Try plane is, is the French/English version of what we the Germans and subsequently us Americans call a Scrub plane. Another name for it and as Moxon calls it, a Fore-Plane. It's used just as the scrub plane would be - traversing the board - but it is considerably less aggressive than a scrub plane. the wider iron can not be successfully worked set as deep as you can a scrub.
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post #112 of 117 Old 01-02-2013, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by dado mortise View Post
i only have one plane, and here it is... It appears to be a type 11.

I will try to restore it. Wish me luck.
luck!
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post #113 of 117 Old 01-02-2013, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Dado Mortise View Post
I only have one plane, and here it is... It appears to be a type 11.

I will TRY to restore it. Wish me luck.
Good luck.

The plane does not look in bad condition. Mostly just a combination of oxidation, dirt/grime and some superficial rust.

If you use the Evapo-Rust method you will be amazed how well the steel pieces will look.

For the brass knob, a brass cleaner like Brasso will work.

Try to remove all the screws and put them in the Evapo-Rust. Helps to give everything a clean. You may need some penetrant.
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post #114 of 117 Old 01-02-2013, 03:52 PM
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David, thanks. I did read through the thread. It looks like a great plane that I would use regularly.

It would be to use it as a try plane. Currently, all I have is the #5 which I am still working on, and a #4 that I just got. I have a 110 coming, but it is not here yet.

Last edited by Chris Curl; 01-02-2013 at 04:12 PM.
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post #115 of 117 Old 01-02-2013, 04:04 PM
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Dave, Does the wood look to be in good enough shape just to sand and re-finish?

If you choose not to decide, you still have made a choice - Rush
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post #116 of 117 Old 01-02-2013, 05:24 PM
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Dave, Does the wood look to be in good enough shape just to sand and re-finish?
From the picture, I am not seeing any cracks. Sometimes the cracks are from the heavy use. Sometimes from the wood decaying due to bad storage.

This looks old enough to have rosewood tote and handle. Post WWII they changed to stained hard wood.

If there are no cracks or obvious signs of weakness, I would sand and refinish. Nothing to loose.
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post #117 of 117 Old 01-02-2013, 05:33 PM
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Definitely keep the rosewood. Lightly sand and wax them.

The rest of the plane will clean up well to.
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