Sharpening Stone - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 3 Old 01-09-2017, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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Sharpening Stone

I have a slow speed grinder with 60 & 120 grit wheels and I have a 4000/8000 two sided water stone. Obviously I am missing a few steps in the middle.
I only use the grinder when I find an old chisel or plane and fix it up. I got the 4000/8000 stone to keep my scrapers sharp. I have been adhering 220 and 320 grit sandpaper to a slap of flat 1-1/2" lexan but I want to get a stone to take up less space than this 1' x 3' chunk of lexan.

If you were in my position what grit(s) would you add?
Do you prefer diamond or water or oil stone? Why?

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post #2 of 3 Old 01-10-2017, 01:08 AM
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It's been my opinion for a while that, when compared to a diamond stone, water and oil stones are misplaced money. The diamond stones last a lot longer, don't dish out, cuts well even in exotic alloys and even the price is competitive.

We're I you, I've get something like a DMT duosharp stone in coarse/fine for the initial work on your chisels and planes, then maybe a smaller piece of lexan with some higher grit wet/dry paper (1000-2500) for the final polish
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post #3 of 3 Old 01-10-2017, 03:09 PM
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I agree with epicfail: diamond plates are almost definitely the best value for the money. I've been using the DMT Duosharp stones for a few years, and I have yet to find something I don't like about them. I find that with coarse, fine, and extra-fine surfaces, the limitation is my skill rather than the tools. I also have a strop with a very fine compound on it that I use as a touch up during work. So I'd probably go for two Duosharp plates, the extra-coarse/coarse and the fine/extra-fine.

I do regret having bought the 6" plates, though: they're too narrow for me to use for the iron of my jointer plane. Go for the 8" plates, and you'll be a lot happier.
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