Question about scrapers (and a scraper plane) - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 4 Old 10-05-2009, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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Question about scrapers (and a scraper plane)

I'm new to scrapers, but I've been trying a lot of stuff. My project involves 30 flat panels of quarter-sawn white oak. The ones that are 5" wide are cut from boards of that width (resawn, so each door has a matched partner on the other side of the center stile). The panels that are wider were made by resawing a board, 'booking' and gluing to make a panel that's planed to 1/4" (with a 12" Delta planer). Because I'm booking, half of these wider panels will always have grain that's facing the 'wrong' direction in the planer, so has little chip-outs that I have to sand or plane out. I've been using a random-orbit sander to hog out most of the work, then using a scraper before staining.

The card scraper gives me little sections that look great, but I left marks perpendicular to the grain where I dug in too deep. After staining, it looked so bad I sanded it out to start over.

I next tried a Lie-Nielsen scraper plane, and the instructions said not to put a burr on the blade. They claim it becomes 'too aggressive'. When I used it as directed I made dust, and didn't see much change in the wood. The Woodcraft Store manager says he puts a burr in that plane, so I tried it. The first burr was way too aggressive, and left a very rough surface. My second effort was a gentle burr, and I get shavings that look they came off a plane. Although the wood looks a lot better than a sanded surface, it feels rough. I went back to the card scraper for the final surface, and it feels better. It looks pretty good after staining, except when I mess up and leave another card-scar. I thought that if I set up the Lie-Nielsen properly (and use it properly) there'd be no need for the hand-card scraper. What am I doing wrong?
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post #2 of 4 Old 10-05-2009, 07:56 PM
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Sorry I don't have the answer to your scraper issue

But I am really glad you mentioned this: "
"The panels that are wider were made by resawing a board, 'booking' and gluing to make a panel that's planed to 1/4" (with a 12" Delta planer). Because I'm booking, half of these wider panels will always have grain that's facing the 'wrong' direction in the planer, so has little chip-outs that I have to sand or plane out."
I've made a bunch of book matched panels but I run mine thru a dual drum sander and haven't experienced the chip out you have because of that. I didn't even think about the grain direction until you mentioned it, and you are 100% correct. Can you get your panels to a wide belt or drum sander, and avoid this problem? bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #3 of 4 Old 03-14-2010, 05:36 PM
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How much are you flexing the card scraper? They can be used anywhere from straight to curved like a drawn bow! Depends on how much stress and pain your thumbs will tolerate. A scraper plane usually has a screw to bow the "blade". A sharp scraper with a mild flex should do you quite nicely. The surface may have shallow waves that can be removed with a card hand scraper.

Personally, I think you will get a better surface than sandpaper will ever give you.

Best of Luck!
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post #4 of 4 Old 03-15-2010, 01:15 AM
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I agree. I know this is an old post, and I don't know if you've solved your problem, but I think that like anything practice will make perfect. Between the scraper plane, and regular scraper you have a good arsenal. A cabinet scraper might be nice too. I use a card scraper holder that I bought from japanwoodworking.com to hold the card for larger work surfaces. It has a screw to adjust my curve from flat to very curved and reduces fatigue. It also allows me to concentrate on my angle of attack. If your bur is to aggressive I would suggest re-tuning your edge and making a less aggressive bur. I'd play with it until you have it down and are comfortable. One of the nice things about planes and scrapers is your ability to attack problem grains from the correct direction. Perhaps if it is too much of an issue you can do a different approach to the bookmatches. Is it slip matches where they would have the same grain direction? Bookmatches are my favorite though...
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