Plane restore round 4 - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 92 Old 02-13-2013, 05:12 PM
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Love seeing your work. You have motivated me on restoring my lot.
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post #22 of 92 Old 02-13-2013, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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Love seeing your work. You have motivated me on restoring my lot.
Thanks, this is my desire, to inspire someone to either pick up a plane they would have thought was beyond saving, or to have someone get the planes they own back in working order.

I was able to inspire a local friend who is not a forum member to give me his fathers Stanley No. 4 to tune up. The plane had been well maintained over the decades, just needed to lap the sole and sharpen the blade, it was dull from use.

My friend is a woodworker, but this is his only plane. I am hoping that once he starts using this he will "see the light" and get more planes. I know they can help in his wood working projects.
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post #23 of 92 Old 02-13-2013, 07:13 PM
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I believe it is a gene mutation that drives the desire to restore old to new. If your restores don't stir any desire, the mutation just is not present.
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post #24 of 92 Old 02-13-2013, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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I believe it is a gene mutation that drives the desire to restore old to new. If your restores don't stir any desire, the mutation just is not present.
LOL. Well said.
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post #25 of 92 Old 02-13-2013, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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No more pictures today. Woodworking was interrupted by "life" as in the wife waking up thinking today was Valentine's Day and insisting we go out for lunch today since she has plans for tomorrow.

So the afternoon was not a woodwork time slot today.

I did pick up some new paint remover. It is winter in Eastern PA so not warm enough to plan on working outside with nasty paint remover fumes.

Picked up a low fume semi-paste and tried it on the No. 7 frog.

This material turns white when is has finished its action. The paint can be removed, but needs elbow grease. The rough surface of the castings do not help.

Tomorrow I will try this on the main casting of the No. 7. If this does not remove all the paint, I will have to ask a friend to take this into work for sand blasting.

Tomorrow will be completing the knob for the No. 5 and making the new tote and perhaps painting the casting and frog.

Thanks for looking and stay tuned for the next update.
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post #26 of 92 Old 02-14-2013, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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Character ir defect?

Not much progress on the No. 5 today. I was distracted by working on another plane.

I did get to finish a knob, but now I need to get feedback on the piece.

This is a question mostly for big081 since I promised he had first refusal on this No. 5.

The piece of walnut I used for the knob had a knot. This is a mixed blessing since it can add character, but also have cracks.

I tried to position the crack so that it would be removed as I turned, but the crack was deeper than I expected.

I added CA glue to the crack to try and make this stable, but as I expected, the CA become a dark line.

So big0801, do you feel this is character, or a defect?

Honest question, no problem either way. If you feel a defect, I just make another knob and find a home for this one.

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The knob has not had a finish at this time, just sanded to a fine grit.
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post #27 of 92 Old 02-15-2013, 12:49 AM
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I am of the mind that the crack, if stable, is just one of those magical cosmetic details that the wood can give. I would keep it as long as it isn't going to negatively impact the integrity of the knob.

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post #28 of 92 Old 02-15-2013, 08:45 AM
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I agree with Phaedrus. Its absolutely character. If there is no worry of the knob failing then I say leave it. I love the flaws in wood, even highlight them.
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post #29 of 92 Old 02-15-2013, 10:11 AM
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All I have to say is if it looks that good without a finish that will be an awesome knob. Total score bigg!
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post #30 of 92 Old 02-15-2013, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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All I have to say is if it looks that good without a finish that will be an awesome knob. Total score bigg!
The pen folks use micro mesh in fine grits.

I like the EEE-UltraShine. This applied by hand/finger, then buffed off on the lathe. It does improve the surface of the piece prior to the finish.

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merc...nish-shellawax
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post #31 of 92 Old 02-15-2013, 10:21 AM
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All I have to say is if it looks that good without a finish that will be an awesome knob. Total score bigg!
Oh yes. Im only worried about his hourly rate!!! So much work goes into the restoration. Ive never done a restoration of my own so Im in awe of the process and time consumption.

Dave....dont make it TOO perfect. I want to use it!!!
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post #32 of 92 Old 02-15-2013, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Dave....dont make it TOO perfect. I want to use it!!!
No worries, the sole will show the "heritage" of this puppy.

I can always switch to using one of the broken totes and tape the pieces together with duct tape, then paint the sole with fluorescent paint. Do you prefer lime green or putrid purple?
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post #33 of 92 Old 02-15-2013, 03:26 PM
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No worries, the sole will show the "heritage" of this puppy.

I can always switch to using one of the broken totes and tape the pieces together with duct tape, then paint the sole with fluorescent paint. Do you prefer lime green or putrid purple?
Uhhhh.....Ill go with super awesome nice. LOL
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post #34 of 92 Old 02-15-2013, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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Blue man group time

This is only the second time I needed to paint a plane, but already know that I have to do this for the No. 7

For the folks looking to understand the details, I am providing the pictures of how I prepare the frog and casting for paint.

In this case the jappaning easily came off with a screwdriver, brass brush, a bit of sanding.

I then wipe down all the surfaces with acetone to remove dust and any oil residues from my hands.

Then the fun part - Blue Man Group time. Protecting all the surfaces which I do not want to be painted. I expect Stanley painted first then machined. I do not have the luxury.

I use a piece of 2in masking tape along each side, then carefully fold over, cut off against the casting.

For the machined areas I cut small pieces then cut off excess with Xacto knife.

I happen to like the blue masking tape for my general woodwork. This stuff can take being clamped and still come off without tearing or leaving residue. More expensive than the crappy beige stuff, but worth it for my needs.

Plane restore round 4-plane_stanley_5_taped_prep_painting_side_1253.jpg

All holes are plugged with small pieces of paper towel twisted and then pushed into place with a small screwdriver.

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I am presently on the second coat of the paint.

Timetestedtools (Don) recommended Dupli-Color Semi-Gloss Engine Enamel, Ford Black. A very good recommendation.

This goes on bare metal, several coats each about 12 minutes apart to get a nice thick finish. Relative low odor.

Stay tuned for the later "after" pictures.
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post #35 of 92 Old 02-15-2013, 06:11 PM
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WOW blood is pumping!!! These planes must be a labor of love for you. I really enjoy doing tedious projects....I just tend to do them trial and error. Thus woodworking is great for me.
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post #36 of 92 Old 02-15-2013, 06:19 PM
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I see you opted against the lime green and purple

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post #37 of 92 Old 02-15-2013, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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WOW blood is pumping!!! These planes must be a labor of love for you. I really enjoy doing tedious projects....I just tend to do them trial and error. Thus woodworking is great for me.
What gave away my secret.
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post #38 of 92 Old 02-15-2013, 10:47 PM
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It's clear that your obsessed. Way clear! Nothing wrong with that. That feeling we all get is why we do this craft. Obsession is a good thing...well sometimes.
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post #39 of 92 Old 02-16-2013, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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After painting

The after painting and removal of the masking tape and clearing the holes pictures.

I like to remove the tape after the paint is dry to the touch but while the edge is still flexible.

Nice new paint. Right side.

Plane restore round 4-plane_stanley_5_painted__right_side_1255.jpg

Front. I did run the paint side to side, but somehow the darned hollow in the "Y" of the frog support managed to not get fully painted. I did not notice when the paint was wet. Drat. First time painting a "Y" frog support. Lesson learned.

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The lettering stands out better than it shows in the pictures, likely due to using flash. I pushed the levels in this zoomed in portion of the picture to highlight the lettering.

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The left side, just to remind you this is a user. The scar from rust pitting. The rust has been removed, but the scar of the pitting remains. This is something we have to accept with restorations and view as part of the history of the tool.

Plane restore round 4-plane_stanley_5_painted__left_side_1257.jpg

Thanks for looking.

Now to apply finish to the knob and start on the tote.
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post #40 of 92 Old 02-16-2013, 09:18 AM
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Dave, your detail is great. A a word to the wise. If you're using Dupli-color, you never want to touch up a spot like Dave missed for 7 days. It will make the rest bubble, and it is a bitch to remove. I've never personally done it, but I've received numerous "What do I do now" emails. That's what prompted the warning in my blog.
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