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post #1 of 7 Old 03-05-2011, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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New Wooden Handplane Maker

Hello I just got my site on the net selling wooden planes.They are made of Bubinga with O-1 blades and a mouth more in the center of the body .Lower and smaller than traditional planes they are sort of a fusion of different styles.Here's a picture and web address.

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post #2 of 7 Old 03-05-2011, 11:16 PM
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[quote="Andal toolworks"]Hello I just got my site on the net selling wooden planes.They are made of Bubinga with O-1 blades and a mouth more in the center of the body .Lower and smaller than traditional planes they are sort of a fusion of different styles.Here's a picture and web address.
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They look really nice!... I think you should send me a sample to evaluate and write a review on :)

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post #3 of 7 Old 03-06-2011, 05:12 AM
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Thats pretty cool..........

How about a short synopsis of your sharpening procedure?A genaral outline....am sure theres lots here that would find it interesting.....I would.BW
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post #4 of 7 Old 03-06-2011, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the nice comments I am busy adding to the site and will try to get more info up there.

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post #5 of 7 Old 03-06-2011, 03:19 PM
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I have yet to try, or own a "wood" plane. I have been getting by with old Stanley's and Lie Nielsen's since I finally was taught how to set up and use one properly. I took a look at your planes and I really like the way they look. If you plan on providing sharpening advice / direction on your site I would ask that you have some direction on how to adjust the blade. If it is as easy as setting a traditional plane you may get someone as myself to give it a shot. Again really nice looking planes!
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post #6 of 7 Old 03-10-2011, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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Sharpening

My sharpening technique is to start with a flat ground 30 degree bevel. Then with a 1000 grit waterstone I hone the bevel until I can feel a bur on the back of the blade. Flipping the blade and moving to a 4000 grit waterstone I hone the back unti the bur is gone. I then alternate honing bevel and back. When the blade will shave hair from my arm or just stick on a fingernail at about a 30 degree angle with very little pressure it should be sharp. I then strop it on my palm 20 times useing a trailing stroke. This is very dangerous and I do not recomend it, you can easily cut yourself in a moments inattention none the less this is what I do. I then oil the blade lightly.
I am not much on hollow grinds I prefer flat grinds and my bevels become convex over time. Then I regrind them just flat, I don't like to grind off any more steel than I have to.
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post #7 of 7 Old 03-11-2011, 06:12 AM
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Thanks for that description.I hollow grind,but think most folks are flat beveler's.Best of luck,BW
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