Infuriating plane problem - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 6 Old 08-31-2015, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
GISer3546's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 504
View GISer3546's Photo Album My Photos
Infuriating plane problem

My shop is without a table saw or a jointer, so all my rips are done on my Laguna 14 12 followed with a few strokes from a hand plane. I have been using hand planes for a few years now with little issues. I have a Pre-WWII stanley Baily #3, and #7. Along with a Wood River #5, and a Shelton that looks to be close to a Stanley #4.

A few weeks ago I offered to make a end grain cutting board for a friend in exchange for some light electrical work in my house. I have never made an end grain cutting board before but logic seems to indicate that all the edges of my starting stock need to be perfectly square. Of course I always check my stock for squareness but I'm working with much tighter tolerances this time around and its just not working. For some reason once my edges start getting square to the board face they start going "twisted". I'm not sure twisted would be the correct term so maybe this will explain what I'm getting.

Infuriating plane problem-planeproblem.jpg

I had this problem initially so I invested in a pile of sandpaper, which is ironic since I try to use planes due to my hatred of sand paper, and a 19" x 2" x 6" granite surfacing plate. I started by flattening my #7 which seemed to have a "twist" pattern similar to what my board edges were doing. Once that was done I assume my problem was fixed but when I got back to it with a different plane (new WoodRiver #5) and got the same results.

What with this happening regardless of the plane I'm using I assume either all my planes are "twisted" somehow, or more likely there's something I'm doing wrong here. I assure to hold the plane bed firmly to the board edge. I put my thumb on the front end of the plane and run my fingers along the board face and do my best to apply uniform pressure throughout the stroke. I try for uniform strokes but still having this problem. Can anyone offer pointers on technique or any idea of what may be happening here.
GISer3546 is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to GISer3546 For This Useful Post:
Shaper (03-28-2017)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 6 Old 08-31-2015, 01:27 PM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 25,266
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
I'm no handplane expert but...

Here's what I would try. Clamp a straight and square board next to your workpiece so you can rest part of the sole of plane on it as reference.

Hold the plane a at a skew angle to the workpiece and move your entire upper body along when you plane, not just your arms.

Run your iron out a bit past the sole to see if it's parallel to the sole opening by backlighting it. You can feel a slight difference with the palm of your hand, if you are "good" at that. Run a shaving off a Pine board and see if it's a uniform thickness or a wedge.

You can make a handplane sled as someone here posted.. Delevin:

"The sides of the plane run on the strips of wood which I attach using double sided tape normally and then I plane the timber down until it takes no more shavings. Works a great for my circumstances."


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 08-31-2015 at 01:46 PM.
woodnthings is offline  
post #3 of 6 Old 08-31-2015, 01:27 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Near Boston, Massachusetts
Posts: 1,505
View amckenzie4's Photo Album My Photos
I've had similar issues that I think were caused by how I was standing and moving the plane. The way I was working it was easy to put more weight on the workbench side of the board at the beginning of the stroke and more weight on my side of the board at the end. I started keeping my upper body pretty much locked and moving myself along the board with my legs, and it resolved a lot of the issue.

Now my boards are still out of square, but at least they're consistent!
amckenzie4 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 6 Old 08-31-2015, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
GISer3546's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 504
View GISer3546's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Here's what I would try. Clamp a straight and square board next to your workpiece so you can rest part of the sole of plane on it as reference.

Hold the plane a at a skew angle to the workpiece and move you entire upper body along when you plan, not just your arms.

Run your iron a bit past the sole to see if it's parallel to the sole opening by backlighting it. You can feel a
slight difference with the palm of your hand, if you are "good" at that. Run a shaving off a Pine board and see if it's a uniform thickness or a wedge.
Appreciate it woodnthings but I'm a little confused by this. However I will try locking my upper body and walking the plane down the stock.

by the way, the difference in "High" and "Low" is probably about 1/32". Are my tolerances too high? Will a gap that size offer issues in joining?
GISer3546 is offline  
post #5 of 6 Old 08-31-2015, 01:50 PM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 25,266
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
The longer the board, the more difficult it is to keep the plane in a constant motion... you run out of "room".
If you can keep your boards under 24" that would help.

You plane iron may be set too deep and you are using too much effort and thereby twisting it a bit. I think 1/32" is still too much, but over what distance?

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
woodnthings is offline  
post #6 of 6 Old 08-31-2015, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
GISer3546's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 504
View GISer3546's Photo Album My Photos
They are about 24" long. And my plane was set to take very light cuts... wispy light curls was all i was taking off.
GISer3546 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Stanley 45 Plane Quo Fan General Woodworking Discussion 4 10-03-2015 07:45 AM
biscuit cutter problem Ronnie1a Power Tools & Machinery 2 08-25-2015 02:52 PM
Jet jointer 6csx infeed table adjustment problem MJMWOOD Power Tools & Machinery 2 08-24-2015 01:23 PM
stanley bailey plane imknotsquare Hand Tools 7 08-11-2015 04:48 PM
problem with dewalt dw708 razko Power Tools & Machinery 12 08-08-2015 10:37 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome