Help with a Hand Plane - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 07-12-2015, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Help with a Hand Plane

I recently purchased and cleaned up an old Stanley #6. I used sand paper and a piece of granite from and old dresser to flatten the sides and sole. The original iron was pretty rough and since I'm new to planes I just replaced it with a Iron from hock.

I know it's technically a fore plane but I was hoping to use it to clean up rough lumber sine I don't have a jointer. As I've been practicing I keep having the same issue. I'm getting a slight bevel on my edges as I take shavings. The corners are sharp but it's like you ripped a board with a slight bevel on the blade of your table saw. My guess is my blade isn't straight in the plane but it's happening almost every time.

Could there be an issue with the tool or is it operator error?

Thanks in advance for your help..
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post #2 of 6 Old 07-12-2015, 09:27 PM
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A #6 can do a lot of work. Edge jointing is always a challenge. To set the depth of the blade, adjust going forward. This will keep the blade notch in the adjustment tight against the planning action so there isn't any back slack and the blade won't move. Then set the lateral adjustment for the blade. If this isn't straight across the plane sole, you will cut a bevel, since the blade will be cutting deeper on one side. It's normal that you will need to adjust the depth a little more after making the lateral adjustment. With handplanes, try to do just enough and no more. Over doing will just cause problems with little inaccuracies getting compounded. Stop after two passes and check your progress. just cut the areas that need it, not the whole piece until everything is ready for that one last unifying cut. It can take hundreds of hours to master handplanes, be patient, think it through.
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post #3 of 6 Old 07-12-2015, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice.
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post #4 of 6 Old 07-12-2015, 11:36 PM
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I have always had the same problem. I just use my powered jointer. Someday, I want to learn to joint a board with a hand plane. It is probably user error on both of our parts.
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post #5 of 6 Old 08-17-2015, 11:53 PM
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For edge jointing by hand, I do most of it with my Stanley 5 1/2. Some day I will own a real jointer plane! However, for "most" furniture parts my 5 1/2 is plenty long enough so your 6 should be fine.

My first question, is how are you holding it. When edge jointing, I don't hold the knob, I use my hand as a fence against the face of the board like this


Next make sure you blade isn't skewed. Sight down the sole against a white(piece of paper) back ground should be able to tell you if you're too far off.

Next, to fix a skewed edge, do the following:
  1. Determine which side of the edge is the "high" side.
  2. Push the plane over to the edge that is high. You won't be taking a full width shaving, which is what you want. Take a few shavings off from just the high side. DO NOT try to tip the plane into square.
  3. Take a full width shaving from the edge. Might take a couple passes, but you should get a full width shaving.
  4. Check if the edge is square. Repeat the previous 2 steps until it's square.
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post #6 of 6 Old 08-18-2015, 12:21 AM
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just dug through my books. The technique I'm talking about above is listed on page 61 of this book. The illustrations on the bottom right corner of the page do a far better job of explaining that I did above

https://books.google.com/books?id=y6...0edges&f=false
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