Hand cut dove tails for new guys - Page 4 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #61 of 80 Old 02-22-2012, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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A note earlier I was not happy with one of the tails being square so marked it up again and parred it square this will make a difference in the size of the pins and tails but not a big difference and as said a couple of times now these are hand cut and not cut by a machine.

The marks of the pins are transferred down to the bass line and every thing is ready for cut out.

I used a 8" gents saw for the tails and to face cut the pins,only to show that it can be used for this work just as well.

The only thing that I have against gents saws is that some times the handles are junk I mean that, I`v some times seen better handles on files.

I made this handle out of a piece of beech it fits well in the hand and really makes a difference to how the saw reacts.

I didn't cut chips out of the marks because there is a fair a mount of chisel work to be done and its just as easy to par to the knife marks.

I use the gents saw to cut a line from the bass line to the gauge mark on the end grain of the maranti,this cut line is only to help when hogging out the wood in between the pins.

Clamped to the bench and and ready to go.
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post #62 of 80 Old 02-22-2012, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firemedic View Post
Good job on the thread Billy De. Good decision to roll with the mistake as it's realistic.

It's a little different but still the same as my method... one of the great aspects of wood working!

ps, sawdust, looks like you had a great time and learned a lot

~tom "Ignorance is not a lack of intelligence - it's a lack of know-how"

Tom I took the decision to roll with it be cause we all make mistakes and a new guy may think he is the only one making them,its how we get around mistakes that counts
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post #63 of 80 Old 02-22-2012, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy De

Tom I took the decision to roll with it be cause we all make mistakes and a new guy may think he is the only one making them,its how we get around mistakes that counts
I couldn't agree more.

~tom "Ignorance is not a lack of intelligence - it's a lack of know-how"
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post #64 of 80 Old 02-22-2012, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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Now I start to chop out but Keeping clear of the bass line.
I`m using a sash mortice chisel because you can beat this thing and it will just take it.

Some may question my use of a rubber mallet but I don't wont to beat my chisels with any thing that is just as hard, or harder than the handles.

GO back to the end grain and chop into the waste,when I sawed into the waste it only saws at a rough angel of 45 degrees you have to get a chisel in there so you can chip the waste out.

When you`v hogged most of it out time to put it back in the vice ready for parring
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post #65 of 80 Old 02-22-2012, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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These are my skew chisels IMHO the best skew chisels are bevel edged and about 1/4" wide I made these from chisels i picked up second-hand and very cheap.

I have parring chisels but if your using bench chisels they must be sharp if they are new the chances are they will need to be honed lean how to do it ,it will really pay you back.

Place the chisel in the knife marks and press away no mallet the idea is to split the knife marks.

Normal chisel may have problems getting into the corner and you may have to push into the wood to get in to the corner,Skew chisels are very sweet at this and that point is very sharp.

Keep working away at it till your happy with the shape of the pins.
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post #66 of 80 Old 02-22-2012, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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Last post.



Glue up,clean up and the two pieces together.
It`s as easy or as difficult as that.

It makes me call to mind the words that where said to me on the day I became a Journeyman"Well now you Know it all" LOL
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post #67 of 80 Old 02-22-2012, 07:07 PM
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Thanks for all the time and effort you put into this thread. Those DT's turned out really good and I personally learned a lot. Thanks!
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post #68 of 80 Old 02-28-2012, 09:24 AM
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That was a great trend lots of good info I'm sorry I didn't catch it earlier but am really glad I found it. Thanks for all your insight I really learned a lot being fairly new to this.
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post #69 of 80 Old 02-28-2012, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Your welcome Moose ,this thread is for new guys just like you.It would be interesting to hear(or see) if any one else has had a go at dove tails for the first time. Any one else that is about to try them good luck and enjoy it. billy
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post #70 of 80 Old 02-28-2012, 04:43 PM
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Thanks! This was very informative for a new guy like me!
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post #71 of 80 Old 02-29-2012, 12:57 AM
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I have been lurking on this site for quite sometime and felt like my first post belonged on this thread.

I really appreciate you taking the time to lay this out. I have never tried dovetails before but after reading this thread you spiked my interest and I have spent the last few nights in the shop cutting dovetails. I can't say that they are looking as good as your's, but they are getting better.

Thanks for taking the time to explain the process as you have. It has been great and I look forward to reaching the point where I can add this technique to my future projects.
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post #72 of 80 Old 03-01-2012, 12:08 PM
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I wish this thread existed about a month earlier. Phenominal information, thanks for posting this!
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post #73 of 80 Old 03-01-2012, 01:02 PM
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Great job on the tutorial Billy.
I stashed away a couple of fantastic tips on that one.
The notch with the marking knife is a good one.

Marking......
Orientation of the four boards can get very confusing if you don't mark them with a fool prove method like you do.
People use letters and numbers and arrows and others.
I like your method of marking.

Here is another one that I use.
It's call the triangle marking method.
It was taught to me by Thos Moser himself when I took a class from him many many years ago.



It makes it easy to know the inside, outside, right side and left side.

Thanks again Billy De...you're good...you are very good.....

Learning more about tools everyday
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post #74 of 80 Old 03-01-2012, 08:17 PM
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Billy, great tutorial! Well done.

I was wondering why you chose half tails instead of half pins.
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post #75 of 80 Old 03-02-2012, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Well guys Let me say a big thanks for the feed back,this was my fist try at a tutorial and believe me I learnt a lot. At the beginning I think i was trying to put to much information into it and not allowing you guys to ventilate and ask questions and I was trying to much to lead the thread.

In the second part of the thread I eased off and left things open to give you guys the chance to ask questions.
If I know the answer I`ll give it if I don`t I won`t simple as that.
To think that a guy is trying this for the first time because of this post to me is awesome,

Chunter Ksu thank you for the privilege of you fist post but don`t let it be your last there is a lot of knowledge on this forum and the guys are willing to give it and there is no such thing as a stupid question.


tcleve4911 that really is a great tip it`s so simple there is just no way it will get messed up, nice one.


Brink good question the idea of the thread was to show how to do hand cut dove tails and while it is said the best way to show dove tails on a drawer is to start and finish with a half pin,not every dove tail is a drawer.


The way I was taught to cut dove tails on a drawer was to cut it with a half tail on the bottom and a half pin on the top.
Wow that sounds crazy but it works and this is why when you cut the grove for the bottom of the draw the grove is cut through the half tail and the grove on the face is covered by the half tail, so you can only see the grove from the front.

When it is a through dove tail a false face is fitted so no grove is seen,when it is a half blind dove tail the face covers the grove and again it is not seen.

At the back of the drawer the back is cut off at the top of the grove and the base is screwed into the back.I realise That is a left over from when the base of the drawer was solid wood but it allows me to square the drawer up at glue up and later fit the base.


Now there are exception to this, say you where cutting a London paten dove tail in which the pins are really tiny and the tails are big in this case you can start with a pin on the bottom and finish with a pin on the top.

But the grove still is cut through the bottom tail you don`t loose any depth in the draw and you still don`t see the grove.

In all cases I finish with a pin in the top so the drawer is full and is not chopped into to except the tail.
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post #76 of 80 Old 03-02-2012, 09:29 PM
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Wow, that was terrific. I just seen it , just became a member. I sure am glad somebody said they were interested and got you putting this out. I dont know that I ever would have done this but now I will. i hope I find more info on the saw sharpening like this dovetail post cause I dont quite get it all.

Anyway thanks Dee good job
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post #77 of 80 Old 03-16-2012, 12:30 PM
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I got a new (to me) Veritas 14 pt dovetail saw for my birthday. It arrived last night and here's my first attempt with it today. There not great and it's some pretty soft pine and my chisels weren't super sharp, but it is what it is.
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post #78 of 80 Old 03-17-2012, 09:46 AM
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Ok I'll play, my first attempt at hand cut dovetails (started prior to this thread):


And then with a big thanks to Billy, my first attempts at half blinds:


Unfortunately I already cut all of the pieces to size, without leaving room for a little bit of overhang to pare away prior to seeing this thread. I'm confident that with the help of this thread and everyone else on the board that these are only going to get better from here
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post #79 of 80 Old 03-17-2012, 02:40 PM
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this was a fantastic thread! I can't wait to have a project where i can create some dove tails. Thanks so much for putting all this out there. It's been very informative and super helpful
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post #80 of 80 Old 09-11-2013, 05:38 PM
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Is dovetail good way to make some drawers. I was thinking to make some drawers for my tools. Using this kind a work.But i tried once and it wasn't go right.It hasn't fit enaugh.So i give up.But now looking on forum i have wish to make one like these.
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