#4 plane issue - set up or technique? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 12 Old 07-24-2012, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Evilfrog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Alton, IL
Posts: 160
View Evilfrog's Photo Album My Photos
#4 plane issue - set up or technique?

I believe this is a mid 90's #4. It has a Hock blade / breaker. The blade is sharpened using water stones all the way to 8000. The blade has a slight chamber This is spruce. You can see the tear out, and i'm getting a pretty rough line on the corners. It also seems that the right side of the blade "bites" into the wood deeper than the left. The picture is up side down, you can see the line on the right. The line up the left is a glue line. The lateral adjustment on the plane is pretty loose.

I have flattened the plane, but there are chips around the mouth.Should I flatten more? Maybe more of a camber on the blade?







Evilfrog is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 12 Old 07-24-2012, 09:04 PM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 25,585
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
maybe this will help

http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/camber.html

for scrub planes:
http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sha...crubsharp.html

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
woodnthings is online now  
post #3 of 12 Old 07-24-2012, 09:15 PM
Senior Member
 
Dave Paine's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 7,221
View Dave Paine's Photo Album My Photos
A recent thread on another site had a very interesting discussion on the placement of the cap iron.

The "sound bite" summary is to have the cap iron as close to the edge as possible, and to be 80 deg to the wood.

Check your cap iron.

Also check the blade is parallel to the sole of the plane. Very easy to be slightly off.
Dave Paine is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 12 Old 07-24-2012, 09:52 PM
In History is the Future
 
firemedic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: South Louisiana - Gonzales
Posts: 6,424
View firemedic's Photo Album My Photos
Taking sharpening out of the equation - Sounds like the iron is simply set too deep... If the panel is not flat you will have the false sense that it is two shallow... when it does bite it diggs in.

I suggest checking the plane on the side of a board when tuning to remove some of that error. When doing so check the shavings too. If they ate thicker to one side adjust it laterally.

That's my $0.02

EDIT:
watch the grain runout direction too.
firemedic is offline  
post #5 of 12 Old 07-24-2012, 10:06 PM
Senior Member
 
Paul W Gillespie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Anne Arundel County, Maryland
Posts: 1,183
View Paul W Gillespie's Photo Album My Photos
I am no expert, but from my reading, it looks like the mouth is set pretty wide for a No4 smoothing plane. Is that what you meant Tom saying that the iron is set too deep or did you mean it was sticking too far out of the sole and taking a huge cut?

If you have not read it yet get The Hand Plane Book by Garrett Hack. I got it from the library and it has taught me a bunch about planes.
Paul W Gillespie is offline  
post #6 of 12 Old 07-24-2012, 10:10 PM
In History is the Future
 
firemedic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: South Louisiana - Gonzales
Posts: 6,424
View firemedic's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul W Gillespie
I am no expert, but from my reading, it looks like the mouth is set pretty wide for a No4 smoothing plane. Is that what you meant Tom saying that the iron is set too deep or did you mean it was sticking too far out of the sole and taking a huge cut?

If you have not read it yet get The Hand Plane Book by Garrett Hack. I got it from the library and it has taught me a bunch about planes.
I was referring to the depth of cut, but yes tightening up the mouth would also help by better supporting the grain as it's being cut.
firemedic is offline  
post #7 of 12 Old 07-25-2012, 01:30 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 18
View Puma's Photo Album My Photos
More camber.

I certainly don't mean this condescendingly, are you petting the cat's fur from head to tail? That looks like tearout from planing the wrong direction.
Puma is offline  
post #8 of 12 Old 07-25-2012, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Evilfrog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Alton, IL
Posts: 160
View Evilfrog's Photo Album My Photos
So... More camber, adjust the frog forward so I have a smaller mouth, and make sure planing in the correct direction.
Evilfrog is offline  
post #9 of 12 Old 08-06-2012, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Evilfrog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Alton, IL
Posts: 160
View Evilfrog's Photo Album My Photos
Well. I've played around with it a bit. It's better. I camber the blade more. Move the frog forward so there is less of mouth opening. I think the issue is with the cap. It seems the blade is to ready to float to either side. I just noticed this last night. I would have it set up to what I thought was perfect, then make a pass, and the gap would be smaller on the right side than the left side. I would adjust the blade, and the same thing would happen again.
Evilfrog is offline  
post #10 of 12 Old 08-06-2012, 03:27 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 479
View Billy De's Photo Album My Photos
I could be wrong but try this,let the locking cap go and take it off the plane back the iron into the plane with the depth adjusting wheel.
Now turn the screw that hold the locking cap in place just a 1/4 of a turn down, put the locking cap back on and press the cam down.How does it feel ?Tight loose? turn the depth of the iron with the wheel how dose that feel tight ? loose? if it is loose take the cap off again and turn the screw a bit more put the cap back on.

Keep doing this till you can feel the weight come on the adjusting Wheel,you should still be able to adjust the depth with your thumb andfore finger.Turn the plane over and look down the sole from front to back set the iron out with the wheel till you can see the iron coming out of the sole.

Adjust the iron for square with the lateral adjuster, good?
Back the iron back into the plan and now your ready to plane take a run at the wood and little by little sneak up on the wood take just a whisper the more and more till you get to where your taking of what you want to.Give it a go and see.

Last edited by Billy De; 08-06-2012 at 03:34 PM.
Billy De is offline  
post #11 of 12 Old 08-07-2012, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Evilfrog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Alton, IL
Posts: 160
View Evilfrog's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy De View Post

Adjust the iron for square with the lateral adjuster, good?
Back the iron back into the plan and now your ready to plane take a run at the wood and little by little sneak up on the wood take just a whisper the more and more till you get to where your taking of what you want to.Give it a go and see.
The issue is with the lateral adjustment. I can get it square, it doesn't stay square. I'm going to tighten up the cap when I get a chance. (maybe tomorrow) But the forward adjustment screw is pretty tight.
Evilfrog is offline  
post #12 of 12 Old 08-07-2012, 06:18 PM
In History is the Future
 
firemedic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: South Louisiana - Gonzales
Posts: 6,424
View firemedic's Photo Album My Photos
I've never experienced that problem with a sharp iron. I'm wondering if the lever cap might need a little attention? Possibly due to poor casting... Have you checked the back for flatness?
firemedic is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New Episode of Blue Collar Woodworking: Da Plane! Da Plane! StumpyNubs General Woodworking Discussion 10 04-04-2012 11:13 AM
I solved the power hand plane issue. Jim West Pa General Woodworking Discussion 6 09-12-2011 10:48 AM
not sure if I have this quite right (wipe on technique) LMHmedchem Wood Finishing 7 12-26-2010 12:00 AM
Just practicing technique Kenbo Woodturning 7 09-01-2009 07:26 AM
Block plane technique Aaronmcc Hand Tools 12 05-02-2008 05:38 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome