Ray

Hey guys,

I am thinking about building a 10'x12' wood shed on top of either a concrete footing or slab in my back yard. I was wondering if anybody knows where I might look for some prints with engineering that I could use. I could make them but I have to imagine this has already been done a thousand times and it would save me the trouble of finding the cad program (to make the drawing on my computer) for it and a lot of time. Plus I could prob change the engineering to suit the local requirements I need much easier than going thru all that from scratch.

I know I could buy the pre made things at Home Depot or Lowes or wherever but I dont think they would be as sturdy as I would make it with the specific purposes that I have in mind. Plus it would be cheaper if I did it myself. I'm not ruling it out altogether but this is how I'm thinking atm.

So does anybody here have any ideas about how I might find some plans for a basic plywood covered 2x4 (wall studs) shed? (With maybe 2x6 rafters?)

Thanks. :)

cabinetman

WELCOME TO THE FORUM

You might take a look at this site. After purchasing our present home, the metal shed (8'x10') needed replacing. I thought it would be faster and cheaper to just buy the metal kits. So I got two 10'x12' Arrow sheds. What a PITA to put together.

After Wilma, one of the sheds just vanished. The whole shell up and went bye bye. Everything inside was left right where it was. Very uncanny. So, I built one from scratch.
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In this pic, the shed on the left remains, the one on the right - gone. everything inside disheveled.
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This is in the framing stages.
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This is the completed shed.
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garryswf

Ray,
Not knowing what part of the south you are from ( Fl., Ga., ?) and if you are in a hurricane prone area would determine the construction process. If you are going to build this 10x12 shed (ATIJMO) i would recommend, and this is over and above any local codes, construction adhesive and screws to secure the plywood to the 2x4 walls and the same would go for the roof. I myself live in in hurricane prone area and have seen how minimal code requirements withstand a big blow. ( Hurricane Charley) Good Luck to you!

Cabinetman that is a nice looking shed you built, also i great set of plans you posted for Ray.

Ray

Thanks Cabinetman. I should be able to use this make my 10x12 with a few adjustments. And thanks Gary, Im in central Florida and will prob over build it a tad bit. Ive done a lot of projects in the Virgin Islands so Im used to it.

Can you guys recommend a cad program that might be pretty useful for doing these kind of drawings? Price is not a real concern, but the simpler the better works for me most of the time.

chunky

Ray,
Proceed with caution - I'm in central Florida and just a couple weeks ago received my permit from my city to build a 12 x 20 work shed. I had to submit blueprints engineered for 110 mph winds. Also had to comply with setback from property line according to city code and installation of tiedowns. Electrical is another permit and must comply with National Electrical Code.
Blueprints from licensed architect, engineering, permits and about $600 later, I'm ready to build. Of course, it must be inspected at stages along the way. The city figures $35 a square foot and will add $8,400 increased property improvements to compute future property taxes.
Other than complying with city laws, most important is the consequences. If a shed is built without permits, the city requires it be torn down or removed from property plus other penalties. Most important - since the hurricanes the past few years, insurance companies are looking for everything - my city engineer told me they (the insurance companies) are aggressively canceling insurance policies for unpermited sheds, home additions, etc., and if there would be damage from any future incident they (the insurance company) will review for permits and refuse to cover any damage.
I don't want to appear to be preaching here and I believe in property rights as much as the next guy, but after a review of cost versus reward, or rather cost versus penalties, a few thousand dollar shed, ain't worth it. I recommend checking with local shed companies - usually they have already submited plans to all the local cities, counties, etc., for pre-approval and include all that in their pricing.
Please - proceed cautiously.

Regards,
Don

Kenbo

http://www.shedplans.com/
http://just-sheds.com/Free_shed_plans.htm
Check these ones out.

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mics_54

Usually the municipality in which you are building will have a builders guide available (often online and downloadable) referencing the code adoptions, construction details and other pertinant information needed to submit construction plans for permit approval.

Typically a cad program doesnt have necessary details for local requirements but rather generic details which may or may not be addiquate for such permits, however, depending upon the platform used by the cad program, files of details may be readily available for import into the drawings.

First step would be to stop by or call your local permitting office/ city hall and ask for the builders guide.

mics_54

Just a quick check at some florida construction permitting sites indicates many municipalities don't require permits for sheds under 200 sq ft.

Ray

Ive talked to authorities and got all the pertinent paperwork. They make a big deal if its over 120 sq ft. But since mine is at or under 120 then Im alright. In other words its easier and cheaper. I can do the engineering myself and avoid the architect nonsense. I havent decided if Im going to do the electrical yet. Probably should if I can.

I would imagine that I can make small adjustments in most cads. I just dont know which ones (cads) are the easiest. In fact I may be able to do most of the drawing with a cad and fill in the rest by hand if nothing else.

As far as hurricane resistant ... base plate tie downs are fairly easy to do with the slab and hurricane clips are fairly simple too before and after the requisite glue and screw everywhere. Im not in too big a hurry.

woodnthings

No permits, taxes, only a license fee and you'll need a place to park it.
It won't be 12' wide of course, but a window here or there and a slide out room...who knows, just a thought. Makes a great spray booth too!
bill

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Never stand directly in front of a horse or tablesaw that's running!
If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

mics_54

How close is this to what you want? Wider door? windows? more/ less eave over hang?

Attachment 11407

Plywood exterior? T111? Comp roof? metal? More pitch? Different type roof?

Ray

Thanks guys. Im not dead certain yet if I want to go with all wood or all metal as far as studs and rafters go. Trying to weigh cost vs practicality. Im thinking about plywood or T111 for the skin. Not sure about which way to go on that either. Also thinking about roll roofing for the roofing (on plywood) on a relatively shallow pitch (maybe about a 2.5/12). I think a failrly big door on the front would do with no windows. The big door making it easier to get materials in and out and the lack of windows contributing to greater security. As far as overhang I know that less overhang stands up better against high winds but more overhang is better for run off and shade. I'll probably have to sick with relatively little overhang. I dont know .. maybe about about 6"?

mic 54 - Your attachment doesnt work for me.

cabinetman

For roofing, I used a product I bought at Lowes. The panels are 49"x79" and are about $15 each. Check it out here.

Ray

Wow, that looks pretty nice cabinetman. You just nail it down with neoprene washers on the high ridges like regular corrugated metal roofing?

Hmm.. if I used sleepers I could avoid the plywood and maybe save a few bucks.

mics_54

Yea I was never much of a psychic.

cabinetman

You don't need plywood or decking. Install purlins (1x2's) across the rafters. There is a ridge panel 12" wide x 79" long for covering ridge joints. The panels can be painted and cut very easily.

mics_54

Cabinetman, I surmise that Ray was refering to purlins when he said "Hmm.. if I used sleepers I could avoid the plywood and maybe save a few bucks.". But I am guessing.

Ray

Yup. Sorry for the malfuntionary terminology.

PatJewett

I recently completed construction of my backyard shed. I built it on skids so that it could be picked up and moved with a fork-lift if necessary. The only thing left is to run power to it. I was just going to buy some heavy guage wire and run it underground about 18 inches deep. A friend said I needed to put it in a PVC pipe to be safe. Is that true?

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Pat Jewett
Fanimation Ceiling Fans
Programmable Thermostats
Structural Foam

mics_54

UFB can be buried without conduit. 2 foot deep. Get locates done to avoid other buried utilities. It should be armored where it comes out of the ground .