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Old 10-20-2009, 07:29 AM   #1
garryswf
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Default TS fence and Rails

I could use any information, including pictures if you could post them, that pertain to rails and fence for a table saw. A friend and i are in the process of designing this for my saw on his CAD program. I know this may sound alittle frugal (cheap to some folks) but i do enjoy making things like this and have enough experience working with metal to pull something like this off. Metal thickness, square tubing and angle dementions for the front and rear rail, and anything else, including a picture of the locking mechanism for the fence would be nice. Thanks

Last edited by garryswf; 10-20-2009 at 07:53 AM.
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Old 10-20-2009, 10:01 AM   #2
Gerry KIERNAN
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Hi Garry

I am a little like you, in that I am always trying to save a buck, and like to build things. Given the staggering cost of a good table saw rip fence system, such as a Beismeyer, I don't blame you a bit for trying to build your own. I would take a good look at the Beismeyer system as a starting point if I were in your position. I am not saying it can't be improved, but I have that style on my contractor saw, and it seems to work quite well.

Gerry
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Old 10-20-2009, 10:09 AM   #3
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When the Biesemeyer first came out a buddy and I made up a rudimentary "T" square type fence that worked pretty good. Below is a rough drawing from memory.

You could go to one of the online fence systems and pull up a parts list with an explosion drawing. Or hike over to a Rockler or Woodcraft store and check one out...and make notes.








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Old 10-20-2009, 01:33 PM   #4
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Default rails and fence

Thanks guys for the information. I have already purchased 21/2x21/2 square tubing and 3x3 angle. I think i have figured out a way to fasten the tubing directly to the front of the saw and eliminate the angle the tubing normally fastens to. I will try to get a picture on this thread so you can see the method to my madness. Thanks again.
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Old 10-20-2009, 03:29 PM   #5
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Default Just a start

[attach]ts-fence-rails-004.jpg[/attach] The pictures show the finished length of the rails and how i intend to attach the fence to the front rail in order to move it from side to side. The angle directly under the tubing "which in the end will be the fence" will be 11" long made of 2.5x2.5x3/16" angle. There will be a 2x2x1/8" angle bolted from the underside the full length of the tubing which will give the top angle a channel to slide in. Any suggestions or comments? I am going into this with an open mind so type away guys, who knows when this project is complete we all might have come up with a should i say "better mouse trap". I think i have the locking mechinism figured out but beings this is the first fence i have attempted i will probably be wrong. There will be a 3/4" all thread rod going the length inside the fence tubing which will, in the end lock the fence in place from the back rail. I think what i have in mind will work but if it does not i can convert to the cam lock system, for a cost of $35.00 plus shipping. That is what the cam lock cost purchased from Biesmeyer.
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Old 10-20-2009, 08:25 PM   #6
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Default The Beise

Slides horizontally on nylon glides and has rear face nylon glides. You can make a cam lock, Just take a 3/4" or 1" round and drill a hole slightly off center on the flat face for a through bolt, instant cam. Then drill and tap a hole on the round side for the lever, probably 3/8" or 1/2" for the handle. Or just weld on a 1/2" rod with a threaded end for a plastic knob. It bears on a welded tongue which presses againt the front face of the rectangle tube. Looks good so far, just don't slide metal on metal. And I'm sure you know the Beise only locks at the front, no through bolt needed. I love both of mine..... bill
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ts-fence-rails-100_1191.jpg   ts-fence-rails-100_1193.jpg  
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Last edited by woodnthings; 10-20-2009 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 10-21-2009, 05:34 PM   #7
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Is that a case of beer i see under you TS? I may be old but i'm not blind (yet)
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Old 10-21-2009, 08:12 PM   #8
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Default Yea,... so?

Takes one to spot one. I'd say Strohs, in case you were wondering and that case has been empty for at least 25 years. They used to sell 'em for .50 apiece here in Detroit at the brewery. They make great parts storage boxes, strong and plastic coated. Now quit lookin' around for trouble, keep this a secret between us. OK? bill
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Old 10-24-2009, 01:05 PM   #9
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Default rails

Finally have the rails mounted, and have already got the fence ready to assemble, thanks again Bill.ts-fence-rails-004.jpg

ts-fence-rails-003.jpg
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Old 10-24-2009, 01:13 PM   #10
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Thumbs down Great Job Garry!

I got a couple of saws that need a fence made.... No just kidding. Can't wait to see the fence and how you ended up locking it to the rails. Keep posting. BTW stop in I'll buy you a beer! bill
BTW part 2 they make plastic end caps for various size tubes..or you can use a piece of hardwood as a plug with reduced ends and rounded corners. Those things hurt when you walk into them in the dark! They're right at the "wrong" height! You can keep things like straight edges inside if you don't plug them too tight and then forget where you put "things" . bill
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Old 10-24-2009, 09:11 PM   #11
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That's beautiful, Garry.
I have enough trouble getting wood projects right, let alone metal. I'm impressed.
Dave
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Old 10-25-2009, 08:57 AM   #12
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Default Racking my brain

Bill,
The fence will lock to the rails the same way your Biesemeyer does, the three point locking is a piece of cake, thanks again for the pics. I considered buying the cam lever for the Biese but hey that would kinda be cheating on this project. My biggest issue was how to make the fence so it could be squared to the mitre groove, but i think i have that figured out, but i will take any suggestions!!! BTW those oak pallets you see in the back ground will be a small table and chairs for the grandson, soon as i get the saw done.

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Old 10-25-2009, 09:31 AM   #13
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Default Well, let's keep going on this

The Beise uses a full length "bar behind the rear of the fence with nylon glides in front of set screws on the right and left ends. The set screws bear against the bar which is "tack" welded in the center and springs out on either end. It's pretty simple actually. I'll post some pix Gotta go now! bill
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ts-fence-rails-100_1238.jpg   ts-fence-rails-100_1239.jpg   ts-fence-rails-100_1240.jpg   ts-fence-rails-100_1241.jpg  
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Last edited by woodnthings; 10-25-2009 at 10:46 AM.
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Old 10-25-2009, 09:55 AM   #14
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The rails look rock solid Garry. Looking forward to seeing the fence you build. Are the rails powder coated?

Gerry
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Old 10-25-2009, 10:00 AM   #15
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Bill - I think i got what you mean, and i was thinking the adjusting part of this would be the hardest. A pic would be nice. If the local Woodcraft store would have had the Biesemeyer fence in stock it sure would have saved you alot of aggrivation!

Gerry - No sir it is not powder coated, just Painted.

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Old 10-25-2009, 10:55 AM   #16
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Default No aggravation at all!

Quote:
Originally Posted by garryswf View Post
Bill - I think i got what you mean, and i was thinking the adjusting part of this would be the hardest. A pic would be nice. If the local Woodcraft store would have had the Biesemeyer fence in stock it sure would have saved you alot of aggrivation!
Gerry - No sir it is not powder coated, just Painted.
Hey Garry, if you're ambitious/courageous enough to do this, I'm glad to help out. If you're going to order the cam lock from Beise why not get the rub shoe as well, save on shipping for 2 pieces instead of one. Maybe they would have the nylon glide pieces as well? Oh heck, just ship the whole fence! bill
BTW post the URL for the parts dept.from Biese if you can. bill
SEE PHOTOS IN POST ABOVE ^.
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Last edited by woodnthings; 10-25-2009 at 11:06 AM.
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Old 10-25-2009, 11:55 AM   #17
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Bill,
I am not buying the cam lock for the Biese, i want to make it myself. Buying it would be counter productive/not cost effective/and anyway i like a good challenge. I am amazed at how simple the Biese fence really is. OMT, the only reason i want all the pictures is to get a good look at that Strohs beer case, been along time since i have seen one of them!!!!!!!! That is what my dad used to drink "FIRE BREWED", at that time "VERY early 60s" i think it cost around 35 to 50 cents a bottle, maybe.

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Old 10-25-2009, 05:09 PM   #18
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Default Grrrrr!

Now I suppose I have to go take a picture of an empty Strohs Box?
When you stoppin' by for a Labatts? bill
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Old 10-26-2009, 07:24 AM   #19
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Default No more beer case remarks

There will be no more remarks about the empty Strohs beer case. I understand this is a woodworking forum , and such talk should not be permitted . OMT, is Labatts a dance or a beer

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Old 10-26-2009, 01:28 PM   #20
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Let's talk shop safety, here, folks.
Especially concerning beer...








Never, !ever! put that wet beer can on your tablesaw top .


Sorry, a little off topic, but I am looking forward to seeing the finished fence, Garry.
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