Trestle Table - how to build this one? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

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post #1 of 22 Old 10-25-2009, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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Trestle Table - how to build this one?

i love this trestle table. sadly it sells for $2800 and would take me a long time to save up for.. in fact, i could probably build it myself before i could save that much.


i'm stumped though, on how to connect the table top to the ' X ' shaped base. the table is probably a hundred pounds.. and you know somebody is going to lift the table to move it into a new position in the room.. so the connection has to be strong.

what i know about table making is that the top has to be connected in such a way that it still allows for movement due to moisture expansion/shrinkage.

i have seen on the net these tabs or table top clips that are screwed into the under side of the table top and then rotate to slide into a slot (biscuit cut) of the horizontal piece at the top of the X bracing. this would work, but i doubt its strong enough .. even 4 of these per side.

what else is out there?

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post #2 of 22 Old 10-25-2009, 05:19 PM
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$2800????

They must be kidding! What's it made out of wood from Queen Victoria's Bed? Or unobtainium, but it looks like pine to me. To answer your question about the top attachment just repeat the leg and foot detail underneath making it a little wider, and slot the attachment holes 1/4" over each side from center, center the screws and snug them up, but not overtight, to allow for movement. bill
Check out this thread as well: Expansion Lesson

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo

Last edited by woodnthings; 10-25-2009 at 07:25 PM.
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post #3 of 22 Old 10-27-2009, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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ok.. sounds like you're suggesting what i wanted to avoid.

namely,


i just thought this method wouldn't be strong enough to support the weight of this table.. but maybe i am wrong .

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post #4 of 22 Old 10-28-2009, 07:13 AM
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That's certainly one way

But not exactly what I was suggesting. Just take your foot detail and repeat it at the top using a 1" wider piece to allow for access to the screws.
The wood will expand/contract from the middle out/in so the center attachment screw can be tightened down. The outboard screws need to allow for the wood to move, so just slot them 1/4" both ways from the screw location across the width. Drill 2 holes cut between them and use a fender washer. (large washer with a small hole)
So you end up with 3 screws on either end of the table, the center ones tightened down and the outboard ones snug, but not tight. You can use clips and slots as shown, but this will work too. Just make sure the wood is kiln dried and acclimated to the room humidity before assembly and finishing. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo
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post #5 of 22 Old 10-28-2009, 09:11 AM
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$2800?...wait, I'm still coughing, but you know what? Good for that guy/gal who's commanding that price and getting it. It's the picnic table legs that are killing me.

As to the assembly...ditto what woodnthings mentioned. I usually plow out a .75" wide dado along the length of the brace at approximately a third of the way into the thickness of the stock, stopping just before the ends. And then again with a .25" straight bit dead center of the .75" one. The .25" one goes all the way through the thickness of the stock. I have also used a vinyl fender washer underneath the steel one to assure over time that the table top can always move freely even if the washer was to get a little funky (ie rust, corrosion) A little overkill but for a $1.00 it's not bad insurance.

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post #6 of 22 Old 10-28-2009, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knucklez View Post
i love this trestle table. sadly it sells for $2800 I might add a correction to this.......the asking price is $2800 and at that price I seriously doubt it sells. Tony B

i'm stumped though, on how to connect the table top to the ' X ' shaped base. I second what Woodnthings recommends on Post #2. Tony B
i have seen on the net these tabs or table top clips. I seriously doubt that this would work. I normally use these clips but they would not work in this application. Tony B
Knucklez
Sorry for writing on top of you, but sometimes in a multi-question post, it is easier for me to not lose my place.

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post #7 of 22 Old 10-29-2009, 12:47 PM
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Trestle Table

Unless I misunderstood -- you said this was a trestle table.

I built a trestle table and on mine the top is not attached.

The top is heavy enough that it doesn't need to be attached.

I have a cleat on the outside of where it rests on the leg assembly.

When I need to move it -- I remove the top and move the leg assembly and then replace the top.

A true trestle table should disassemble and reassemble easily.
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post #8 of 22 Old 10-29-2009, 06:27 PM
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This is a "trestle table"


Item# SAFTZR
Retail Price: $499.99
Ships free for only: $449.99
Size::
Availability: Usually ships in 1-2 weeks.
Source: http://www.nextag.com/trestle-table/stores-html
The original post is not "exactly a trestle table" if I'm correct. The top can not be removed without the legs falling over on the OP picture. A Traditional trestle table will stand alone if the top is removed, you are correct. So advice was given based on the photo shown. Sorry for any confusion. The movement issue remains unless the top is not mechanically fastened to the legs. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo

Last edited by woodnthings; 10-29-2009 at 07:40 PM.
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post #9 of 22 Old 11-02-2009, 07:57 AM
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its a picnic table!

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/table

to answer your question the top of the X will have a horizontal support silmilar to the one on the ground that attaches to the table top. simple elongated holes with screws would solve any movement problem


err after reading is exactly what woodnthings said lol
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post #10 of 22 Old 11-03-2009, 12:07 AM
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Is it just me, or does the picture look like a backyard "Picnic" table that the legs are sitting on a piece of stabilizing wood?

Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
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Remember that when we have the "BIG ONE" everything east of the Rockies falls into the ocean.
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post #11 of 22 Old 06-23-2010, 11:02 AM
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post #12 of 22 Old 06-24-2010, 04:59 PM
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In regards to movement on table tops: I built an end table last year and the people really liked it so they want another. It has been almost a year since I built it and they have not said anything about problems with the top or any other part. Should I assume that what I did worked okay?

I can post pics today or tomorrow and explain how the table was assembled. I would like to be sure about this before I build the other table or any other table for that matter.

Thanks.

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post #13 of 22 Old 06-24-2010, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrich View Post
Is it just me, or does the picture look like a backyard "Picnic" table that the legs are sitting on a piece of stabilizing wood?

That's so it doesn't sink in the mud!

Scott
OH, wait a minute ............Yep!.............That's what he said!

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post #14 of 22 Old 06-24-2010, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Gager View Post
its a picnic table!

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/table

to answer your question the top of the X will have a horizontal support silmilar to the one on the ground that attaches to the table top. simple elongated holes with screws would solve any movement problem


err after reading is exactly what woodnthings said lol

That would be the most reasonable way to secure the top. That design could be made into a more believable trestle table by installing a stretcher at the "X" point with a through wedged pegged M&T. A corresponding top stretcher would connect the two ends, and the top fastened along a centerline.






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post #15 of 22 Old 06-24-2010, 11:09 PM
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The top (Maple actual 1x4) was bread-boxed and pocket holes used to attach them. The top is screwed to a piece of pine plywood with the granite in between. The legs are attached to the plywood by counter-sunk lag screws. The outside trim is attached by finish nails to top of the table, not the plywood below. 1x4s attached with pocket holes between the legs. Is there something I should or could have done differently to protect against the top or any other part moving and causing a problem. As I said before, they have had the table almost a year and have not reported any problems.
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post #16 of 22 Old 06-25-2010, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
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Is there something I should or could have done differently to protect against the top or any other part moving and causing a problem.
That design will be fine.

Plywood is a very stable substrate.

It is only when you have a solid wood top you need to allow for movement.

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post #17 of 22 Old 06-28-2010, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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woodnthings, i can't visualize what you say'n... me dumb, you smart. can you draw a picture?

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post #18 of 22 Old 06-28-2010, 09:42 PM
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I can't say it any better than this

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Gager
its a picnic table!

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/table

to answer your question the top of the X will have a horizontal support silmilar to the one on the ground that attaches to the table top. simple elongated holes with screws would solve any movement problem


err after reading is exactly what woodnthings said lol


Cabinetman said:
That would be the most reasonable way to secure the top. That design could be made into a more believable trestle table by installing a stretcher at the "X" point with a through wedged pegged M&T. A corresponding top stretcher would connect the two ends, and the top fastened along a centerline.


I said this:
The wood will expand/contract from the middle out/in so the center attachment screw can be tightened down. The outboard screws need to allow for the wood to move, so just slot them 1/4" both ways from the screw location across the width. Drill 2 holes cut between them and use a fender washer. (large washer with a small hole)
So you end up with 3 screws on either end of the table, the center ones tightened down and the outboard ones snug, but not tight. You can use clips and slots as shown, but this will work too. Just make sure the wood is kiln dried and acclimated to the room humidity before assembly and finishing. bill
bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo

Last edited by woodnthings; 06-28-2010 at 09:44 PM.
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post #19 of 22 Old 07-09-2010, 05:46 PM
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My Table with 'x' leg

This is what mine looks like




I hope this helps.

I've got some free cool plans for tables and others if you are interested at woodworkingelite.com/bonus

Cheers
Tim
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post #20 of 22 Old 07-09-2010, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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thanks, i understand now. i will post pictures when i'm done.. but don't hold your breath, i have a lot of projects on the go right now

:)
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