pine tongue and groove toy box - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 12-06-2009, 04:40 AM Thread Starter
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pine tongue and groove toy box

I have pieces cut so they will be vertical when I'm done. I have a 1/2 in piece of plywood for the bottom. I need to know how to attach everything:) I'm thinking some 1x1 pieces for the inside corners and also horizontal inside across the front and back to attach the outside that way. I guess I need to know how to build the framework. I also want to put little coaster wheels on the bottom so need to know what kind of reinforcement I need on the bottom to screw them into. Want to have little spacers also so lid won't come down and hit precious little fingers. Ideas on hinges? Any help would be appreciated. I have until Christmas to make it.... Thanks so much!
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post #2 of 12 Old 12-06-2009, 04:53 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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Oh Brenda!

I think we can help. but without a little more info a lot of this will be an assumption. The T&G pieces will be vertical so there needs to be a backer on them to hold them together. probably 3/8" or 1/4" ply. You can glue the ply just inside leaving a gap for the side pieces of ply creating a rabbett in the corners. The same for the bottom leave a space of 1 1/4" up from the bottom with the ply. then locate the bottom 1/2" and a strip around the perimeter to hold it up. Now you have a box within a box of T&G. There are soft close lids for toy boxes.you won't need the spacers. bill
http://www.hardwaresource.com/Store_...l3.asp?Cat=345

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22046&
filter=toy%20box%20hinges

Just a nice looking toy box: http://www.artsinheaven.com/items/am...-ve-detail.htm

There is no charge for the free advice, but you get what you pay for ... just sayin'

Last edited by woodnthings; 12-06-2009 at 05:05 AM.
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post #3 of 12 Old 12-06-2009, 06:08 AM Thread Starter
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thanks, I was surfing and found a link for the hinges and ordered them just now

sounds simple enough. making it for my grandson with my leftovers from putting my floor in. he turned one in Oct so the pic was also awesome, another idea to do a little woodburning message inside:) So the inside horizontal pieces meet corner pieces and should I screw them in from the outside. You mentioned glue, what is strong enough for growing boy climbing in/out of box in addition to throwing toys in? I read your response quickly, I'll go back. I'm sure I'll have another question. Gotta get the visual clear in my head:)
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post #4 of 12 Old 12-06-2009, 06:15 AM Thread Starter
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went back, i don't want to make it too heavy though

the t&g pieces are cut to 20 in and the plywood bottom is 34 by 20. that's my start. thinking that's be a good size toy box. hate to sound dumb but what do you mean by "rabbet"- is that how the framing joins?
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post #5 of 12 Old 12-06-2009, 06:24 AM Thread Starter
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read a little more, can i make it sturdy enough without the whole plywood box within

hoping for more framework style , iguess. and the coaster wheels, thinking a triangle (inside box) with the strips of somekind around the bottom. idea there, no knowledge of how to put together i guess.
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post #6 of 12 Old 12-06-2009, 09:08 AM
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Joinery and construction terms glossary

Our member phinds as put together a wonderful collection of joinery and "framing" is you call it examples. A rabbett is under "R" on the list. here's the link: http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/person...ineryterms.htm
Personally I would not trust the T&G to be glued edge to edge for strength, so that's why I suggested the thin plywood "liner" and gluing the T&G to that. You could also "band it together at the top and bottom with some 1" x 2" strips and screw it from the back as well. The plywood bottom could rest on a 1" strip up from the bottom. There are several ways to do this. I thought the plywood liner would be the lightest and smoothest on the inside for the little one and his toys.
Rabbets can be made by sawing and removing material or by staggering 2 pieces of material to form a locking corner.
bill
BTW I don't know what type of power tools you have, a tablesaw would be a requirement for precise cuts on the plywood and for ripping the 1 x material. It could be done without one however and would require some safety planning if you only had a chop saw or hand held circular saw.

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Last edited by woodnthings; 12-06-2009 at 09:24 AM.
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post #7 of 12 Old 12-06-2009, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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awesome, lets get started

i have a compound miter saw and can use a table saw for the strips. i have a circular saw too. I like the idea of the strips being screwed onto the back of the t&g but like i said, i don't know how to put it together. i ordered a weighted safety hinge and the other 2 hinges to put the top on. i guess i need some more help with the framework, and thanks for the "dictionary" , i can use it for some of the words you guys come up with:)
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post #8 of 12 Old 12-06-2009, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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oh yeah, what glue is recommended? I have a tube

of liquid nails, will that work?
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post #9 of 12 Old 12-06-2009, 02:25 PM
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I would not use L-N's

First off you need to make a drawing showing the front, side and top in scale if you want, but real life size is better. A roll of brown paper from the packing dept will work if cardboard is not available. A "T" square would be nice and a flat surface to draw on. Since this is your first project I'm recommending the drawing phase so you can "picture" what the joints are going to do and look like. If further advanced then ignore this and "picture" the joints in your head. You should look at other box construction and determine how they are made.
Gotta' go now. bill

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post #10 of 12 Old 12-07-2009, 02:20 AM Thread Starter
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no liquid nails for gluing, recommendation?

you're right, I really need to think on paper with this and look at some others. It just seems more difficult than it really is I guess. Never built one before but this summer built a 10x12 deck with the help I got from DIY forum with different ideas. It turned out great! And, my pine t&g flooring is in the process of drying in second coat of poly. Thats how I got to this forum... a poly question and of course, the toy box. Point is, I can do but I need to be taught or shown. Believe me, a lot of people helped and I watched videos. I bought my first compound miter saw and belt sander:) Have Mike's table saw to use for awhile so if I do need to make the strips for the inside of the toy box, I can. And, I will be needing help when I have to use the miter saw for some molding angling or whatever its called. See, thats part of it, I don't know termanologies ie: remember the rabbet:) Thanks again for help!
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post #11 of 12 Old 12-07-2009, 02:33 AM Thread Starter
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end/edge miter cut from the glossary link

looks like what i think will work at the 4 outside corners of the box. Can I use the miter saw to get this cut. Probably not since the saw only drop down for small pieces. Can you get me on track with doing that part too? Thanks, added that link to favorites:)
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post #12 of 12 Old 12-07-2009, 08:06 PM
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I still recommend the plywood because

It will leave a smooth interior.
The T&G is not designed to be joined and used on a vertical surface, only laid flat on a horizontal, floor.
The joints are not tight enough to make a secure joint...JMO they might be?
A thin plywood will add to the total strength of the T&G as a laminated
structure. Just stagger the plywood at the corners to create a rabbett, no machining required.
You can "frame" it if you want, a lot more work a lot more cuts, and a "bumpy" interior, toys will hang up on the frame and get broken taking them in and out..... JMO
Lastly you have to but plywood for the bottom anyway..bill

There is no charge for the free advice, but you get what you pay for ... just sayin'

Last edited by woodnthings; 12-07-2009 at 08:08 PM.
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