woodnthings

A "touch over" 3/16th? Or a "touch less" than a 1/4"? I guess it depends on who's doin' the touchin' here you or me! bill

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Never stand directly in front of a horse or tablesaw that's running!
If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

cabinetman

When I use a 1/4" (or so) plywood panel that gets inserted in a groove in the R&S, It's cut 1/16" smaller than the overall groove dimension. IOW, it should have about 1/32" clearance so that the joints will close up. The plywood panel can be glued in and it will make the door more rigid. Make sure before clamping up that the door is square and that the R&S's are flat.

woodnthings

Moderator's editing techniques? This post has my name on it but..."last edited by LeoG...." You just tryin' to make me look good?

BTW I checked out 1/4" plywood at the HD today and they have it in all the above thicknesses including 1/4", but most is 5 mm and still labeled as 1/4"! So The answer seems to be get your stock and adjust your dado stack to suit...if the thickness is adequate for the application.
bill

__________________
Never stand directly in front of a horse or tablesaw that's running!
If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

cabinetman

It's a brave new world.

Leo G

OOPS !! I thought I was editing my post. Darn edit button works on everybodies posts.

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Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
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Leo G

1/4" plywood use to be 0.250" Then it shrunk to 7/32", now it is 5mm which is 0.197". 3/16=.1875 so it is about 9/1000" thicker than 3/16"

When you lose 1/16" on a 3/4" panel it isn't going to really affect the integrity of the panel. But when you lose 1/16" on a 1/4" panel that is 25% less thick. It becomes flimsy. I no longer use 1/4" (5mm) plywood because it is to flimsy for my standards. It does get used on occassion because 1/2" would be to thick for the application, specifically skins on cabinets. The backs of my cabinets and the bottoms of my drawers are now 1/2".

__________________
Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
TGIF just means two more working days until Monday http://lrgwood.com

Leo G

[quote=cabinetman;98581]It's a brave new world.


I fixed it. I don't want to be Big Brother or anything like that.






Or do I???

__________________
Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
TGIF just means two more working days until Monday http://lrgwood.com

woodnthings

Quote"OOPS !! I thought I was editing my post. Darn edit button works on everybodies posts."

A little power in the wrong hands could ........

.....to help me look good he realises he's made a horrible mistake!
Oh well, I'll bet that's the first time that ever happened...kinda' cool! Thanks anyway, Leo. bill

__________________
Never stand directly in front of a horse or tablesaw that's running!
If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

Leo G

I usually catch myself. What happened is I wanted to use the quote and hit my edit button. Just went on my merry way. Usually I catch it before I hit enter. Blew right by this one.

__________________
Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
TGIF just means two more working days until Monday http://lrgwood.com

audiokat

In regards to the dado stack, my table saw is a cheapo delta contractor saw. I'm not sure I trust it to handle the dado nor do I know it would even work. Would it be better to just do it on the router table?

Texas Sawduster

Most dado blade setups are 8" in dia.
Your table saw should run it fine. Just ease into the cut on a scrap piece of material that is similar in size as your door rail or stile to test it.
You could even use your standard saw blade if the teeth width are narrow enough to cut the groove for the 1/4" ply. Just adjust the fence.

rrich

In many of the "California Bungalows" of the 1940s and 1950s there was a door style used that was easy, cheap and could be either overlay or inset. These doors were mainly paint grade.

The door was made by first cutting a piece of 1/2" or 3/8" plywood to the exact size and shape needed for the opening. (Today I would use Baltic Birch for this.) Then a frame was glued to the plywood. Typically, 3/8" to 1/2" stock was used for the frame but 3/4" would be OK if the shelves in the cabinet allowed enough clearance for flush inset doors.

Round over the frame edges before gluing and miter the corners of the frames to install them. I've seen these doors painted solid or painted and wiped so that the grain shows. Both look rather good for paint grade doors. (Paint grade doesn't float my boat, but YMMV.)

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Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
Huntington Beach, California
Remember that when we have the "BIG ONE" everything east of the Rockies falls into the ocean.

audiokat

That's interesting Rich. Any picture examples by chance?

rrich

Unfortunately no pictures. I had never seen one until (While working at Rockler) somebody brought one in to replace hinges.

I was absolutely astounded when I saw it. As I examined it closely it became obvious how it was built and how easy it would be to build one.

__________________
Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
Huntington Beach, California
Remember that when we have the "BIG ONE" everything east of the Rockies falls into the ocean.

audiokat

Alright guys, it's coming along. I decided as a test drive to turn an old built in near my kitchen into a panty. That way I could try to make my mistakes before getting to the kitchen. Here's the pic of the doors I did. In order to hide some of crappy wood work I had to make the panels a lot bigger than the opening.

Anyone have any good sources for a Front face mounted hinge that's concealed and cheap?

Thanks for all the help so far.

Attached Thumbnails

   

woodnthings

I bought some at Home Depot the mount to the edge of the face frame, 10 for $20.00 with a 5/8" overlay. Don't know your other requirements, but there's a ton of hinges out there. bill
Check here: http://hardwaresource.com/

__________________
Never stand directly in front of a horse or tablesaw that's running!
If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.