New Cabinet door question - Woodworking Talk

audiokat · 10-09-2009, 06:42 PM

So I'm starting to design new doors for my old 50's cabinets. I'm going to do some very simple recessed panel doors because, one I want this to be easy and two, I want it to be very clean looking.

I wanted some opinions on whether or not to partially recess the doors in the boxes. The current doors (pictured) are partially recessed but I'm unsure about whether to do the same thing or set the doors directly on the box front. The new hinges will be hidden from sight.

The third pic is a good example of what I'm going for with the new doors.

Some opinions on this would be very helpful. Thanks

Steve

**Leo G** · 10-09-2009, 08:20 PM

I assume you are using a Euro hinge. As far as I know they don't make a 3/8" inset/overlay hinge. The shaker door style you have chosen would best look as an inset door.

BHOFM · 10-09-2009, 10:53 PM

My bathroom had plain ply doors. I cut the centers
out of them and used bead board paneling for the
insert. It matches the cabinets we bought.

I used a cordless trim saw to cut the centers out,
plunge cut with a guide board.

The "joint" in fake, just cut it with a razor knife.

edp · 10-09-2009, 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leo G

I assume you are using a Euro hinge. As far as I know they don't make a 3/8" inset/overlay hinge.

Rockler will sell you some but they are really expensive

The shaker door style you have chosen would best look as an inset door.

I agree with this.

Had you considered just reusing the hardware and hinges you already have. Nothing says "PERIOD" like the stuff you already have.

Ed

woodnthings · 10-10-2009, 12:59 AM

I've got a whole house full of Shaker style cabinets with overlay doors using Euro hinges. I like the "clean" look, no hinges showing and very little frame showing either. Inset doors are harder to do correctly and there can be no screw ups, or they won't have a constant gap. My choice is overlay with the adjustable euro hinge.

bill
Quoting the OP:
"....one I want this to be easy and two, I want it to be very clean looking."

cabinetman · 10-10-2009, 06:33 AM

If you just have to have a 3/8" lipped door, here's a hinge. They are a bit pricey.

GeorgeC · 10-10-2009, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leo G

I assume you are using a Euro hinge. As far as I know they don't make a 3/8" inset/overlay hinge. The shaker door style you have chosen would best look as an inset door.

I have used the Euro hinge on a partial inset door. They are somewhat more expensive but work well.

Personally I think that whether you use a full overlay, inset, partial inset, or whatever it is a matter of personal esthetics's. Or just what you are used to making. I usually like the partial inset with 1/2 inch lip. However, I am planning on a new bathroom vanity and am thinking that this time I will use an overlay.

G

G

**Leo G** · 10-10-2009, 12:15 PM

If he is trying to keep the old world look full overlay is not going to cut it.

audiokat · 10-10-2009, 01:25 PM

Wow what a response. This forum is great.

So I'm actually definitely not going for old world. I love the 50's but not country cottage kind, i like the clean, mod kind.

So a few things to further this discussion.

1. Yes definitely a euro hinge. I hate the hinges I have and donate them to habitat for humanity. I'm sure someone will put them to good use. I don't want to see the new hinges.
2. So I take it from most posts that doing partially inset would be a tough way to go on the hinge front right? Remember this is my first cabinet project.
3. BHOFM - that looks cool. Not exactly what I'm looking for very original the way you made it happen.
4. woodnthings - That is pretty much spot on what I'm looking for. Great job! My only fear is that I would have to reinvent the wheel to have that small of a gab between doors and drawers. You can see from the pic of my cabinets that there is a lot of space between everything. Thoughts?

So far it seems like full overlay is by bar the cheapest and easiest way to go. My only fear is will it look funny with so much gap in between doors and drawers while sticking at the same time sticking out .75". Unlike woodnthing setup i would have to really increase the size of everything to make that happen.

I want this to look great but also realize it's always a good idea to keep your first project simple.

**Leo G** · 10-10-2009, 04:48 PM

If you do a 3/4" overlay it would solve most of your problems. You can make the drawers over sized so that they hang down enough to make a 1/8" gap.

NKYDarrell · 10-10-2009, 07:32 PM

I like those cabinets Woodnthings!

cabinetman · 10-10-2009, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by audiokat

So far it seems like full overlay is by bar the cheapest and easiest way to go. My only fear is will it look funny with so much gap in between doors and drawers while sticking at the same time sticking out .75". Unlike woodnthing setup i would have to really increase the size of everything to make that happen.

Here is a Blum hinge that mounts on the front of the FF and allows the door to install anywhere on the FF. So, if you take good measurements, you can end up with 1/8" between doors...no problem. There are other brands that have this same type of hinge/plate, like Grass, Salice, Hettich.

audiokat · 10-11-2009, 12:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leo G

If you do a 3/4" overlay it would solve most of your problems. You can make the drawers over sized so that they hang down enough to make a 1/8" gap.

So you are thinking to keep all the door widths the same but just bring the bottom of the drawer face down to so it gets about 1/8" from the doors right? That seems like it would look good.

GeorgeC · 10-11-2009, 07:38 AM

"2. So I take it from most posts that doing partially inset would be a tough way to go on the hinge front right? Remember this is my first cabinet project."

I think you got the wrong impression. There is no problem with this approach from a degree of difficulty direction. The only problem is that the hinges cost more.

G

audiokat · 10-11-2009, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GeorgeC

"2. So I take it from most posts that doing partially inset would be a tough way to go on the hinge front right? Remember this is my first cabinet project."

I think you got the wrong impression. There is no problem with this approach from a degree of difficulty direction. The only problem is that the hinges cost more.

G

Makes sense and definitely is a big factor for this project.

audiokat · 10-11-2009, 05:52 PM

How deep should the grooves for panels be?

woodnthings · 10-11-2009, 10:27 PM

About 3/8" at the most by 1/4" wide for plywood but remember that 1/4" plywood is not 1/4" anymore, it's a touch less so you might want to use a dado set up rather than a groove cutting bit in the router table. Not too snug however since they should move a little, but not much using plywood. Solid panels or glue-ups will move more.

bill

**Leo G** · 10-11-2009, 10:41 PM

A touch less??? Most of the 1/4" ply I get is now 5mm. Just over 3/16"

audiokat · 10-13-2009, 11:42 AM

How much space do you guys usually give the panel? Let's say my inside dimensions for one of the doors are 41" x 11" So after the grooves in the stiles and rails that would be 41 3/4" x 11 3/4 . So how much smaller would you make the panel? 1/16 or 1/8?

Steve

**Leo G** · 10-13-2009, 12:05 PM

Real wood panel, start out at 1/16" per side for a 10" board. And another 1/16" for every 5" you add. So a 15" panel would have be at least 3/16" smaller than a tight fit. Plywood or MDF you could make it just a tad smaller, shouldn't move much. All my panels are 1/4" smaller than a tight fit. So I have a 1/8" gap all around. Why take a chance? Seal the endgrain and you will limit movement even more.