autoBrad

Hey Everyone,

I had posted a different thread related to this project about dado's with my router in a handheld operation.. Everyone gave me information...

Anyways, I just built this with the intention of putting veneer edgebanding on it, which I have never done, and installing drawers in the bottom half. I have never build anything like this and this design is basically a combination of things i have read, etc.. I did use traditional joinery techniques so far. I am trying to do this with good quality. I picked up a random orbital sander, and sanded it.

I'm adding pics. Basically I need to add drawers to the bottom half and am a little scared that not doing a face frame it don't look right. I'm putting this in a closet, I left my camera turn on, so once it charges, I'll upload a pic of it in place.

Do you guys think I could do full extension rails and just put a front on the drawers to cover the hardware and gap between the drawers and the cabinet when it's closed? Let me know what you guys think.

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autoBrad

Also, one of my concerns with going face frame less, is that betwen the drawer fronts, is that just a very small area?? Or would I need to put a piece of wood like across the front behind those?

Thanks Again

Brad

autoBrad

Oh yeah, here's a pic of it in place, obviously I have some work to make it fit right, etc.. Plus the wife now wants it centered in the closet so, as always things are changing..

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firehawkmph

Brad,
I would make a face frame for it. You've got the hard part done. Looks nice by the way. Do you have a pocket screw jig? If you do,, you could build that face frame in no time at all.
Mike Hawkins

rrbrown

I agree with Mike on the face frame. I use biscuits and have never used the pocket screws but everyone seems to love them and it would be the best way at this point anyway. The Face frame will finish it off and give you needed strength. It looks good so far though.

__________________
Semper Fi
Richard

Once A Marine Always A Marine.

Some choose to study history, but Marines choose to create history.

autoBrad

I ended up doing veneer edge banding. I think once I bolt it to the wall it would be pretty rigid and I'm actually surprised how rigid it is now. Also the wife is riding me to get it done, I don't have a biscuit jointer yet. Also, she wanted the wider drawers from not doing the face frame..

I picked up some full extension guides today, so I will start on drawers soon. I have to trim the edge banding still.

One challenging thing is figuring out how far into the corner to push it and how to cover the gap so it looks good.. Have yet to figure that out and if I cut the baseboard and then take off part of that chair rail and just return it into itself or what..

I put it in the center of the closet to see how it looked and it was goofy there was only like 18 inches left on each side of it so, back to one side it goes.

cabinetman

As for the drawer fronts, you could make them inset, if the openings are square, or overlay the fronts and not be concerned how much or how little gap there is in between.

As for scribing to the wall, one method is to take a strip of Formica (any plastic laminate will work) and cut it to fit from the wall to the inside edge of the cabinet. Cut it to fit the chair rail. Then veneer the strip. If you use the thin plastic laminate, it will only be 1/32" thick, and with an overlay drawer front it won't be that noticeable. Then you won't have to fool with the chair rail.

autoBrad

Thanks for the advice all. I got it bolted to the wall and fixed my gap issue. Thanks for the advice cabinet man. I haven't worked with laminant hardly at all. Seems you use it a fair amount.

I took the cabinet out, after measuring the gap in several spots. Then from the inside of the closet, screwed some wood so it sticks out correlating to my measurements. Put the cabinet back in, and it looked pretty good, noted some small adjustments.. took it out, made adjustments put the cabinet back and it fit good. Checked it about 8 times for square, it is square, I bolted it to the wall with a bracket from the top back of the cabinet so it will never be seen, obviously hitting a stud. Then along the top, I cut a piece of plywood to cover that gap, put it in, brad nailed it to the cabinet and to the drywall section above the cabinet, obviously from inside the closet. Now, that thing is pretty darn solid. I have been worried without a faceframe it would be wobbly, but now that I did that, and got it in there, it's pretty rigid. I need to take more pics..

Now to buy plywood and make drawers. I keep debating between inset or not. I bought full extension drawer guides.

Now I am curious though, If I had put a face frame on it, would the faceframe have stuck over to the inside of the cabinet? How would I have attached my drawer guides without using a darn rear bracket? By cutting strips of wood to put from the front to the back I would assume? Seems that would be a bunch more work, but obviously might be worth it when the cabinet isn't being bolted down..

Also, is there a really good book you guys can recommend that goes over cabinet making and the pros/cons of different designs, etc? I have been buying books. I bought the Tage Frid set and some other things. I am sticking to traditional woodworking techniques as much as I can(Obviously can tell from my joints).

Thanks Again

Brad

cabinetman

If you have just one or two drawers, running strips of wood as a filler is a good way to do it. For a bank of drawers (several stacked), if you screw the front of the slide to the FF (for an overlay drawer front), run a strip in the middle and the back vertically (on the carcass wall). That way you only need two strips per side.

If you do inset drawer fronts, you need three per side, as the front of the slides would be back of the FF.

I wouldn't recommend using only a front and rear connection for any type of slide. I've posted this reason before:

A front and back connection leaves most all the slide unsupported. The average user may not be as careful as you or I when opening and closing drawer slides done this way. During the sliding action there are side forces along the way, and some could be very strong, that will affect the hardware and may cause failure.

autoBrad

Cool. yeah, i would never do just a front and back, I 100% agree. The vertical piece going up is what I was looking for, that's a good idea. Thanks. I'll post some pics of how it is soon.

autoBrad

Here's some updated pics.. Since everyone has been helpful, figured I owed you guys these.

Bye the way, it's not crooked, just he camera angle..

Oh yeah and what do you think I should do for drawer fronts? I am debating what style.

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autoBrad

Also, the gap between the drawers is the same all the way up, 9/16ths, I don't know why it doesn't look that way, I think it's lighting and that I was standing up taking it looking down..