dining table plan - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

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post #21 of 34 Old 01-04-2017, 12:58 PM
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here's your leg brace Post 14



Table leg bracing

I even started a challenge as to how you might make them:
Leg Brace Alternative Method Challenge
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo
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post #22 of 34 Old 01-04-2017, 01:38 PM
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One other thing that was not mentioned is how to attach the breadboard end. I would not recommend attaching it to each board via pocket screws. Do a search on here for breadboard ends. There has been several discussions on the proper way to attach them. Heck, there was just someone on here a few weeks ago with a twisted up table that may have been caused by improper joinery.

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post #23 of 34 Old 01-05-2017, 02:10 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post


Table leg bracing

I even started a challenge as to how you might make them:
Leg Brace Alternative Method Challenge
that's a very cool corner brace. From a structural integrity aspect, is that going to be much much better than the metal brackets or do you just like doing projects out of all wood?

I think I'll attach the aprons to the legs with M&T 3/4 sided (open from the top so a giant dado cut) since I have dado blades and no easy tools for a full M&T.

the structural support will be a 2x4 trimmed for sharp edges (from down from a 2x10 S4S) which will slide into the dados. Then a 1x6 board will be the exterior of this, screwed together from the 2x4 outward to the 1x6 to hide screws.

Then a corner bracket of some sort metal or wood at all 4. Then the top mounted to the skirt with those sliding metal pieces in a thin dado along the skirt inside.

Since I need to assemble this inside the dining room, will I be able to just do two ends (say the long ends) glued in the mortises, then not glue the short ends? I'm curious about disassembly down the road.

And yes, I did look into using the mortised breadboard attachment. However, not sure how I'll do this without a machine for that.

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post #24 of 34 Old 01-05-2017, 10:03 AM
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that's a very cool corner brace. From a structural integrity aspect, is that going to be much much better than the metal brackets or do you just like doing projects out of all wood?

I think I'll attach the aprons to the legs with M&T 3/4 sided (open from the top so a giant dado cut) since I have dado blades and no easy tools for a full M&T.

the structural support will be a 2x4 trimmed for sharp edges (from down from a 2x10 S4S) which will slide into the dados. Then a 1x6 board will be the exterior of this, screwed together from the 2x4 outward to the 1x6 to hide screws.

Then a corner bracket of some sort metal or wood at all 4. Then the top mounted to the skirt with those sliding metal pieces in a thin dado along the skirt inside.

Since I need to assemble this inside the dining room, will I be able to just do two ends (say the long ends) glued in the mortises, then not glue the short ends? I'm curious about disassembly down the road.

And yes, I did look into using the mortised breadboard attachment. However, not sure how I'll do this without a machine for that.

Check out jayscustomcreations.com. Jay has a pretty indepth build of a very similar table. I understand most of us don't have all the tools he has but sometimes we are able to use what we have in new ways to achieve the results needed. He has two separate videos, one for the table and one for the breadboard.

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post #25 of 34 Old 01-23-2017, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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woodnthings, I like that corner brace and I think I'll do that if I can. I've been brainstorming for the past few days and wonder about these things:


1. For the sides, I'm using structural lumber for cost/strength, but want to put an outer 1x6 for the "decorative"skirt. Should my 2x be a 4 or 6"? I was thinking 2x6 now for more tenon to go into the leg, plus total glue adhesion from the 1x6 board whatever it may be (maple, oak, etc). Should glue be enough or should I also screw it with plugs to ensure bonding? Keeping in mind this skirt won't be going into the table leg's mortise, just the 2x material (or if it's beneficial, I can do both).


2. I was leaning away from the breadboard since it seemed complicated, but I got a joining book and am struck by some new mounting ideas, I've seen the link above for the M&T. That seems more involved than others I just discovered. I could get a dovetail router set then do those and slide the breadboard onto the edge. Not sure not strong that joint will be though in terms of supporting the breadboard's lever. Or I thought of pegs going through the entire breadboard into the longitudinal grain of the table top, glued in with tight fitting pegs. Another option was a "slip?" joint if I remember right, both ends have full dados then an accent piece slides in there and it's glued to both dados.
3. For my table legs, 3"x3" at the top, what's the MOST I can mortise into them before compromising strength? I saw in my book something about 25% of thickness for the walls of the mortise. For my M&Ts I was just going to stick the entire 2x6 in there as a tenon, so the mortise would be 2x6x1(depth) minus some width since it'll be planed . Is that too much material taken out?
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post #26 of 34 Old 01-24-2017, 01:17 AM Thread Starter
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I jotted these scribbles at work today,, trying to put my plans into action.
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post #27 of 34 Old 01-28-2017, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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ok I'm getting closer here. Found some really cool wood to use off Craigslist. It's forest fire destroyed pine that was eaten and stained by beetles. Got some for a barn door but also decided I wanted to use it for the tabletop. To save $$$ I'm no longer using pre-turned legs. I'll made the skirt and legs out of dimensional lumber (and one random length of maple I have as a support piece).

If I want 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 square legs, is it stronger to stack up 3 2x4s, glue them up, joint the surfaces, and trim to size or just get a 4x4 and joint the surfaces for flatness?
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post #28 of 34 Old 01-28-2017, 02:30 PM
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I would use metal bracing vs wood and there are many ways to attach the table top...
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post #29 of 34 Old 01-29-2017, 01:12 AM Thread Starter
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those metal brackets don't get rickety over time?
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post #30 of 34 Old 01-29-2017, 09:37 AM
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How so?
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post #31 of 34 Old 01-29-2017, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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WE have tables at our clinic that are joined like that in the corners. They're wobbly once they're old and abused.
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post #32 of 34 Old 01-29-2017, 06:01 PM
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I would have to see the design of the table to understand why. The tables we make are used in chilli's. No complaints yet...
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post #33 of 34 Old 01-29-2017, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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Huh ok. Those would be easier from a time standpoint over making the corner brackets. However I like the idea of not having any metal on the table aside from the table top skirt sliders. I have to think on this.

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post #34 of 34 Old 01-29-2017, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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Could also be the nature of our tables as being hopped onto and off of 20x a day by normal and overweight patients. Either way...

I will be doing an epoxy coat. If I epoxy both sides will I essentially be preserving the wood so much that no warping at all will occur?

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