woodnthings, I like that corner brace and I think I'll do that if I can. I've been brainstorming for the past few days and wonder about these things:
1. For the sides, I'm using structural lumber for cost/strength, but want to put an outer 1x6 for the "decorative"skirt. Should my 2x be a 4 or 6"? I was thinking 2x6 now for more tenon to go into the leg, plus total glue adhesion from the 1x6 board whatever it may be (maple, oak, etc). Should glue be enough or should I also screw it with plugs to ensure bonding? Keeping in mind this skirt won't be going into the table leg's mortise, just the 2x material (or if it's beneficial, I can do both).
2. I was leaning away from the breadboard since it seemed complicated, but I got a joining book and am struck by some new mounting ideas, I've seen the link above for the M&T. That seems more involved than others I just discovered. I could get a dovetail router set then do those and slide the breadboard onto the edge. Not sure not strong that joint will be though in terms of supporting the breadboard's lever. Or I thought of pegs going through the entire breadboard into the longitudinal grain of the table top, glued in with tight fitting pegs. Another option was a "slip?" joint if I remember right, both ends have full dados then an accent piece slides in there and it's glued to both dados.
3. For my table legs, 3"x3" at the top, what's the MOST I can mortise into them before compromising strength? I saw in my book something about 25% of thickness for the walls of the mortise. For my M&Ts I was just going to stick the entire 2x6 in there as a tenon, so the mortise would be 2x6x1(depth) minus some width since it'll be planed . Is that too much material taken out?