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Old 06-26-2009, 04:40 PM   #1
FDSolutionsllc
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Default Cube Tables

Good afternoon all. I'm looking for ideas on constructing the Cube Console Table attached to my post. Size is 60" W X 18" Deep X 30" H. It appears to me that all the connecting edges are mitered, and there are no visable fasteners. Has anyone ever constructed a table like this? If so, would you be willing to share your methods?

Thanks in advance,
Roger
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Old 07-01-2009, 06:47 PM   #2
Al B Cuttn Wud
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I would probably go with vaneer for something like this. This would allow you to use nails and you wouldn't have to thick wood with mitered angles. There's one suggestion for you.
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Old 07-11-2009, 05:44 PM   #3
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Maybe some heavy duty screws would be more than enough to do the job? But I'm not sure I'm still just a beginner myself.
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Old 07-11-2009, 09:25 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by FDSolutionsllc View Post
Good afternoon all. I'm looking for ideas on constructing the Cube Console Table attached to my post. Size is 60" W X 18" Deep X 30" H. It appears to me that all the connecting edges are mitered, and there are no visable fasteners. Has anyone ever constructed a table like this? If so, would you be willing to share your methods?
Thanks in advance,
Roger
Make 6 mitered frames, 2 ends, 2 sides, 1 top and 1 bottom. make the ends so that the assembled dimension equals the width you desire from the side. All adjoining edges must be beveled to assemble with minimal seams showing.
If I were better at Sketch Up, I would make a drawing, but not so far. I remember a post that shows what I mean I'll try to find it and edit it in. This isn't exactly what I stated, but very close. bill

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If this is the look he's shooting for, I think it might seem to be a tad more involved to him than just a couple of 45 whacks.

It's basically what phinds said, but it looks like this for, perhaps, a little better visualization.

BTW, DIYLover, all three pieces are identical. It really is almost as simple as phinds indicated.
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Old 07-11-2009, 11:55 PM   #5
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I wouldn't attempt it using the Willy T idea because there is almost nothing but end grain joints. It could be strengthened using splines but that gets to be a measuring and accuracy nightmare for a relative newbe.
I go along with Al B Cuttin Wood and use veneer.
I would make both the front and rear pieces , each out of 1 piece of plywood using only a table saw to cut perfectly straight and parallel cuts. Then I would cut all of the other pieces to the proper dimensions and rabbit in place. When assembling, use glue and nails or screws. When all is assembled, sand smooth and apply veneer.
This is the same process that I used when making parsons tables when they were somewhat in style. I have made hundreds of them so I am not guessing, I have actually done this.

To make the cut-out for the front and rear pieces, cut the rectangular pieces to the finished outside dimensions first. Then carefully measure the 'thickness' of the 'panels', set up your table saw for that size cut. raise your blade 1/2 way up and mark the actual start and stop cutting points on a piece of tape on your fence. Now lower your blade below the table top, turn on your saw and slowly raise your blade approx. 1/2 way up while cutting through the plywood. Carefully move your workpiece forward to the next stopping point. Shut off saw and WAIT WAIT WAIT until you blade comes to a COMPLETE STOP. Then lift off your workpiece and do the the same to the opposite side. Now, without changing settings, do the same thing to the other workpiece.
When you are finished doing that, re-set the blade and markings on your fence for the other two cuts on the boards following the same procedure.
When you are done, because the blade is round, one face of the plywood will have a longer cut than the other at the intersecting cuts. Dont worry about this. This is better than an incomplete cut that has to hand finished.
Next, Rabbit the front and rear pieces and measure and calculate the sizes for the tops, bottoms, ends, etc. Cut these pieces to size and glue, screw or nail and then assemble. When you are done, make sure all of the edges are nice and crisp. Remember the part where I said dont worry about the saw cuts? Just fill them in with automobile bondo and sand smooth. Also use the bondo on any edges of the plywood that may have split out. Bondo is great stuff. If mixed properly it can be sanded in literally 2 minutes. It is used as a filler and not for strength.
When all is sanded and looks pretty good - apply veneer.
BTY, your hollow plywood box should be remarkably strong. I would advise against MDF because of weight, although there is no reason that you couldn't use it successfully.

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Old 07-12-2009, 07:12 AM   #6
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So far, this thread is a treatise on understanding details. As in reading architectural plans we learn to read the written specifications and the dimensions entered on scale drawings, and between the two there should be no questions. This way an accurate estimate of construction data along with a materials list can be determined. What's important here is that answers were offered without complete details in hand.

What I'm referring to is that the image attached to the post does not represent an accurate image of what the actual dimensions are. The image looks squatty. In actuality, the table is 5' long, 18" wide and 30" high. It's the height of a dining room table. For that height, it would have to be structural enough to withstand torsional and racking forces.

Next, the finish was never discussed. What materials are to be used? Is it a painted finish, or is it a woodgrain finish? If a woodgrain finish is specified, how is the grain and seams to be configured? This might answer questions whether it would be better to use a paintable substrate, hardwood plywood, or a veneer.

In answering these questions I would be able to use the information to decide what to use and how to fabricate. I think we need more information (at least I do).






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Old 07-12-2009, 07:31 PM   #7
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definately, a project like this would require mortise and tenon!!!
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Old 07-12-2009, 08:34 PM   #8
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Default What you are showing in a version of a Parson's table

It is definitely not a "cube table" since the the dimensions form a rectangle. Mortise and tenons would be appropriate, but if you want a mitered look from all sides that is slightly more complicated. Veneer might be the easier method if you have those skills. The idea of 6 mitered frames made from solid 3/4" stock with bevels on all the intersecting edges, would be simple to do. Glued in blocks from the back side would make the unit substantial if the frames were 3/4 thick and would fill out the dimensions for the legs and stretchers. It would increase the weight substantially however. Just my thoughts, bill
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