wood362

I'm planning to build a built-in bookcase with cabinets at the base into an 8'x8' recess. The 3 cabinets will be something like 30" high and deeper than the shelves. Another 3 corresponding columns of adjustable shelves that reach the ceiling would sit on top of the cabinets.

I've looked at many free designs on the net and I want to check with the experienced cabinet builders here about the soundness of my design.

I'm trying to keep the design as simple and cheap as possible and have decided to construct 6 boxes. Three boxes are for the shelves and 3 are for the cabinets. I have a basic table saw but I'm not interested in ripping 4'x8' sheets of material. I want to use my 7 1/4" circular saw with a homemade T-square for cross-cuts.

Home Depot sells 5/8" x 12" x 96" particle board with the peg holes already drilled. I don't feel like drilling a thousand holes either. For the shelves I would use 5/8" particle board as well. I noticed that a lot of plans call for 3/4" which I did not see at HD.

A lot of plans on the web call for rabbets and dadoes. I would like to use rabbets on the tops and bottoms of the side pieces, but leave all of the shelves otherwise adjustable.

All boxes would be trimmed with 1"x2" MDF. To assemble everything I would use strips of wood between the sides of the boxes and screw them together. The strips of wood would make the 1"x2" trim fit properly. The trim would be attached with finishing nails.

I'm not really sure how to make the doors of the cabinets. Maybe I should buy them.

The plans often say to assemble the trim into one frame and then attach it. Is that advisable in the case of this large project?

According to the design the shelves will be spanning about 30". I am concerned that they will sag and also that the side pieces may bow outward. I understand that I can add skirts to each shelf which is more work I'd like to avoid. What is your best advice?

ecw

in my experience making six boxes will give the illusion of a shelf at the bottom which is not adjustable. not a real big deal. in my opinion/experience i can't skimp on materials & labor & still get what i want. there are however time/money savers, like to attach the top to the bottom you could construct the top of only -back,sides&top , drill holes in the top of the base & bottom of the upper & use dowels & glue to attach & align / or splines. there are many questions relevant to building a cabinet that define the design. 1)is this for keeps ? 1)how much weight will potentially be on the shelves? 3)what level of quality are we trying to achevieve? . i believe the shelves will sag in time, maybe quickly maybe slowly. what material will the shelves be made of? a full (4sided) skirt on plywood(3/4) can hold from sag. if water ever touches particle board it's finished. my recomendation would be to consider the life expectancy of this cabinet system & build it accordingly. it is a true pleasure in my life to build a cabinet well & know that it will last. if the work is not something that you're interested in maybe you could hire some help.? either way good luck. eric

wood362

I'm basically in a basement apartment so I don't care to spend lots of money, but I will still put in the effort to make it look professional. I imagined a plain white finish like in many of the photos I've seen on the web. I like the fact that MDF does not have a grain, like door trim for example. I'm not experienced at finishing wood so I would not use oak veneered plywood.

So if I use 3/4" instead of the 5/8" plywood, would this design be considered good? Sagging shelves would be unacceptable to me. If I'm going to go to this much trouble for shelving it had better be solid.

I did not even look at the plywood at HD. What would be the cheapest option assuming it would be painted white? Is it birch plywood I'm looking for? I live near Toronto Canada. Can I use the plywood for the shelves and the particle board for the sides (so I don't have to drill all those holes)?

I might consider using hardwood trim if it helps.