what to use on a cedar dish rack - Woodworking Talk

activa · 08-22-2009, 10:40 PM

I built a white cedar dish drying rack. I'd like to put something on it to keep it looking natural (the rest of the cabinets are natural maple). The rack will get wet a lot and have dishes on them so whatever I use needs to be non-toxic.

What's the best thing to use?

Jim Tank · 08-24-2009, 07:53 AM

On another post, Varathane was suggested and I did some research. The product is part of Rustoleum. They make a sprayable exterior waterbased finish and is availiable at places that sell Rustoleum. It had to be special ordered from my ACE hardware, but looks like a great product and would work for drying rack. I have a chestnut cutting board that I sand lightly every 4 months or so and soak the mineral oil to. That would work for you too, but the cedar would get very dark after a couple times. Or you could use the old standby and soak it in used motor oil overnight, then sand and wash.

**Daren** · 08-24-2009, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Tank

Or you could use the old standby and soak it in used motor oil overnight, then sand and wash.

Gene Howe · 08-24-2009, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Tank

On another post, Varathane was suggested and I did some research. The product is part of Rustoleum. They make a sprayable exterior waterbased finish and is availiable at places that sell Rustoleum. It had to be special ordered from my ACE hardware, but looks like a great product and would work for drying rack. I have a chestnut cutting board that I sand lightly every 4 months or so and soak the mineral oil to. That would work for you too, but the cedar would get very dark after a couple times. Or you could use the old standby and soak it in used motor oil overnight, then sand and wash.

I'd go for the Varathane but, as to the motor oil.......??????

activa · 08-25-2009, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gene Howe

I'd go for the Varathane but, as to the motor oil.......??????

Hmmm... 10W40? Maybe not...

I did a bit more research online, and decided to go with linseed oil, since I already had some, and it seemed to be the safest/best option (interestingly I found this article http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/finish3.html that says basically no company would release a product that was unsafe once it had dried).

The linseed oil I put on was raw, which is supposed to take 3-4 days to dry, but the rack was dry to the touch in an hour or so. And it looks good. Thanks for the input.

Leatherneck · 08-26-2009, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daren

X2

Dejure · 09-08-2009, 04:59 AM

If it was "lindseed" oil, it was probably not raw. Raw lindseed is flax seed oil. After it is boiled (actually, hot air bubbled through it) dryers are added. Both these things speed drying.

Walnut cooking oil is also a hardening oil. However, my favorit oil is tung oil (China oil). The raw oil can be thinned and the thinner will evaporate off. This allows it to penetrate deeply. Then a final, unthinned coat (always wipe off excess, after it's had time to soak in) can be put on. Like your lindseed oil, this finish will flex with the wood, which will, undoubtedly, be sitting in water it will be absorbing (thus the need for flexing). It can be added over the lindseed too.

Lindseed is said to be more likely to act as food for mildew, but that shouldn't be a problem, since you can easily address this problem as it occurs.

shivi · 09-11-2009, 12:15 AM

Hello.

thank you for sharing your info here.
i am agree with the views of Activa

kitchen · 10-24-2009, 06:42 AM

thanks for the nice info by you..

keep on posting here.

GeorgeC · 10-24-2009, 06:44 AM

"Or you could use the old standby and soak it in used motor oil overnight, then sand and wash. "

Contains toxins!!!

G

Brian_Hinther · 10-24-2009, 11:39 PM

I would consider Behlen RockHard varnish or perhaps Waterlox. They're both harder than polyurethane so should be more resistant to scratches, and would still be water repellent. Just a thought.

ScottyB · 10-27-2009, 07:22 AM

Wouldn't mineral oil be a fair choice for this project? Granted it isn't a hard finish that will last the test of time, but how many of these finishes are going to stand up over time if this is used on a daily basis? If the finish isn't going to last, isn't something that can be easily maintained and is food safe be in order?

I am not claiming to have the answers, I am learning as well and asking honest questions. If this is hijacking the thread, I apologize.

Dejure · 10-28-2009, 03:44 AM

[quote=ScottyB;100316]Wouldn't mineral oil be a fair choice for this project? Granted it isn't a hard finish that will last the test of time, but how many of these finishes are going to stand up over time if this is used on a daily basis? If the finish isn't going to last, isn't something that can be easily maintained and is food safe be in order?

Scotty, you're in the game. There is no bullet proof finish. The main issues are how long a finish will last and how easy it will be to maintain. For that reason, your mineral oil suggestion is an excellent one for those willing to care for their investment. It is an excellent, if not the best finish, for bread boards and butcher blocks, though some use hardening oils, like tung oil and walnut cooking oil (never things like olive oil, or other oils that can go rancid).

For those who don't mind a lot of work refinishing, or who would rather dispose of the item and start anew, a varnish type finish would be fine. Of course, the type of varnish will determine how long it lasts. Cheap interior varnishes probably aren't going to hold up well to these conditions. On the other hand, cheap exterior varnishes contain things that prohibit their use indoors, or on food surfaces, such as biocides.

Waterlox was suggested. It appears to be a top notch finish. But so is what some drum up in their own shops. For example, oil added to varnish (e.g., oil based polyurethane) results in a softer, but more flexible surface. That is how marine finishes tolerate the harsh conditions to which they are subjected. The additional oil results in what is called a long oil finish. Long oil finishes flex mwith shifts in wood caused by moisture/humidity and temperature changes.

ScottyB · 10-28-2009, 06:32 AM

[quote=Dejure;100430]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottyB

Wouldn't mineral oil be a fair choice for this project? Granted it isn't a hard finish that will last the test of time, but how many of these finishes are going to stand up over time if this is used on a daily basis? If the finish isn't going to last, isn't something that can be easily maintained and is food safe be in order?

Scotty, you're in the game. There is no bullet proof finish. The main issues are how long a finish will last and how easy it will be to maintain. For that reason, your mineral oil suggestion is an excellent one for those willing to care for their investment. It is an excellent, if not the best finish, for bread boards and butcher blocks, though some use hardening oils, like tung oil and walnut cooking oil (never things like olive oil, or other oils that can go rancid).

For those who don't mind a lot of work refinishing, or who would rather dispose of the item and start anew, a varnish type finish would be fine. Of course, the type of varnish will determine how long it lasts. Cheap interior varnishes probably aren't going to hold up well to these conditions. On the other hand, cheap exterior varnishes contain things that prohibit their use indoors, or on food surfaces, such as biocides.

Waterlox was suggested. It appears to be a top notch finish. But so is what some drum up in their own shops. For example, oil added to varnish (e.g., oil based polyurethane) results in a softer, but more flexible surface. That is how marine finishes tolerate the harsh conditions to which they are subjected. The additional oil results in what is called a long oil finish. Long oil finishes flex mwith shifts in wood caused by moisture/humidity and temperature changes.

Thank you for the explanation. I am learning in steps here. Right now I am working mostly on getting the wood to do what I want it to do. I've found that if I try to follow everything here I suffer information overload. This thread caught my attention as a jump off point for another idea. For the most part I stay out of finishing at this point but this one got me curious.