Brent Luck

Yeah, this is my first time using computer for this so I have to figure out it to. I wish I could some how save you in here and be able to type with you again.

Leo G

I am a moderator here so you should be able to find me easy enough. You can always click on my name and send me a PM. You might have to get your post count up to 15 before that function becomes active.

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Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
TGIF just means two more working days until Monday http://lrgwood.com

edp

Whatever you do, stay away from the steel wool. In the days prior to man made products, it was clearly the go to product for smooth finishes. However, the slightest exposure to water or humidity has the tendency to announce the presence of strands that were left behind. They show up as rust. Use the 3M scotch Brite pads for any rubbing that needs to be finer than sandpaper.

Ed

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cabinetman

Lacquer can be the easiest coating to apply, and get predictable results. Spraying 4x8 sheets vertical will be easier to spray horizontal. That means it's 4' high and 8' long (on edge). That way you aren't stretching to make your paths. With it horizontal, you can make your passes at a more consistent graduation without straining to keep them equal.

Next is the gun. It would be easier to show you than tell you. But, You can get beautiful results with either a $15 flea market special, or a turbine HVLP. The only difference I get is less overspray. I'm not going to confuse you with tip sizes or cup #'s or whatever mils to look for.

If you flood your workpiece with light, when you spray you watch the glare off your wet line to see the coverage. Testing prior to spraying to get a pattern that is not too wide or too narrow. You will see that a wide pattern is more difficult to get a continuous wet line than a narrow one. The trick is to get a pass that stays wet as you progress across the sheet. Spraying vertical will also keep you from laying down too much on any pass.

As for the lacquer, some of the brands say "ready to spray" some can be thinned 50%. You can get lacquer thinner in slow, medium and fast. Using lacquer thinner as a retarder will not work. Thinning with lacquer thinner will thin the lacquer and make it dry faster. Retarder will slow the drying process. It also helps with flow out .

Your streaking could be just your overlap lines. Experience will help you get a more even finish. Nothing replaces doing it.

woodnthings

I can see why the OP is spraying 4 x 8 's vertically, since when laid flat, say on saw horses, you've got an 8' run down the length, or a 4' wide path across. If it were me I'd go across, and try to keep the gun perpendicular to the surface at all times, by bending my wrist further as I made my pass. Spraying down the 8' run might be easier to reach, but would require a little "2 step" to make it all the way down. Neither is ideal, but you have no other choices....except propping up the panel on the 8' run, say 15" or so to bring the rear of the panel just a little closer. You'd have to watch out for runs, being on a slight angle this way, but maybe you'd get a more even application. Any other thoughts? bill

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If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.