gudd

Hello Everyone, I just got into woodworking in the last year or so and im trying to finish a box I've made from walnut and has a spalted maple top. I really have no idea how to finish the maple part (or the whole thing for that matter). the box will hold poker chips so it will get some use, so I'm looking for something that will show the maple well and also be durable. am I outta luck? any help will be appreciated. thanks

Wood4Fun

Personally, I would oil it first (I use pure Tung oil), then varnish it. If it were not to get handled all the time, I would do both at the same time thinned with mineral spirits and wiped on. Even with the first option, I'd probably thin the varnish just a little and wipe it on rather than brush... but, that is me. I don't like thick heavy looking finishes, where as some people do.

I am new to woodworking and finishing has been one of the most intimidating aspects for me. I bought this book, as recommended by multiple people either on this forum, or a couple others I have been to
http://www.amazon.com/UNDERSTANDING-...8193399&sr=8-2

This really helped me better understand finishes and how they are used, applied, manipulated, etc. He obviously put a lot of work into his research and spends a lot of effort debunking myths. I highly recommend this to anyone looking to expend their knowledge on the materials themselves

p.s. Minwax Polyurethane sold at most stores is varnish

ahh, heck, here is what I would do in a little more detail....

wipe slightly thinned tung oil into the piece, let is sit for a few minutes, then wipe off all the excess. check it every couple hours to wipe any leakage out of the joints.

24 hours later, lightly rub it with 0000 steel wool. do step one second time.

24 hours later, lightly rub with 0000 steel wool and apply a 20% thinned (with spirits) varnish (Minwax poly)
24 hours later, wool it and second coat it
repeat the last two steps one or two more times. basically you are building up the finish at this point. the more times you do it, the thicker it will get.

as a final step, I might consider doing a wax like carnuba or regular paste wax.

gudd

Thanks for the advice! the better this turns out, the more likely the wife will let me buy more tools. Its like a win win .

Wood4Fun

I hear you there bud. When it comes to finish, everyone has different opinions.

going back to the book suggestion, one thing that is nice is he presents the pro's and con's of each choice, so it makes it easier to think about what you like in that frame of reference instead of having to make choices based on what everyone else likes.

I don't think anyone here will disagree with me though that some kind of penetrating oil will make your top look its best without hiding it. There are things like Danish oil that are a blend of oils and varnish, and that might do just fine for you. But, you did mention a lot of handling, so you will want to think about putting something a little more durable on top of the oil

old toymaker

I agree with the paste wax as the last coat. Apply with 0000 steel wool and buff out when it hazes over. The wax makes it super smooth and even protects the finish under it. Dust regularly and reapply wax every couple of years or as needed your finish should last for several years. Hint only apply as much wax as you are willing to buff off. A little goes a long ways. I learned that the hard way.

PTownSubbie

Keeping the wife happy so that you can buy more tools is always a plus!!

I get my tools because she wants me to build something for her....

Hhaines

For smaller items....bowls,boxes, etc. .....I really like lacquer........I start with 2 coats of sanding sealer, then very light coats of spray lacquer up to four or five coats.......The sanding sealer creates a golden amber color......you can use clear lacquer without the sealer if you sand to 300 grit or finer .......I like the clear gloss personally, but it comes in semigloss too.......Spray cans do fine, but for bigger stuff I use a gun and a compressor.......be careful around any ignition source........