non-yellowing clear coats - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

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post #1 of 26 Old 03-12-2010, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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non-yellowing clear coats

I've been using Minwax Polycrylic to finish game boards, but I'm looking to see if there is something better out there. Up to this point, I've been brushing it on using foam brushes. I generally apply 7-10 coats, which takes a decent amount of time when you're trying to finish multiple sets at a time.

I'm planning to move to a spray system, and I'm trying to find something that may work better and require less coats to increase efficiencies.

Any suggestions for other products to use? I'll attach a picture of a finished set. Some sets are stained and painted, others are just painted, and others are painted/stained with vinyl decals applied and then polyed over.

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post #2 of 26 Old 03-12-2010, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J2K66 View Post
I've been using Minwax Polycrylic to finish game boards, but I'm looking to see if there is something better out there. Up to this point, I've been brushing it on using foam brushes. I generally apply 7-10 coats, which takes a decent amount of time when you're trying to finish multiple sets at a time.

I'm planning to move to a spray system, and I'm trying to find something that may work better and require less coats to increase efficiencies.

Any suggestions for other products to use? I'll attach a picture of a finished set. Some sets are stained and painted, others are just painted, and others are painted/stained with vinyl decals applied and then polyed over.

I make jewelry box's like a couple hunderd so far I use lacquer A sanding sealer and than 2 or 3 coat's This can be done in one day The sealer dry probly in 15 to 20 min than first coat of satin or hi gloss or what finish spray dry in a couple hrs If some ruff spots sand lightley 400 is what i use enough to get the small bumps ? Than another coat let it dry over nite and do another coat if you want I use M.L.Campbel pre cat in the gal and use their lacquer thinner also I use HVLP sprayer with 20 lbs of air Hardley and over spray at all I spray inforunt of a 36" exhoust fan on low to get the fuem's out I have 16X20 shop So lot's of room I live in florida so the weather may be better here ? I wouldn't use any poly for my stuff it take's to much time del
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post #3 of 26 Old 03-12-2010, 05:27 PM
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For a quick turn around time you can't beat a lacquer based product, if lacquer is not practicle for you, Varathane's water based spar varnish is sprayable with good results, but does not match drying time of lacquer or conversion varnish from Sherwin Williams (my favorite).
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post #4 of 26 Old 03-12-2010, 06:12 PM
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A waterbased polyurethane will stay clear, and works out best when sprayed, and need no sealer. Or another clear finish would be a CAB lacquer "water white".






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post #5 of 26 Old 03-12-2010, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Tank View Post
For a quick turn around time you can't beat a lacquer based product, if lacquer is not practicle for you, Varathane's water based spar varnish is sprayable with good results, but does not match drying time of lacquer or conversion varnish from Sherwin Williams (my favorite).
sherwin williams Makes M.L.Campbel products I am told
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post #6 of 26 Old 03-12-2010, 06:56 PM
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whats a game board?
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post #7 of 26 Old 03-12-2010, 07:36 PM
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lacquer

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Originally Posted by del schisler View Post
sherwin williams Makes M.L.Campbel products I am told
Thats not true. I've been using ML cambells water borne coatings for a few months now and Im impressed. On open grained woods like oak you'll need to spray more coats to get the proper finish. I am currently testing a shellac sealer coat first. That seemed to work better. It also brightens the wood up some. When in doubt spray a CAB lacquer like cabinetman said. Its my GO-TO finish. I only spray ML cambell products and would highly recommend them. JMO

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post #8 of 26 Old 03-12-2010, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J2K66 View Post
I've been using Minwax Polycrylic to finish game boards, but I'm looking to see if there is something better out there. Up to this point, I've been brushing it on using foam brushes. I generally apply 7-10 coats, which takes a decent amount of time when you're trying to finish multiple sets at a time.

I'm planning to move to a spray system, and I'm trying to find something that may work better and require less coats to increase efficiencies.

Any suggestions for other products to use? I'll attach a picture of a finished set. Some sets are stained and painted, others are just painted, and others are painted/stained with vinyl decals applied and then polyed over.


I would suggest a water based poly too, but before you do that I would suggest sanding those down to the wood and installing some nice maize and blue block M's.
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post #9 of 26 Old 03-13-2010, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the suggestions so far. The Minwax Polycrylic that I've been using is a water based poly, so I'm familiar with that product. I haven't sprayed it yet, but will give it a shot in the near future... when I figure out what to buy for spray gun equipment there too :)

I think I'll give the CAB Lacquer a try too. Do you think that the CAB Lacquer will go on thicker/cover better than the water based poly?

...and to pabloj13, go Badgers!!!
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post #10 of 26 Old 03-13-2010, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by del schisler View Post
sherwin williams Makes M.L.Campbel products I am told
Sherwin Williams owns M.L. Campbell. Only M.L. Campbell makes M.L. Campbell products.
Just because one company owns another company does not mean the products are the same. I believe SW also owns Minwax. SW is a fairly decent product, Minwax is at the bottom of the list.

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Retired woodworker, amongst other things, and now full time cruising the waterways on my boat.
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post #11 of 26 Old 03-14-2010, 08:34 AM
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Sherwin Williams owns M.L. Campbell. Only M.L. Campbell makes M.L. Campbell products.
Just because one company owns another company does not mean the products are the same. I believe SW also owns Minwax. SW is a fairly decent product, Minwax is at the bottom of the list.
that is what i ment own's and doesn't make the product Thank's for putting the right word in their del
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post #12 of 26 Old 03-14-2010, 06:26 PM
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Shirley Williams is starting to bring some of the ML Campbell line into the stores under an SW label, and conversely, you can get Minwax stain colors in Woodsong II base now.

I would steer clear of CAB lacquers because of cost, there are straight acrylics from Gemini and MLC that do a great job and are 1/3 the cost.

It ain't the years honey, it's the mileage
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post #13 of 26 Old 03-15-2010, 12:23 AM
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Try SW water white lacquer.
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post #14 of 26 Old 03-24-2010, 09:19 AM
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Hi,

I have just completed a treasure box made of black walnut in a woodworking class . I'm new to woodworking (60 yrs old,retired and putting little shop together )rand want to make more boxes so I have a few questions.

1. What would you recommend I use for the finish on my box, my teacher recommends I use lacquer.
2. What type of wood do you mostly use for your boxes?
3. I used finger joints on my box, what do you use?
4. Where can I get plans for boxes?

Thanks
Greg
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post #15 of 26 Old 03-24-2010, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J2K66 View Post
Thanks for the suggestions so far. The Minwax Polycrylic that I've been using is a water based poly, so I'm familiar with that product. I haven't sprayed it yet, but will give it a shot in the near future... when I figure out what to buy for spray gun equipment there too :)

I think I'll give the CAB Lacquer a try too. Do you think that the CAB Lacquer will go on thicker/cover better than the water based poly?

...and to pabloj13, go Badgers!!!
I'm down with the Badgers. I spent several summers marching drum and bugle corps in Madison. It's a cool town. Plus we can all agree that wood-working projects designed for tailgate drinking games are a win.
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post #16 of 26 Old 05-14-2015, 11:09 PM
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Smile

I was told today by the local SW dealer/manager that THEY DO NOT OWN L M CAMPBELL WOOD FINISHES.

SW has their own commercial division, in fact they gave me the info of the local commercial SW location, and tried to talk me into using their products over L M CAMPBELL.

That's what he claims,

Dale in Indy
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post #17 of 26 Old 05-14-2015, 11:27 PM
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I was told today by the local SW dealer/manager that THEY DO NOT OWN L M CAMPBELL WOOD FINISHES.

SW has their own commercial division, in fact they gave me the info of the local commercial SW location, and tried to talk me into using their products over L M CAMPBELL.

That's what he claims,

Dale in Indy
Maybe he's not up to speed. Our Randy claims SW recently purchased LM Campbell.
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post #18 of 26 Old 05-15-2015, 12:33 AM
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Smile

It has been my experience that when a company owns another company that DOESN'T have their name on it, you will find in the fine print at the bottom a statement for example. M L CAMPBELL is a SW owned company.

Needless to say there are exceptions, but this manager also said he had been to tons of SW commercial meetings, and never has M L ownership by SW been mentioned.

No dig beal,

Dale in Indy
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post #19 of 26 Old 05-15-2015, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smithbrother View Post
It has been my experience that when a company owns another company that DOESN'T have their name on it, you will find in the fine print at the bottom a statement for example. M L CAMPBELL is a SW owned company.

Needless to say there are exceptions, but this manager also said he had been to tons of SW commercial meetings, and never has M L ownership by SW been mentioned.

No dig beal,

Dale in Indy
I don't know, still it's pretty common knowledge that Minwax is owned by Sherwin Williams and there is nothing on the stain cans about Sherwin Williams.
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post #20 of 26 Old 05-15-2015, 09:20 AM
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Here is the Sherwin Williams terms of use on the ML Campbell website. I think that makes it pretty clear that they own the company.

https://www.mlcampbell.com/terms/index.jsp
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